Mine is currently set on the King ECU (I copied the settings as they were set in the old Zavoli ECU) as:
Changeover type: In acceleration
Rev Threshold: 1200
Overlapping time: 0s (should I change this on mine?? was set at 0s on the old ECU and it seems to switch OK?)
Reducer temp for changeover: 35C (though I think I've since tweaked this to 40C as it lets the engine get a little bit warmer, and it seemed to not mess with the fuel trims as much once it had warmed up that little bit more
Change over delay: 30s
I found with the changeover temp on mine at 30C it would change over when the engine was still running pretty cold, and it didn't seem as happy as if I manually left it on petrol for a bit longer (basically until the temp gauge moved above the blue line) and then switched - so hence upped it to 35, and I think upped it again to 40. It's still running on gas less than a mile from home most of the time..
Yes 3/8" UNC
I've just looked back and found the order from when I bought mine - and got 3/8" UNC x 3" Part threaded bolts, and some big M10 x 32 x 2.5mm flat washers.
They were the ones that I used to mount my engine block on the stand and we used when swapping the engines over on my RR...
V8 Tuner for me. £122 Inc vat was the cheapest I could find.
Didn't come with the ARP lube though, by can get a small sachet of that on ebay for a few ££
Sloth and I didn't have enough too much trouble.. but then I guess it's easier with 2 so one can hold the crank steady and spin it when needed.. on your own, I can imagine it's a pain!
The wires for the ABS ECU from the diagnostic port go through the kick panel connectors in the RH footwell (that also link to the engine ECU).
I personally would have waited the bit extra and saved up for a Nanocom - but hopefully the Lynx Evo will be better than the original Lynx. I had a look at one that another owner let me have a go with, and after having a play with that, showed him the nanocom, and he ended up ditching the Lynx, and buying a Nanocom based on about 10 minutes of me showing him the features.
You'll have to let us know what it works out like though.
Connection - as others have said, check the OBD pins in the socket and the footwell connectors, and fix up any bits of corrosion etc that you find.
It also depends on the version of HEVAC controller, as some of them move the blend motors straight away, and some almost 'boot up' before trying to move the motors.
Also from the test rig I set up on my bench, the controller doesn't seem to move the motors to the ends of the travel on startup, but on some versions, it moves them a little bit either way, and other versions it will only move them if the position they are supposed to be in for current temp settings etc is different than where they currently are.
The blend motors are easy enough to test with are multimeter and a 9v battery to make sure the feedback pots are behaving properly.
mace wrote:
Marty already knows, but I guess I'm eating my hat re the Audi heater matrix mod. After changing the o rings a couple of times and the joint still weeping, I decided that, given the age of the matrix and the fact that it's probably full of junk even after trying to flush it both ways, I'd replace it, and went the Audi route.
It is possible to do this mod without cutting or otherwise modifying the HEVAC unit itself, by splitting it in half, and getting the new heater core in place through the entry point. The tight bit is the plastic divider that sits sandwiched between the two halves of the unit, but with it in pieces, you can get the end of the heater core past that.
The most difficult part of the job is properly sealing the edges of the heater core, especially around the hole in the edge of the HEVAC unit. The long edges of the hole are easy enough, but the short edges are extremely tight in comparison and it was difficult to get the neoprene in the gap without rolling itself up.
Anyhow now it's in, it's not going anywhere. I've put two hoses through the bulkhead ready for connection back to the coolant circuit.
There isn't a lot in it, and that adjustment to the heater box can be done in a couple of minutes with a sharp chisel, and not needing to split the box (though splitting it can be a good idea to check/free up flaps, regrease everything etc)...
I use some really thick foam now (as opposed to the thin stuff in the box) which gives a pretty good seal... I was put onto it by a member on another forum - and I'll link to it here for anyone else who wants some... it also does a pretty good job of stuffing the mammoth gap on the bottom of the rear face ducts!
Fingers crossed you don't get any drips now.. I used jubilee style clamps on mine and had to go back in once to nip them up - nowdays I use the Mikalor style constant tension screw clamps, which seem better again..
Yes, that duct is the feed into the HEVAC system from the blower fan (the housing of which is just on the LH side of your last pic).
That duct connects to the AC evaporator, as all the air fed into the HEVAC system goes through the AC system first, and then into the heater box where it's blended warm/cold, and directed to the correct vents.
