The only suspension ball joints are the ones in the ends of the axle that the steering knuckle bolts to. Other than that, and the drop links already mentioned, there are no ball joints in the suspension system. Radius arms have bushes. The steering linkages have ball joints, yes - but if it was one of those, then it would show up as a steering arm on the advisory, not suspension I would have thought.

Again, I'm a bit miffed by the steering column bearing - unless they feel there is a bit of slop in the steering and just put it down as a bearing, when it's the UJ at the top of the lower steering shaft...

I think we are definitely going to have to organise another 'Season' Camp at some point... seems like there are a lot of niggly things coming up for a few of us...

I was going to say 'winter camp' in January anyone? as I'll be back for a bit then from work, but that would also depend on who wants to brave the cold to do things!

Gilbertd wrote:

Bellhousing bolts are 3/8UNC according to Microcat.

Thanks for that... I probably have a few 3/8UNC lying around from other engine parts I've dismantled - but again, don't think they'll be long enough, so will do a measure up a bit later and will have to order some and some big washers to bolt it to the stand nice and snug.

Hmmmmm
Ok, interesting... I had a look online last night and someone was saying Rover V8 bellhousing bolts were 3/8UNC...

I think I'll have to go through my pile of bolts and see if I have one that fits (as I have a spare block sitting in the garage that will be sent away for top-hatting at some point!) and then get some to match which are a bit longer...

The stand I have will line up with 4 of the bell housing bolt holes - I don't know quite what I was expecting, but though that it would need something a bit more substantial than 4 little bolts like that to hand the whole engine off!!

Going to give V8 Dev a call in the next couple of days to see what the progress of the engine is... They said it would be a couple of weeks - and I've been away for 3 weeks working and not heard anything. I did say it wasn't completely urgent as I am away a lot - that and I am still gathering all the rest of the parts together to build the rest of the engine!

I'm also going to replace my rad at the same time as I swap the engine (when it's built and being swapped)!

Out of interest... what size bolts have you used for bolting the engine to the stand? I need to order some for when the block etc arrives.

My headlining is sagging aswell and needs doing - likewise on my other 2 P38's... so I've got a total of 3 to do! I've got one old headlining board with sunroof cutout to strip/re-trim which will hopefully make it a bit easier.

Back on topic ish..... how much was the 35000 mile HSE?

Should be able to put new pots in them and have them all running properly...

What model pots did you use? Can't remember if I sent you a couple ages ago or not...

He said it had central locking problem... Maybe that's finally caused it stop unlocking or starting properly.

Zavoli LPG system is one of the many AEB versions out there - same as what my one runs.

The original injectors that came on mine (proper Zavoli ones) didn't click at all, but all the replacements I've used have all clicked. If you can hear it inside then if they're mounted up against the firewall, then that's probably what's causing it. Mounting them with some rubber to dampen the vibrations should cure it.

Earlier Zavoli systems are pretty basic multipoint, t he later ones have optional OBD connectivity which will let it auto trim itself when running on gas, by looking at the fuel trims. Mine doesn't have that, it just slaves off the petrol system with no adaptivity though I've seen the check box for it in the software for later models.

Well, if you are about at all during the day tomorrow Ferryman, then I have a bit of free time now! My flight is in the evening. And I was expecting to have to go to work again in the morning to finish off my load out. However, we managed to get the truck in tonight, so got very thing derigged and loaded tonight... which means I now have until 4pm when I have to go to the airport, off.

So if you are about at all in the day, then I'm sure we could find coffee or something like that!

If not, then now I know you aren't far away, I'll let you know if I'm back here at some point!

Cannes... should be ok.. only there for 4 days, a day will be working solidly all day too, so might not have much down time there this time. Will see how I go though I guess!

I think the price included delivery to me - but I'll have to check that when they give me a call to say it's ready and for the rest of the money,,,
If delivery is going to be loads, then I'll drop you a message and see if we can work something out...

Engine crane is fixed - I bought 4x new rubber wheeled castors and fitted them awhile ago (thanks for the idea, Chris!) - rolls a lot better now too...

So what's wrong with it... he's saying worth over 4K, so why so cheap... all those 'special edition' ones that were 8K+ won't have had half what he's saying that's been done to this one - so what's the catch?

The Vogue badge looks like it is in the right place - but the V8 is definitely aftermarket.

