It would be possible, yes.
It seems a bit backwards, but I would probably remove the DSP amp and retrofit individual door amps in the loadspace (as per my DSP amp removal/replacement thread) and then use attenuator circuits to come from the amplified output of the Android unit to drive the speakers.
It might seem a bit backwards to ditch the DSP amp - but a) if it's working, then you can sell it for a decent price and it would probably cover the cost of the Android unit, and swapping to individual amps etc. and b) the DSP system only takes a Left/Right feed which the amp then splits to each door - which if you do away with the factory head unit, then you lose that control.
The other way would be to output from the android unit and input that to the factory head unit - but that's a bit of a double-up on equipment.
It sounds like a lot of extra work and rewiring to do it, but in reality it took me an afternoon to install my DSP replacement in my other restoration P38 which has a dead DSP amp. The additional wiring for the inputs for Rear Left/Right didn't take long to run up to the dash either, and given how good it sounded - I am looking at swapping my current crossover system I made years ago to fit a DSP replacement unit into my own P38.
If you wanted to go the route of Android unit, plus DSP replacement - then I would be happy to do the install for you, or at least help with the amp/wiring/attenuator side - as I have all the parts to be make attenuators - and should hopefully (within a month or so when they arrive from China) have the required connectors to make DSP replacement cable looms to connect to door amp units.
I guess at the end of the day, it will depend on how integrated you and the system to be (eg an addition to the factory system, or a complete replacement nav/radio system) and I guess how much you want to spend on it.
I am sure that between the cost of the unit and swapping the DSP amp out - if you have a working DSP amp, and factory navigation computer, then you would get reasonable money for them - I would conservatively say that you would probably break even and the overall cost of swapping everything wouldn't be that much.
I'm happy with how my setup is, but think I will retrofit a DSP replacement unit to my vehicle at some point when I have enough connectors spare to make one for my p38, as I am sure it will sound a LOT nicer than the integrated amp chip is in the Android unit - though it isn't a BAD sound - I was just blown away by hearing the HK amps in my restoration P38!
I found it awhile ago when I was looking into various connectors and the likes... Put a bookmark in to the company page as they also do OBD connectors which apparently are used in LR vehicles... and would be the first one I tried if I needed to replace an OBD socket on P38s..
Failing that, if you want a new connector, then I believe this is the same as the MAF uses...
Hmm, I was planning on getting Nexens for mine when I replace the current Toyo's I put on 4 years ago...
I might look at Grabbers instead then if they have a good reputation....
It's not getting the bushes out that's the problem, it's getting the new ones back in...
The genuine rubber bushes (not the polybushes that don't last) are about 2mm oversize to the radius arm hole, so you need the Land Rover Tool to get the new ones in.
I've recently invested in a 20T shop press and the tool to do radius arm bushes. Makes it so much easier, and definitely do forum discounts on pressing bushes if anyone needs them doing.
Did mine a few weeks ago and it makes such a difference! There was plenty of cursing and an air angle grinder involved in getting the old ones out though...
Other than lubing your bags for pleasure, I don't think it would do much as I think it's more a case of as it articulates it just gets to that 'point' where it rolls over and pops... take that how you like....
I get it sometimes on mine and it looks like it's just as the suspension geometry changes as it goes up. I get it some times if it's lowered on it's own when I go away, as the air spring then re-pressurise on start up too.
I don't think it's anything to really worry about at the moment, as frustrating as it could be...
SpiggyTopes wrote:
I have the same low output sub problem.
My first P38 is the only one (I'm on number 4) where the sub worked properly and was good enough for me.
Marty .... did you test for low line level to the sub amp from the DSP amp?
I haven't tested the amp level coming from the DSP amp as I haven't ever had a RR with a working DSP amp!
I just remember reading that the RR system uses a fairly high line level signal, whereas most standard RCA pre-outs are a max of about 2V.. I seem to recall reading that the P38 system uses 4V, hence why the booster helps.
The only other BIG difference between the P38 system and most aftermarket systems is that the RCA Pre-outs are all unbalanced audio signals, whereas the P38 sound system uses a balanced audio signal, which means that it is a lot less susceptible to noise and interference as it effectively cancels itself out. Most aftermarket systems are all unbalanced as it's cheaper and easier to produce - which is where the ground is tied to the radio/chassis ground and then there is a single audio signal wire.