So in short, yes, it is possible for AC water to get into the bottom end of that duct.
Have a look at the AC drains from the top.
They are a bit of a concertina'd rubber idea that come off the evaporator tray and then go down through the transmission tunnel and end up where you've found them.
However, it is possible (I've seen it a couple of times) for the concertina part of the drain tube to get pinched up, so they might seal up, and just be letting drips through..
With that trim off, and if you take out the footwell vent (triangular thing that clips in - bottom/right ish in the background of your picture) then you can do a bit of a visual on the drain tubes themselves - it could also be possible that the outlet from the evaporator is blocked, rather than the drain tube (again because of the kink that sometimes occurs in the drain, residual silt etc could build up in the bottom of the tray and block the outlet...
True that there are other Land Rover magazines, but most of them seem to shy away about posting anything P38 wise aswell!
I wonder if any of the Land Rover magazines would be interested in a bunch of people keeping P38's on the road and giving them some love, rather than pulling them apart because they can't be bothered to fix anything...
And and great on getting it in your Magazine!! At least somewhere is giving the P38 a spot (even if it is only on the odd occasion - it's better than nothing, and a good start
I'm not sure if it's also worth more a look, but there is also a Premier Inn at North Swindon - which is fairly close to where I'm based.
I've never stayed there, but there is also a Harvester fairly nearby, and a couple of decent pubs around me, which means I'd be able to join in a couple of beverages... And could then convoy down the A419 the next morning back to the workshop!
Headlinings... I envisaged a production line style of work aswell. I am going to attempt to get up to the workshop before that weekend and strip the headlinings out of my 2 other P38s - they are both sunroof versions too. I also have a 3rd spare headlining card up there.
So my thought was, if there are 3 to start on, then a couple of people can start stripping those, cleaning them off etc and then going on to re-trimming those.
Whilst that's happening a couple of other people can be starting to remove headlining cards from other vehicles, ready for stripping, and then re-trimming.
With any luck, by the time the rest of the headlining cards are removed from the vehicles, there should hopefully be the first one re-trimmed and finished and the people who were doing the removals can then start on refitting the finished ones.
The sunroof covers can be removed without dropping the sunroof tray, so those who are removing/replacing headlinings can also work on getting those out and back in again if waiting on a re-trimmed one to be finished.
Either that or we can all get stuck in and get all the bits out, and strip the old cloth off, and do all of that first - and then have a few people just working on retrimming the cards, and then once there are a stack of finished ones, we all jump back on refitting them all.
I've had headlinings out before, so I'm happy to work with one or 2 on the physical removing/replacing of the headlinings to the vehicles.
Fluids - I did a service on mine awhile ago, so it's all sorted at the moment, but happy to go through and help look at yours Morat, if the Duchess is up for being the guinea pig for teaching...
I am running out of storage capacity (or might have actually run out!) for left over oil etc - so going to need to sort something out for that. I need to see about disposing of used oil at the tip in Swindon - and hope they don't get tetchy if I turn up with a 20L container to empty out!
I'm happy to go over basic servicing with people...
Also happy with to do a bit of an electrics 101 for people who are interested - basics like multimeter reading.
Checking continuity of circuits etc, since most of the P38 inputs work on low current ground signals, which aren't testable with a power light, test bulb etc. Voltage testing, removing pins from connectors for testing etc.
I'm heading off at the end of this week for a fortnight on holiday.
My plan was to get in touch with definite numbers to suppliers once I have returned, and then once a price is agreed on, and everyone is happy, placing the order, so that it will be delivered before the 8th/9th July to my place, and I can then ferry it up to the workshop.
So as far as I'm concerned - the 14th June is the cutoff date for people wanting headlining material/adhesive kits.
As far as the original colour goes - I haven't had any definite word from anyone who wants OEM colour as possible as to the exact colour they want for this. The 2 original ones that I'm getting, I'd be happy with either the 'Oatmeal', or 'Oyster Grey' (from Martrim) or the 'Suede Beige' or 'Cashmere' from the eBay supplier, as they are all close enough for me.
The original Land Rover colour was called 'Mist' or I've seen it in some places as 'Mist Grey'. Hence why I've mentioned slightly different shades above as examples.