Well, I am away again at the moment - so everything is on hold until I get back! Though I might try and get some of the things like gasket set, bolt set, and all of that ordered before I am due to come home, so that I will have even more things to try and cram in my garage, until the engine itself turns up.

i think the idea of bringing the engine crane home is the best one - then I get the best of both worlds - being able to work on it at home, but then heading to the workshop to actually install it.

I am sure that a hand to move things up there once the engine is ready will be MUCH appreciated... though my timeframe is getting pushed back a lot at the moment, as I possibly have another job at the end of October now (got to pay for all this stuff somehow, right?) which means that even if i get the engine built, I don't think I will have time to install it before I go to the USA - so realistically I'm looking at early January for doing the swap.

It also seems a bit silly to race to get it all done, get it in and running and then promptly leave it sitting about for 6 weeks whilst I'm away, I may aswell leave the old lump in there for that time and then start fresh in the New Year, when hopefully I'll be around a bit more to actually use it!

I guess I now have to wait until a) I get home and can start doing some more bits and b) a call from V8 Dev once the short engine is ready and I can pay another chunk of money to get it delivered...

Those wheels and savvy don't go together though.... so fingers crossed

The one with the electrical fault with the locking is probably something like a dodgy microswitch...

Looks like it needs a respray though - with the bubbling of the paint/rust appearing on the rear arch.. Otherwise looks nice enough! Oh and the left headlight wiper arm is bugging me... lol

The H&H looks nice, but not at £14K - especailly as it probably has leaky heater core o-rings, and a soggy drivers footwell... and I like how they say 2 lesser specced H&H's sold for excess of £20K.... I thought H&H was the spec... not a 'range' of specifications...

The 30th is nice, but I couldn't do all the green! it's also got cheap aftermarket exhaust - you can tell by the massive rear silencers that hang down and look ugly... If you're paying £9K for it, then I'd be telling them to put something better on it!

The 50th is probably the nicest one there, the Autobiography looks nice on the interior, but the outside is shocking and really could do with a couple of new panels and a respray too! but at least it's a realistic price... oh, and some new wheels!!

I know you have tried cleaning the MAF, but was that one of the other things that you have actually tried swapping?

There isn't really that much else that could be causing it - unless as GillbertD mentions about a breach in the HG between 2 cylinders... If it runs like crap in closed loop, then the only parts in the closed loop system are really the MAF, IACV, and Lambdas. Ok, there are a bunch of other sensors too - and the injectors..

Ooohh, out of interest... what about the IAT temp sensor... I know that can be a bit contentious I think to get a reading from it in some diagnostics (or maybe it's just the Bosch ones as it's part of the MAF on the later ones) but if it's failed and it thinks the air is a different temperature to what it actually is, then that could possible cause overfuelling and bad running... Also could be worth looking at the TPS live values aswell if you haven't already..

only £950 for V8 developments to top hat your old block.... include new cam bearings and core plugs...

I know it's still not cheap, but it might be cheaper than starting from scratch with something else... and a lot cheaper than a new short engine, especially if you've already renewed most of the other bits!

From memory it's a GEMS? Have you tried cleaning the IACV stepper motor? If it's gummed up it could be causing problems, likewise the TPS..

It us also worth trying to reset the adaptive values and see what that does to the running of it.. I think on GEMS they are reset on next power up after being told to do it. I know on Bosch it clears adaptive values straight away, even with the engine running...

There is also a couple of differences between the earlier GEMS and Thor blocks - one is the crankshaft sensor mounting is different, and also the mounting for the knock sensors is different.

It's the main reason I've got for a short engine, rather than relinering the spare GEMS block I have in the garage and using that for my Thor.

I think you can get the crank sensor mounting re welded for it to accept the Thor sensor on a GEMS block though..

I love how shiny that block is...

Yep, the wiring in through the join of the sub cabinet and black sealant is how they came from the factory....

hmm...

I have one of the plastic 'Range Rover' loadspace trays at the workshop, so could fit that in the boot to put the engine on, and slide back into it... I would just have to make sure that the engine crane and the engine would fit in the back of the RR... as it would be somewhat counter-productive to have the engine crane at home, and find that I can't fit it in the RR with the engine, then it would make it interesting to get it back out again at the workshop!

I think I will go with building it up on an engine stand in the garage - and bring the engine crane home from the workshop to lift it off the pallet that it will no doubtedly arrive on, onto the engine stand (once I've bought it!)

And Morat, yes, that will mean I need to do a bit of a tidy up to make sure it all fits!!! It makes the most sense since I have most of the other engine parts starting to congregate in the garage already aswell!!