That bloody Ornagebean gets the blame for everything...

Nice one Tony! A neat installation at a bargain price and your second-hand parts all worked. I foresee the tweaking of maps in your future as I bet you can't resist the temptation! <br>
Congratulations

And..... <br>
As quoted in eBay's own guidance and rules to sellers for returns: <br>
http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/sell/return-policy.html <br>
"Remember, if an item is being returned because it's not as described, you are legally required to pay the return postage costs" <br>
"Ready to fit" was the phrase used in their listing. It clearly isn't, so it's not as described...
.

That's interesting Marty. I've used Furness quite a bit and had nothing but good experiences. Clean functioning parts and posted rapidly.

Looks like someone's sheared off the bolt and run a drill down the side of it. If that's the case the remains of the bolt will have to be removed and the damage will become more apparent. Definitely not fit for purpose as advertised. I'd take it up with the vendor.

One more thing to polish under the bonnet though...

I know what you mean <br>
Last time I built a blueprinted V8 (Triumph not Rover), about 4 years ago, the machining cost somewhere around £800 and the parts around £1400. It's painfully expensive, even at trade prices.

Extend the cable and stick it up in the tree!

I haven't, but you could stick it in the windscreen or window that faces southish and it'd work just as well. <br>
You'll need to use the croc clips on the battery or make up a fused perm live cable to connect. Our cig lighters are dead unless ignition on!

Stick one of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/solar-powered-12v-15w-battery-charger-n31cx in your sunroof if you're not using the car for any period of time. I use a couple of them on the campervan- main and leisure batteries, which only gets occasional use. Never ( well in last 4 years) failed to keep batteries fully charged even in weak winter sunshine. <br>

If you're going for near perfect, why not drop the short engine into Turners for remanufacture? <br>
http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/V8enginesreman.html <br>
You'll get a 3 year warranty on the block, which would be a major selling point.

If you can wait for 1 day, buy one of these: <br>
http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/hankook-mf31-1000.html <br>
They'll deliver next day if ordered before 1630 <br>
You missed the order deadline by 17 mins for delivery tomorrow :-(

Yep- flat battery alright (unless you've got a loose main terminal somewhere) <br>
Stick it on a good battery reviving charger (I charge mine with it still connected- hasn't trashed anything- yet!). Don't disconnect battery as the residual volts will keep your windows/ roof/ sounds/ security alive.
Assuming you're inside the security perimeter of Castle Morat, don't lock it or do anything with the fob.

Bit like the Airbag Fault message when you're just completing the last few yards to the scene of the accident :-) <br>
Just realised that, as I don't have side bags it won't be underseat connectors. Off to plug the Nano in, in the rain, to see what useful info I can glean. <br>
It's completely intermittent though- comes and goes and doesn't "hard fault" and stay locked on. <br>
Edit: Grrrrrr. No faults found on Nanocom!

Hard to tell from the pics Marty, but some of those shells look like there might be some re-deposition of bearing material indicating localised overheating (oil cavitation, short term lack of lube or similar). <br>
Definitely means that the engine oilways will need a thorough clean. <br>
How was the engine running when you got the car? (is this the one that was running when we were all up at your place recently?). Did you get a chance to compression/ pressure test it before stripping? Just wondering because for a resale car I'm not sure that you'll get the cost of top-hat liners back when you sell it on. <br>
If liners and bores are OK you should get away with a hone and re-ring

Put the P38 through the MOT yesterday. Once again passed with no advisories (which I was kind of hoping for given the amount of attention I've been giving it recently!) <br>
Driving it back from the test the Airbag Fault warning pops up in the message centre- not totally unusual as it did occasionally last winter on damp mornings, disappearing again in a few seconds. <br>
This time was different though. Not only did the message not disappear, but the red SRS MIL light came on shortly afterwards. <br>
Time to plug in the Nanocom and see what (limited) direction it points me in, I suppose (I'm thinking connector under the seat for starters, working on the theory that the tester played with the seat position to get comfortable in the car!). It's a TRW MPS (TYPE 1) system on this car. <br>
Anyway my point in this ramble is- is there such a thing as a good time for a fault light? Half an hour before and that light would have been a straight fail. For once, the P38 gods were kind in their timing, so I guess I should be grateful for that!

Beware the cheapy digital verniers. They don't have the resolution or (as important) the repeatability to do the job properly. <br>
I still use good old fashioned screw micrometers for this kind of stuff- they've got the element of "feel" that you don't get with calipers. <br>
For a quick rebuild you should get close enough to check for ovality and wear limits with a lowish cost vernier though.

I'd clean it and mic the journals.<br>
Depends on whether it's a "keeper" motor or one that's going into one of your refresh and sells. <br>
Assuming journals within tolerance: if a seller then new shells and away you go. If a keeper, get it checked for straightness and the journals polished as well. <br>
Doesn't look bad though (apart from the strange parallel lines on rh journal last pic- light reflections?), what were the shells like?... <br>
<br>
Crankshaft
Main journal diameter 63.487 to 63.500 mm ........................ 2.499 to 2.52 in <br>
Minimum regrind diameter 62.979 to 62.992 mm ................... 2.509 to 2.510 in <br>
Maximum out of round 0.040 mm ...................... 0.002 in <br>
Big-end journal diameter 55.500 to 55.513 mm ...................... 2.20 to 2.22 in <br>
Minimum regrind diameter 54.992 to 55.005 mm ................... 2.16 to 2.165 in <br>
Maximum out of round 0.040 mm ...................... 0.002 in <br>
End-float 0.10 to 0.20 mm .................................. 0.004 to 0.008 in <br>
Maximum run-out 0.08 mm ............................ 0.003 in <br>

That's an interesting one Chris. <br>
From what I remember your Kahn's didn't look super wide. Do you run a lot of extra offset on them or something? <br>
I've not seen anything like this reported on other forums when others have put beefy boots on. Looks like you've discovered that rare beast- a truly new P38 problem...

Pretty sure Chris has done his recently and, knowing his prowess with a hammer, I bet he didn't take the easy route of fitting a replacement hub! <br>
He'll probably drop by soon and share his experience. I do know it takes a pretty beefy press to get the hub apart though