That is one of the later subwoofer units, with the monster sized amplifier bolted to the back of the speakers. What has probably happened previously is the subwoofer has failed, and someone has bought that one as a replacement (as it has the twin woofer speakers) and the amp bolted to it, then realised the connection is different and transplanted the proper amp into the woofer box.

Whilst the amps all have the same E26640 label on them, there are differences between the front/rear/subwoofer versions.

If you have the later amp/sub arrangement like that, and you have a DSP option on the head unit that makes it sound better, then you are in the lucky minority of P38 owners who have the later Premium (DSP) sound systems that still actually work..

Gilbertd wrote:

Marty, I'd have asked them to skim the heads while they were off just so you can be sure you have a nice smooth surface that you can guarantee is perfectly flat too. I know my local engine machining man groans whenever anyone walks in with LR V8 heads as they have to be fitted on the machine at an angle. Most heads have a parallel top and bottom face so are easy to bolt down whereas ours have to have an adapter fitted to hold them at the correct angle for skimming. I've watched him do it and it takes longer to get the heads bolted down at the correct angle than it odes to do the actual skim.

Tony, if all they are doing is the liners and cam bearings, you best bet would be to strip the engine block completely. If you leave the crankshaft and dowels in place it's more work for them to remove and refit them. In saying that, if you intend using your original pistons (with new rings presumably), it might be better if it goes to them with the pistons so they can bore each liner to suit the piston. It might be worth asking them to replace the core plugs too while they have it, then you'll have virtually a brand new block to start with.

The heads were skimmed... I am guessing that they didn't skim them further as it would have put them out of spec... As I mention, they came highly recommended and have built up their own Rover V8 engines for racing and all sorts from what I gather - so I am guessing that if they were happy with them, then it must be OK... they've been pressure tested after they were skimmed, so it obviously isn't affecting the actual top of the cylinder where the valves are - so fingers crossed it's OK when it's bolted into the engine!

OB - the washer solution that I've got the front cover (well the bottom of it anyway) in is just the Clarke stuff from Machine Mart. I bought it when I got the washer for doing the door latch parts. Again, talking with the guys at the engineering shop, they were saying soaking in diesel is a good way of cleaning parts, and a wire brush in a drill/dremel to get into the nooks and crannies.

So, depending on what the front cover comes out looking like when I get home (assuming it hasn't been dissolved away by the eco friendly washing solution) then I might have to get a can of diesel and a tub to put it in and then dunk it in. I'm tempted to do that for the rocker covers, as they look pretty horrific aswell - inside and out...

Then it will be a case of finding a nice paint to color them all with... I'm toying with the idea of painting the sump, front cover, and rocker covers - but haven't decided what would look nice... do I go black to match everything else, or a nice metallic bronze? Or AA yellow to match my brake calipers... not that you can see the calipers under the brake dust and mud...

Now safely out in Amsterdam for work tomorrow morning... here until the 14th, and then off to Cannes for a few days for some more exhibition magic... then back home, and I can hopefully get properly stuck into ordering engine parts, bolt and gasket sets, and an engine stand to mount the new short engine to when it arrives...

I still have a couple of decisions to make... the most important being - do I get the new engine delivered to home, or to the workshop... in some ways working on it at home would be easier, but then I'd have to lift it somehow into the car, when it's nearly assembled... whereas at the workshop, I'll have the crane already there and I can hoist it off the palette, straight onto the engine stand. The down side to that, is I have to head up to the workshop, whenever I want to work on the engine - which requires more planning regarding parts etc - and also more miles on the current leaky engine...

Thoughts?

Ferryman - my original plan was to get the old engine out of my '00 restoration P38 and then strip it and send the block off to be relinered, and then rebuild it myself from scratch. The problem is, that I was planning on doing that a bit further down the line as I have the old engine from the '98 in the garage which is first in line to be relinered... everything kinda got put on hold when I saw the leaky plugs on mine - as without mine on the road and running, I can't get to the others to work on them - so it's my priority, and it worked out easier in the long run to get a short engine and go from there. The good thing will be that as mine comes apart, I can then systematically recondition the parts that aren't going back as part of the core to V8 Developments, to have them ready to fit to a relinered block for the '00 at some point.... there is a plan there... somewhere... honest...

