I bought Allmakes steel rockers, and had some Britpart rocker shafts from years ago (surely they couldn't cock those up... right?...wrong!). Found the rocker shafts were a bit oversize, and wouldn't fit through the pedestals.

I ended up buying Bearmach shafts from LR Direct, and between that, original pedestals, springs etc, and the new rocker arms - it all went together a dream.

Or washing up liquid and some sugar also does pretty much the same job as swarfega... Haven't heard the coffee trick before... must try that!

It could also be that the wires are back to front. As they are Chroma and Luma, from memory if they are back to front, then you get no colour information
EDIT - Forget that - I'm thinking of S-video, which is 2 wires... Composite runs it all down one wire with the other as signal ground.

As Gilbertd says it could be the wrong format.

the microswitch in the H gate is the high/low switch to tell the transfer case ECU to shift range.

If you were getting Neutral on the dash etc but it not shifting from high to low, then it could be the neutral output from the BECM to the transfer case ECU - but if you don't have it on the dash, then who knows. As Gilbertd says - if you were missing a feed on that gear, then chances are it would show a different gear on the dash.

Definitely a strange one.

Yes, the 12V regulator or something simple like that will work. You could also use a couple of resistors to make a voltage divider - but either way will give the required voltage.

If the device has the 3.5mm jack, then should be easy to connect - if not, then you'll have to try the pins on the rear connector - but either way, it's a standard composite video signal that it is expecting - so you should be able to get something out of it!

You can try those pins for sure.

I'm not sure if they are they input pins, or a further video output, say to rear screens.

But worth trying video signal to that pin, and video ground to pin 9.

I need to have a look on my laptop again and translate the page to make sure the selector pin is happy with 12v or whether you need to drop it to 5v max, but that's easy enough to do if needed.

I don't think the above linked converter would work anyway - it's proven to work the the later Land Rover fitted sat nav screen which uses SOG (sync on green) for the video signal.

Taking a quick look at the specs for your screen however, the navigation side of things uses a RGBS system, RGB with separate Sync wire) so you could either a) get a converter to RGBS - OR it looks like it already should have a 3.5mm jack connector for an external VCR (as it would have been in those days!) - but going by the signal format, it looks like a standard composite video feed.

To get it to work, you would need to get/make a cable to feed audio and video into a 3.5mm plug, from whatever your source is going to be, and then obviously get the power/ground pins connected up. It also looks like you need to connect Pin 12 to tell it to turn on in VCR mode - which is easy enough, the spec shows anything over 3.5V will do that - so hooking it up to an ignition switched supply will do it, and then turn the screen on/off when the key is turned on/off in the vehicle.

I'll have a look in a bit... I'm an AV technician by trade, so should e be able to make sense of the diagram

Have you got a picture of the installed nav screen, as it sounds different to the factory unit installed in later P38s... the layer ones have a LR part number on the screen rather than VDO Dayton.

Further to this - don't know if it was ever sorted - but I've found a few times that Rear Left sensor short to another sensor is actually a failure in the ECU. I've got one on the bench with this failure in it, and I think I've found the cause. I have components to try and repair it, and if it's successful, then hope to add that to my list of parts that I offer for repair.

If this was the ECU, do you still have the old one? I'm looking for faulty ones to try and repair, so I can eventually offer exchange units like I do with other P38 items...

Yes, no separate inline fuel filter on a Thor petrol - it's just a filter screen built into the pump itself.

No toes trodden on! it's useful to keep an accurate tally!

1) Marty - 2 x Original, 1 x Black (all with Sunroof)
2) Smiler - 1 x Original (with Sunroof)
3) Morat - 1 x Original (with Sunroof)
4) Orangebean- 1x Original Lightstone (with sunroof)

The drum should have a big philips head screw in it, like the brake discs... but chances are if it's been off at any point before, then the head would have been chewed and unlikely it was replaced! A couple of propshaft nuts make for a good stopper though!

I'm in for 3 headlinings...
1x Black
2x Closest to original.

I think Sloth was looking at getting one in the normal trim colour. If you're after one and have funds approval ;-) , then that puts us at 5.