I believe this is also the reason that the level is lower as the peak-peak values of the balanced system will be bigger than the peak-ground value of an unbalanced system.
I think replacing the sub amp with an aftermarket one (and even keeping the P38 sub enclosure) would probably work better as the line level input would be unbalanced, low level and it would amplify from there - that would probably sort out the popping and the need for a booster if you have an aftermarket head unit. It's something I'm going to look at trying at some point when I get time again (probably after sorting out my engine problems!!)
I think that's the basics of the system - there is a whole science and theory around audio signals that I learnt a long time ago!! but a google search will probably bring up a tonne of other info about balanced vs unbalanced signals...
Marty
As GilbertD says... I bought some OE radius arm bushes at a lot less than the silly money for ones in green boxes/bags with a LR sticker on them.
They came in Blue boxes with Britpart on them, but the sticker had a G at the end and OEM on them, so I just have to take it at face value that they are OEM units that are just bought in bulk and boxed up blue instead of green.
Oh, as a side note, I new have a 20T press and the tool to press radius arm bushes in/out... so if you ever need them doing, then I'm happy to do the pressing for you - discounts for forum members too :)
I wonder if it's just a slight 'pop' as the fold of the rubber on the air spring rolls over itself to go into the higher settings?
Orangebean wrote:
What sort of line level booster are you using for your sub Marty? Mine is fed at line level from my Sony head unit and seems a bit gutless. <br>
I'm thinking one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autoleads-Car-RCA-Phono-level-line-level-signal-booster-1v-upto-4v-PC9-460-/381245838120 <br>
Always happy to find a cheaper solution, as long as I can have it delivered yesterday :-)
Yes, that is the one i'm using for my sub - it works OK (i opened it up and soldered wires directly to the board instead of using RCA connections). The only problem I have from my android unit now is the low pop when it turns off - but I think that is more coming from the head unit than the fact it's got a booster in it - the booster now just boosts everything!
Definitely gets the sub level back to being on par with the door speakers - before it was working, but just comparatively very low, so you couldn't tell it was doing anything until you turned it up really loud
I'm definitely happy with my all-in-one unit I've fitted.
Navigation - it runs iGo Primo, which is possibly a bit more basic than some mapping software, but does the job. There are also plenty of customisable options in there. I had to do a couple of tweaks to the configuration file to get rid of annoying bits, but I like tweaking things anyway!
Radio reception is better than my old JVC head unit, so happy with that too. It doesn't have DAB though, but there is an external AV input, and also I went for the cheaper end of the scale (again as I was hacking it apart to fit it into the P38!).
Steering wheel controls just work, as the wire from the vehicle loom connects straight to the unit and then the software learns each button press and you can assign them to what you like.
Bluetooth calling etc on my phone is good and apparently it will copy the address book over and is searchable but haven't had the chance to play with that yet.
It has wifi inbuilt, but will also take a 3G dongle on one of the USB ports, so you could easily put a data sim in there a day it would then have its own data connection. You could also use it as a hotspot if you want to for in-car wifi.
You can add other apps to it as it's android, I've downloaded Google maps so I can use that if I want (though igo has live/online traffic aswell) and it has option of being paired with phone for Bluetooth and an OBD adapter (ELM327 etc) at the same time. I've run it a few times with Torque on it whilst I've been driving.
Thinking of putting a copy of RAVE on it aswell for reference...
It uses amplified outputs, so standard attenuators would work ok for linking to vehicle systems, and has a pre-out for the sub. I get a bit of popping on mine on the subject line but I've also put a line level booster in to get a bit more oomph from the sub. But I'm going to look into circuits which will help fox that too.
I use NGK BPR6ES plugs in my Thor with LPG - I've heard that specific 'LPG' plugs or double platinum or whatever marketing gimmick slang they use isn't worth the extra premium in price for them, and there was one manufacturer that had specific LPG plugs, that were no different to their normal branded ones - but at 3x the price...
NGK's in mine have been good - I haven't taken them out yet to see how they are going, but they've been in there a couple of years which for me is between 6000 and 8000 miles!)
They are a special mode2 disc and can be a pain to burn sometimes.
I have a 2011/2012 map which I've burnt for a few people now - if anyone wants a copy then let me know.. I'm heading away for work again this weekend, but can make a list and do some when I'm back.
I'll also have a look and see if I can find the map files anywhere for later then then, and can make them available too if needed...