Marty

Well, Thought I'd post a thread for a change with the progress and pictures of my engine rebuild... I'm sure i'll need help and advice along the way!

It all started when I was under it replacing the radius arms with a pair that I pressed new bushes into... and noticed a nice wet stain amongst the dried on mud and dirt... and the bad news is that it's definitely coming from core plugs...

So whilst a bit frustrated, as it means my plans for engine rebuilding are now having to be brought forward, and not being able to refurb the engine from my '00 to swap in, it is also a chance to do the full engine rebuild that I've been planning/hoping to do for the last few years!

So, I have currently ordered a new short engine from V8 developments - which is coming with a new top hat linered block, crank, pistons etc. also comes with front crank pulley and flywheel, all balanced and ready to go.

I've also managed to source a replacement front cover, lower inlet manifold and sump.
I had previously acquired some parts a few years ago, so already have new oil pump gears, Piper Torquemax cam, sprockets and timing chain and come other general bits and pieces including second hand set of heads and rocker covers.

I'm currently in the process of ordering all the other bits I need and sundry items, bolts, gaskets etc.
I have also been starting to clean other parts ready for assembly.

I picked up the heads from the engineering shop today aswell.. feel a bit like I've paid over the odds for them to be done - but they did have to clean them, relap all the valves, skim them, and pressure test them. Next time, I'll look at doing the cleaning and valve lapping myself to save on labour cost!

They look good though - the only worry I have is that there is some pitting in the face of one of the heads. The machine shop didn't mention anything about it, and they do a lot of Rover V8 heads, and work building engines themselves. So my thought process is that if they haven't mentioned it, then there is probably nothing to worry about... especially as it's in the fairly meaty part of the head, and when there's a gasket squished in there. I am also planning of fitting ARP head studs, rather than just bolts.

I'm now heading away for work for a couple of weeks, so left the front cover soaking in a bucket of what was warm water, and cleaning solution, so hopefully will help break up the rest of the baked on gunge that's in there.

When I get back home, the next installment will commence... cleaning the lower inlet manifold, drilling and tapping it for LPG, and probably painting the rocker covers and the upper inlet manifold.

More to post as and when I get some more done!

Marty

There were talks that the earlier Diesel models have an alternator with a voltage output of 13.8V, but the later ones then have a voltage of 14.1V
I'm not sure about the petrol models, but the resident know-it-all on LZ says the 'Thor' alternators were set at 14.5V (I don't think so as I see 14.1V at my battery when the engine is running!) so are fine with charging Calcium batteries.

I didn't have an issue with my '01, and a MF31-750 (well, it was a MF31-750 under the bonnet - now a 1000) AND a MF31-1000 in the boot. The MF31-750 lasted just over 4 years.

I think most car batteries these days have some calcium in them as it reduces bubbling and water usage, which is how they are all branded as 'Maintenance Free'. There is a LOT of debate, and contradicting information out on the www about it all. All I can suggest is that you check what voltage you are seeing at the battery terminals when charging, and if it's above 14V, then the battery will be getting a decent charge. Even if you need 14.4V minimum to 'fully' charge a calcium battery - it will be 'close enough' I think to keep the battery going for a few years. It was in my case, anyway.

If you are that worried about it, then you could always fit a battery conditioner to it when it's parked up to give it the extra boost to fully charge.

I am not at all surprised that you pulled a 2 pin one out of the front...

My front one had never been out before (I could tell by how much swearing was involved getting the hubs apart... far more than the steering box!) and is a very late production model from what I gather (Jan 2001) and it only had a 2 pin in the front... A lot of the naysayers who stuck to the line that 4 pin was shipped in the front of the later ones couldn't really believe it - but it was definitely 2 pin...

