I've got Grabber AT2's on mine. Absolutely no complaints. Good on the tarmac- not too noisy, and, when I've needed to, seem to clear mud from the tread pretty well to "moderately" off-road. <br>
They wear flat across the tread run at the std 28/38 predominantly on tarmac. My fronts are down to around 8mm now (rears 9.5) so will be replacing them when down to around 5mm with..... <br>
more AT2's! <br>
With a bit of internet digging you can get them for £107.00 ish delivered. Make sure that they're AT2's though as there's also a Grabber AT!
View and download
Works for me Spiggy
How big's a decent sized BMW then Morat?!
I was thinking similar- hence slapping loads of rubber lube onto the bags. Aside from the weird sensual pleasure I got from doing it, nothing was achieved. Thunk still there!
If it's the flex plate, a few standing start sessions with the smile button pressed and flooring it will soon flush out the fault :-) <br>
Probably the cleanest one with the shiny new Air Dryer...
Your new modded exhaust almost drowns it out anyway! <br>
Kind of tinny- heat shields rattling maybe? <br>
I wouldn't worry- it doesn't sound like a death rattle
My guess was wrong! <br>
From the pen of Mr Toad, in the General forum of the other site: <br>
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/13-general-chatter/248649-gilbertd-how-not-behave-forum.html <br>
EDIT- replaced text with a link. Didn't want to be accused of copying another site's material :-)
Any restorer worth his MIG welder know's when something just isn't worth restoring and becomes a donor car :-)
As your sig has disappeared, I'm wondering if he thinks YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club is your personal site and 'cos he doesn't know what it means, thinks you're a damn commie activist or something, or even that the TH refers to him?!! <br>
Pretty bloody shabby, whatever the reasons
You'll need to define who these loons are that we're going to send off to Latvia, off-road, via central France Miles. <br>
That way we can arrange a rota of non-loons to man the forum to arrange express freighting the spare parts required to keep them moving! <br>
Unless, of course, your intention is to leave them half-way up an Alp for the foreseeable future.... <br>
I'm still cleaning the mud off my engine bay from the 3 miles or so between Marty's workshop and civilisation. That's more than enough off-roading for me for one summer :-) <br>
Loon volunteers please step forward...
Bounce testing a 2 tonne car on bags would be a challenge for sure! <br>
Looking at the way the suspension is put together, I'd put it into extended, put a ratchet strap round the axle/ chassis somewhere handy to stop it over extending and pop off the bottom nut on the shock. <br>
This should give enough room to work the shock through its range of movement to check the damping. <br>
That's my theory anyway! <br>
The reason I asked about the Konis was that the P.O. fitted Konis to mine. As part of the design they have heavier rebound damping than the Boges and I was wondering whether the stiction could be a side effect of that.
Yep, that's the one Gordon. Exactly like something popping free. <br>
Not running Koni's on yours by any chance are you?
I've noticed recently (but it may have always been there) that on raising my height from access to extended, or back, that there's a point where the suspension seems to stick momentarily then give a little jump rather than moving smoothly. The point at which it happens is never quite the same. <br>
Everything looks normal underneath, no chafing or dull spots on bags, no grease nipples to grease. Even sprayed bags and rubber bushes with rubber lube (oooer missus). Still the sticking is there. <br>
Anyone else have this, is it just paranoia because I've noticed it and am now looking for it?!
Suggestions welcome...
Tony- I'm wondering if the condenser fan issue is a bit of a red herring. As Sloth says, by the time they kick in for a hot engine it's usually very late. <br>
I'm still thinking that the root of your overheating lies elsewhere. You've had the cooling system drained to fit your LPG. Do you think it might be our old friend- a bleeding issue and that you have an air lock somewhere? <br>
If the "normal" cooling system is in good nick- free of air, stat behaving, circulating well and viscous fan locking at higher temps, it is more than adequate to keep the engine cool even on the hottest days in slow traffic that I've encountered. <br>
Not saying that your A/C fans don't have a problem, just that that might be a distraction from the main cause...
Hello Tony. According to ETM, when relay 18 is energised, it provides connection between relays 13 and 14 (fan 1 and 2) in series or parallel with each other. This is dependent upon the state of the air–conditioning pressure switch 1. <br>
Might be an idea to pull the relays and jump the fans individually to make sure the motors are good and work back from there? <br>
As an aside, your original problem was engine temp going to max in stop/ start traffic. Have you checked to see that your condenser and engine rads are clear of crap so that air can flow freely, your viscous clutch is engaging and actually spinning the fan with full force when hot and lastly, when was the water pump last changed? The impellers corrode away to just blades on the metal ones, and the plastic ones fall to bits! <br>
Even on our rare really hot days, coming straight from motorway speeds to half hour traffic jams, I've never actually heard my condenser fans kick in and the temp gauge stays happily at its 1mm above half (equating to 89-90 degrees on the Nano) where it sits all the rest of the time.
Thanks Marty, I'll give one of those a try. <br>
After a day of messing around under the dash yesterday, removing and binning little filter boxes, pre-amps, mystery electronic components and repairing various bodges to the loom, I can confirm that the Ray Ambler attenuators were the solution to my ever-present low level buzz. <br>
I now have a fully functioning, hum free and satisfyingly ballsy sound system, just gutless in the sub department. <br>
Back to the Android tablet in the dash now...
What sort of line level booster are you using for your sub Marty? Mine is fed at line level from my Sony head unit and seems a bit gutless. <br>
I'm thinking one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autoleads-Car-RCA-Phono-level-line-level-signal-booster-1v-upto-4v-PC9-460-/381245838120 <br>
Always happy to find a cheaper solution, as long as I can have it delivered yesterday :-)
Stick your Nanocom on the ABS and see if you've got any faults reported with pressure switch, pump etc. Generally if the accumulator fails you get the good old 3 amigos flashing when you hit the brake pedal. I know cos mine did 2 days after I bought it! <br>
For nav I use Copilot on my Galaxy Note. I have an old geezers distrust of relying on a data connection although I do have Google Maps on there as a backup. It's better now it has the offline save option, but still... <br>
The Note kind of replicates the functionality that the Android tablet gives, only on a smaller screen. Bluetoothed to the head unit I get my Spotify music, my entire CD collection (wonderful things 64GB sd cards), handsfree phone. RAVE etc <br>
I can see the charm of a tablet- that larger screen would be a huge bonus!