I first posted about colours a couple of months ago now, and still nothing definite - so if I don't have a definite from someone (preferrably Orangebean or Morat - as they've mentioned they want as close as possible to original) by the 14th June, then I will pick a colour that I think looks 'close enough' for my preference for my 2 restoration project P38's (probably Oatmeal from Martrim, or Cashmere from eBay supplier, depending on which is best cost overall - again unless people give me a consensus as to which is the preferred supplier).
Other details:
Also, parts wise - if anyone is after any of the reconditioned parts I usually offer on my website, then let me know... namely, door latches, window switchpacks, HEVAC controllers (or screen repair connectors), Black ABS ECU's, EAS compressors etc... then providing I have the required parts in stock, then I will give a 10% discount on normal prices, and where possible/required, will get parts fitted whilst at Summer Camp.
For anyone on the forum who won't be at summer camp, due to distance, other commitments etc, and is after parts I work on, then drop me a message with what you are after, and when I have everything and it's available in my webshop, I'll send you a 10% discount code to use on checkout.
Marty
If you come in the next couple of weeks it'll be perfect... I'm away out of the country on holiday!!
If they are showing as intermittent, then it could just be loose connections, or as things are warming up and expanding a bit, it's causing strange things to happen, or the bits of moisture from winter are now drying out...
Passenger airbag is the one in the dash.. Left/Right are the ones in the seats.
If the fault has been logged even once, it will log as intermittent if it's not there again on the next power up.
The passenger airbag connector in the dash can be got to (if you wanted to disconnect/reconnect/give a squeeze by removing the screws for the glovebox (don't even think you need to do the bolts) and pulling it all forwards. From memory, you can then get to the airbag connector.
Marty
Test the latch microswitch aswell, just to be sure....
In all the latches I've built, I've had one failure, and it was due to a wire rubbing/bad connection on a solder joint - so all the latches now get heatshrink on the wiring to make sure they are held sturdy... but that doesn't mean to say in the couple of hundred microswitches I've ordered over the years, one hasn't gone faulty... If it is the microswitch, then I'll make sure it's sorted for you.
Marty
I keep forgetting you have the poverty spec.
I'm pretty sure the later ones without amplifiers have a 'little black box' crossover unit in the doors (well, it appears so from a picture Sloth send me of the wiring of his parent's one)
Looks lovely....
I saw this in the other 'similar items' area on eBay:
And nearly had a moment when I saw the price.... and then I saw the mileage.... where on earth has it been hiding for the last 16 years to only have that much on the clock!! Unless it's been used so much, it's reached the end and started again! Which would probably make it either the P38 with the most miles over, or the least...
Either way.... if it sells, then it's somewhat promising for my ones when I finally get them restored!
I think the woofer in the stock system get somewhat of a filtered output... I haven't actually measured the frequency response from each channel on the amps, but the door amps (and DSP on the later systems) have different outputs for the woofer and mid range speakers, which to me says that they are internally filtered in the amp.
The tweeter has it's capacitor in line to filter the mid frequency range out, as it isn't driven of a separate channel aswell, but off the mid/hi output.
In fact, I had a door amp set up on the work bench, testing an unbalanced - balanced line level converter, and I connected up a woofer and a mid speaker to the 2 amp outputs and the woofer definitely doesn't get a full range to it.
So there isn't an external crossover in the vehicle wiring, but I am assuming that the door amps (or DSP amp) filters the frequency bands for each speaker being driven and then amplifies them separately.
There are a couple of adjustment screws which are reachable with the glovebox door open.
As a side not on the sealing up - I usually undo all the screws holding that plastic pollen filter holder in, and remove that whole unit. You can then fold up the rubber seal that is under the pollen filter housing, and clean out any crud under there.
I reassembled mine with silicone under the rubber seal aswell, which then gets clamped to the bodywork when the plastic housing is refitted.
Hopefully you've got it sealed up though - with the glove box in, but the footwell trim removed still, you can reach up behind the glove box and feel the blower housing/recirculation flap, and see if there's any moisture there too.
If you are getting a drop in the tank pressure overnight, then could be internal leak of the NRV in the VB which is letting the air pressure bleed down.
It is also worth checking however the O-rings on the tank air connection. I chased a bit of a leak down to where the air line goes into the tank, so replaced the O-rings. I have a feeling that even with new rings, I still got a slight leak when I wiggled the pipe (trimmed/chamfered the end too), and I ended up stuffing an extra O-ring in the tank connection and that sorted it.