I do have a 4 pin rear diff in the front of mine, and I honestly don't notice any more noise from it than before I had fitted it. Most of the whine in mine is from the transmission. I struck out, as I got a very low mileage 4pin diff which was going to go in the back, and then I was going to sort the front out at some point when i had time - but then I won an auction for a never-used 4 pin rear diff, so chucked that in the back in place of the worn 4pin that was there, and put the low mileage 4 pin one in the front...

I need to give the diff oils a change at some point, so will see what the state of the fluid is that comes out of the front... if there aren't massive amounts of shavings or chunks of metal, then I'm going to assume that even though it is running in reverse the whole time, it's not actually wearing any quicker... if it is wearing quicker... well, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it!

It was nice to get a load of things off your list Morat!! Sorry we didn't get a chance to dig into the heater box/blend motor - but it will be easier to do for sure if it comes out to swap the heater core over, that's for sure.

Let me know if you want me to book a time at some point to do the heater matrix - or if you can get your guy locally to do it, then I am happy to supply the parts if you wish!

Not good on your new noise - hopefully it is just a CV or something easy(ish) like that... If it's any consolation... I'm putting the deposit down with V8 Developments today for my new short engine... Also dropped the spare set of heads I have off for pressure testing and machining at a local engineering place that does rover bits too... combined with some of the other parts I'm starting to look at - I should be ready to start assembling an engine come the middle of October when I next get back from work!

Mmmm... I was more wondering if they'll just get them copied and just undercut me... admittedly, that's what I've effectively done to the french guys who were selling them... but 20 Euro for a rubber connector is a bit steep in my book!

Oh well... I've still got 450 of them left... haha...

Just sold a couple of my HEVAC screen connectors on eBay...

A bit surprised when I saw that the place I was sending them appears to be the guy that runs Britcar...

Looks like I'll update mine soon too then!

I emailed V8 Developments last week about engines - I'm going to be giving them a call later this week to put in an order for a short 4.6 engine to then finish building up to swap into mine, since it's got leaking core plugs ;(

I am also planning on having a chat with them about the other engines I have and am planning on getting work done on aswell - see if they will do me a deal if I keep sending them bits to do...

Though also just up the road from me in Coventry is Chesman Engineering, and they have quoted me £850 to reliner a block for me - and that includes the top hat liners.

That reminds me... do you have my address Morat? I can't remember if I sent it over already... Will be 'working from home' this weekend as I've got all my electronics stuff here and bench to do the heated seats etc.

Wow... I just read the changelog of the V1.32 for Nanocom, and there IS mention in there about putting the Wabco D sensor speed inputs into the correct boxes... I hope that extends to the voltages too, since the wheel speed readings aren't a lot of use ABS shuts off talking diagnostically after 5mph :(

Morat wrote:

Thanks, I'll check that out. I wonder if it fixes the "we'll tell you than an ABS sensor is broken but not the correct one" problem? :)

I doubt it... I put a message on the Nanocom Forum awhie ago about that, but haven't had any emails to say I've received a reply about it... I should check back just to make sure there hasn't been a reply but I haven't been notified....

Guess I can also download the new version ready to upload when I get home, but I'm guessing most of the updates these days are geared more towards CANBUS vehicles rather than the dinosaurs we happily drive!

I'm sure the pink OAT stuff is OK to use as coolant... in fact there is a label band around the neck of my coolant tank that has OAT + H2O printed on it..

I don't know if it's just the later ones (Mine's an '01) but I don't think it should be a problem - as long as the Glycol based and OAT based coolants aren't mixed.

I've heard a few times not that is is possible for one of the contacts to effectively short one of the batteries out (not like in a 'boom' flames and smoke way) but rather more bypass it - so you actually only get 3V to the board. Sometimes the LED will still light up, (as the voltage needed to run it is less than 3V anyway) but the fob won't do anything, and won't sync - as the main chip needs 5V to operate properly.

These days when I replace batteries, I run a thin band of insulation tape around the outside of the pair of batteries - just to prevent this happening. I hadn't heard of it being a problem for a long time, and then there was a couple of postings on forums/FB groups where it had been found to be a problem. Can't hurt checking as a starting point either!