I think Morat was wanting to do his and, Orangebean was wanting one for the Vogue SE (can't remember if he was doing his other one) so a tentative total of 7 so far. I've probably missed one or 2 - I need to go back and look at the other page when it was first mentioned!

A quick reply, as I've just got in from playing with lots of wires on the BECM tester I'm building!

Headlining - I've inquired to a couple of places that do the headlining material/adhesive kits, One gave me rough prices (on one of the previous pages of this thread) and the other said to get back to them with a number of kits etc and they'd then quote.

Colours - I think Orangebean was looking at getting samples from Martrim as he wants to get as close as possible to the original colour for his restoration.
I'm going for black for my RR, but was going to get the same as whatever OB goes for, for my other 2 RR's as they're restorations aswell, and don't want anything too wacky!

Headlining orders. I am (in theory) happy to do the bulk order once we know definite numbers, colours, prices etc and have a final figure from whichever supplier we use.

Dates... I think the 8th/9th July are the current aim.

Last year we all just brought a hand/boot full of tools, some food that could be BBQ'd (Morat was kind enough to be our Chef!) for lunch (or whatever you wanted to eat if you didn't want BBQ!) and something to drink. Oh, and the RR...

I think that's about it...

If you have any other questions, then ask away!

Marty

Just be aware... if you take the rear prop shaft off (and your VC isn't seized) then the hand brake WON'T work...

The hand brake drum is on the rear prop shaft before the flange, so if that's removed - then the front wheels can turn through the slip in the VC. Even if it's in Park - as the VC comes after the gearbox and all of that!

Just something to keep in mind if you have to park on a slope!

I've heard of the amps failing (I have one here on m bench that I'm aiming to see if I can find the fault) but it isn't a common occurance.

It is more likely to be the head unit - possibly even just some dry joints somewhere - if all 4 doors have the same, rather than all 4 amps failing in exactly the same way - I think I've seen 2 faulty amps in the last 4 or 5 years...

Marty

If you're seeing 26mpg on the dash, then you're either towing it, or I would think it's running stupidly lean.

I've had all sorts of rough running and things when I've had issues with MAF, O2 sensors (On my Thor) and also with the LPG setup being a long way out that it then messes with the petrol trims so much they end up maxed out in one direction or the other and have given me really rough running/misfiring etc.

Can't comment on the gearbox - mine has a couple of harsh shifts in it, but I'm pretty sure it's had a hard life before I bought it.. a replacement Ashcroft box is on the horizon - when I can afford it, and have the time to fit it!

I can't really understand why there's another thread and discussion on this now?!? I asked these questions about stud torques in my engine rebuild thread and it was discussed there...

I mentioned in my thread that V8 tuner (who I got the studs from) recommended studs hand tight (I just 'nipped' them the tiniest amount with an allen key to make sure they were seated home), and then the nuts done up to 70lb/ft, done up in 3 stages, with a rest period of 20-30minutes between stages.

Mark, YOU yourself said in my thread that "70lb/ft sounds like a good number to go for" I was taking the advice from the collective wisdom of the forum, as I'd never built an engine before... but now you're contradicting that and questioning a) ARP and their updated instructions, b) V8 tuner who told me 70lb/ft when I bought the studs, and c) yourself who agreed with it in my thread... but when it comes to your engine, it "might be a bit too tight, 65lb/ft is a good number"

Incidentally my engine seems to be running just fine at 70lb/ft..

With the amount of advice you input into my thread, I thought you were an expert at engines and these things, but it seems like when it comes to your own one there's indecision and second guessing at every turn.

If the blue one has been sitting around for awhile over the winter, then could it have been a load of condensation inside the engine which has mixed up with everything and created your look of more serious problems?

The early ones have a moulded socket on the latch, the version 2 (FQJ103220) had a loom and a 6 + 1 connector. The later ones which you'll have being a 2001 has a loom, and a single grey 8 way connector - of which 7 pins are used.

The switches are moulded all as one block, with the wiring coming out of the moulding - so if you are going to replace the block with one of the sets I sent Gilbertd, then you will have to solder/heatshrink in the loom.

Alternatively, I have a completely refurbished latch of the style you need on the shelf - however I'm heading away this afternoon for work, and not back home until Monday evening, so wouldn't be able to send it until next Tuesday.