I've had Bosch Aero ones on mine (Can't remember if they are still on there - I need to change them again anyway as the rubber dried up whilst I was away working and it didn't get used)..
I will be going for the standard ones, rather than the Aero style as I'm not THAT impressed with them. I hate the overhang on the passenger side - I think that you might get away with 20" on passenger side to avoid the overhang altogether. I think mine are both 22" and the overhang is definitely more than an inch on the passenger side..
I had a really good set on one of my P38's in NZ - always had people giving me stick about them as they were yellow rubber (on a green P38!) but in some of the storms we had, they did the job nicely!
I will post up a picture of the weepy plug in a new thread to keep this on topic for Mark's transfer case....
If you need to use the RR until you've refitted then you could put the motor back on and just leave it unplugged. You might get random beeps but it won't jump out of range with the motor connected...
Though hopefully your bits will turn up today and it will be sorted!
EAS - I have a couple of compressors on the shelf that I've rebuilt so far, with new cylinder liners, seal, o-rings, filters etc. and about 3 more on the shelf to work on at some point!
I didn't know they were adjustable -
Should have given me a call - I was up at the workshop today and have a spare later ECU and couple of motors sitting on the shelf.
I'm guessing that one of the switches in the motor has it thinking it's not in high range, so it's been trying to shift to high, stalled the motor and burnt it out.
Chances are the replacement motor will already come in high range as that's what most of them are only ever used in.. so should bolt right on...
If it doesn't then 12V should shift it to high range where you can then bolt it on.
My day hasn't been amazing either - pressed new bushes into a set of radius arms, which was nice and easy with the 20T press and the proper press tools... Then had a bit of a nightmare fitting them, and then found that the bottom of my nicely dusty RR engine (sorry Morat :( ) has a nice damp spot on both side with signs of there being a fair bit of coolant there.... The worst bit is that on the LHS it's coming from one of the core plugs... Looks like my engine rebuild plans are going to have to be brought forward somewhat...
Hmm... maybe it is the ECU then... 45C is definitely a bit warmer than I expected it would be... as far as I know the ECU doesn't blood do anything until it's told to!
If it switches happily, then I would imagine that it should be the microswitch in the h gate (it's down in the metal part)
I'm not discounting the ECU having a fault - especially if it only does it after it's been out and driving for awhile as I would expect the microswitch to give problems whenever it felt like it, rather than after being driven for awhile. If it is ECU then it could just be a dry joint or a slowly failing capacitor on the input pin from the microswitch I guess.
I repaired a BECM logic board with a fault on the input pin for one of the rear door ajar microswitches and that was a faulty input capacitor, which was pulling the pin low all the time and effectively telling the BECM the door was open the whole time. I haven't pulled a Tcase ECU apart before the see what's in them either... I am guessing though that on the older ECU's, it would be possible to repair ones that have blown the transistors aswell... maybe I'll pull an old one apart at some point...
Depending on the compressor seal kit they can last awhile or not long at all. I bought one from the netherlands which claimed to be uprated and all this - and it lasted about 6 months. The ones I got from UK sellers off eBay seem to be lasting a lot longer at the moment though.
AMR6459 is the later version.
It could be the ECU, or maybe it's a dodgy switch in the motor itself, or the microswitch in the H gate which is causing it to think it's trying to change range or it's between ranges when the vehicle is in gear...
The original ECU from what I understand only really has the heat/blow up problem when it's actually changing range, if the motor sticks, then the power transistors, or MOSFETs or whatever they use in there to do the shifting overload and go pop... shouldn't have that problem if you haven't been changing range though...
There was another one that a guy had a problem with and it ended up being a connector under the centre console which had a dirty pins of something. After he'd taken it apart and cleaned it, the transfer case started behaving as it should do...
Marty
SpiggyTopes wrote:
That's great, Marty.
Is my old DSP amp any good to you?
I don't think it works, but never tried it.
Postage would be around GBP 15 I'm guessing.
Hi Spiggy,
Yes, I'm happy to take it off your hands if you don't want it anymore... it can go in the parts bin with the other couple I have... One day I might get around to being able to finding out what's wrong and repairing them... one I looked at before with my father (who's an electronics tech) looked like it was the actual DSP chip that had the fault, but I'd be interested to look at a few more and see if it is a common fault...
Drop me an email on p38webshop@gmail.com and let me know your payment details and I'll get the money sent through.
Cheers,
Marty