I am still intrigued by it not working too...

if you are down Swindon way at some point, then give me a shout, as I can now test key fobs - and decode the transmission from them to get the fob code being transmitted. I can then double-check that it matches what the BECM has stored and check everything else out for you...

2 things I've done to mine that have improved handle greatly - but are a PITA to do...

Ball joints, and radius arm bushes. I did ball joints first, and have recently done the radius arm bushes - and both times, it's felt like I've regained some connection with the road.

Altogether I've done:
Ball joints (both upper and lower, both sides)
Track Rod
Drag Link
Steering Damper
Anti-sway bar bushes + drop links
Steering box
Lower steering shaft
Radius arm bushes

Whilst some of the other bit have helped (there was a bit of play in my steering box - but not a lot) the ball joints and radius arm bushes are the only things that have made me feel like it's less likely to throw me into a hedge than anything else...

I've got a 12V 30A power supply that I use to power my LED lights above the work bench, and for all my testing.

It was a cheap (ish) one from eBay, but will has internal overload protection and things like that, even though I've split that out to some fuses for various tasks.

It will power up a P38 EAS compressor on the bench for testing, no problem.

The DSP replacement system is basically 4 door amps mounted to a sheet of aluminium which then bolts where the DSP amps sits.

It then gets wired in instead of the DSP amp, and an extra piece of loom is run to the head unit end to provide signal feeds for the Rear Left/Right doors. There is some re-wiring needed, but when I do the kits, (assuming my connectors arrive and are the correct ones) the wiring will all be labelled to join it to the vehicle wiring correctly.

Yes, I think you can use something like the adapter they show - or you could just make a pair of attenuator circuits for a lot less than that to connect to the current feeds.

There isn't any reason to start with that it wouldn't work - I have heard of people having trouble connecting to the DSP amp before with aftermarket solutions - but maybe they didn't turn the volume all the way up first. The only other thing I see is that with the number of people who have DSP amp problems and the fact they fail and are generally unrepairable.

It's your vehicle and your choice at the end of the day. If it were my vehicle and I was going to the extent of replacing the whole front end of the system, I'd swap out the DSP amp to start with to get rid of what is known to be a problem part. That and what they are worth WORKING as second hand is a lot more than what it's worth as a massive paperweight if/when it does fail and you need to find another solution.

Up to you, but yes, I don't see why the H2L adapter and turning it all the way up before disconnecting it won't work. I would make attenuator circuits rather than the adapter though, but that's just me aswell!

The ones I originally bought were not fit for purpose and the beam pattern was so far off that I never even left them in long enough to try them out on the road.

I bought another set which look very similar to the ones you link to above - but I bought mine direct from Hong Kong as they were a bit cheaper, and slightly brighter again.

I did a test fit, and the beam pattern is a lot better, but not quite exact replica of H4 Halogen beam pattern, from when I tested them on the bench.

I keep meaning to find a proper time to install them in the RR and point them at a wall/white garage door and see what they actually look like compared to the standard halogens. I did briefly try them on the road but the RH one was out of alignment, so I pulled them back out and put it in the too hard basket... after doing that I realised that I had preset the alignment of both lamps on the bench in a LH housing, and typically after I'd removed the LH one from the vehicle, found that twisting the RH one aligned it better...

By then I was 'over it' and gave up as I had other things to do and it was getting late! But I do believe after thinking about it more since then, that even though the spread is not 100% that of H4 Halogens - if I took the time to park it up against a proper surface and fiddle with them a bit more, I could get them lined up to a point where the cutoff on the RHS will not dazzle other drivers, unlike the first set I bought would have.

Also given how badly a lot of other vehicles headlights seem to be aligned, and how much dazzle I seem to get even in the higher position in the RR from some other vehicles that have been driving towards me before - I think that the LED cutoff is a lot sharper, so even if it's not perfect - it will still be good enough to not spray light everywhere into the wrong side of the road.

The verdict for me will obviously be once I've had the chance to fit and line them up properly! but the ones you link to do look like they are the best to go for at the moment! I think the second set I bought which are the same design but different colour (physically, not light output!) were about £10 cheaper - but I had to wait 3 weeks for them to arrive from the East!