Do you mean connect compressor output direct to NRV1 and thus direct to the tank Sloth? That like it might work as a short term fix as far as circuit diagram goes. <br>
You could just connect input and output pipes together- still have to buy an 8mm pneumatic connector though, although as a field repair you could bung in any old barbed connector and wire pipes on or something
Assuming the housing's not cracked (unlikely) buy something like this <br>
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38-RANGE-ROVER-AIR-DRYER-REPAIR-KIT-NTC9812-FOR-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-/281760805564?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&hash=item419a40b2bc:g:wXQAAOSwr41XHzPL <br>
clean up the ends of the pipes with a pencil sharpener, replace the o rings and job done! <br>
If you don't want to do that, just buy this: <br>
https://www.lrdirect.com/NTC9812-supplied-by-britpart-branded-oem.html <br>
clean up pipe ends, shove em in and away you go
OK- I've got my parts pile together and took delivery of a length of 30mm Acetal for EAS calibration. I'll be taking a break from the rain and extricating my Hybrid from the brambles and cutting it (the Delrin, not the Landy) up into the appropriate lengths. <br>
I had already made a set, but seem to have "lost" them! <br>
In terms of extra's, I'll also bring:
Quick test- disable EAS by opening drivers door. If tank empty and compressor good it should fill in 12-15 mins. <br>
If not, check compressor output by disconnecting its output hose and put finger over hole. You should feel a significant build up of pressure and it should be virtually impossible to keep it blocked <br>
Once you know compressor is good, as it happened so suddenly odds are its a popped line or bag. Out with the soapy water and slather over everything, but you should be able to hear a hissing anyway- especially if you did line 1 and your tank is full. Once you shut the door and EAS is enabled again, with a full tank if it's a big hole- you'll hear it!
Have you trawled through this Morat? <br>
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/suspump.html#jumpers
If you've checked/ changed/ adjusted everything else then the damper is the next suspect. Guy before you might have changed it, but it might well be a Sh!tpart or other piece of junk. Should be relatively easy to pop off and check bushes and backlash in internals
Cat rattle would be my bet- a few large self taps in the right place is an easy short-term fix. <br>
A few large self taps in the right place would solve your bunny stomping (or rather stomping bunny) problem too :-)
Yep, in the Alexandra House so I can be chauffeur for people with clean arses :) <br>
Erm- a ride for a ride Morat?! <br>
I'll probably get the bus then...
You in the Alexandra House Morat? If so, as well as being a Go-fer, you could double as a Chau-fer if mine is immobilised on the Saturday evening! <br>
I was wondering about the logistics of doing everything I needed to do and keeping it useable at the end of each day.
You putting ARP studs in when reassembling? Make life easier next time you want to do the heads and avoid that Ooops moment when torquing down the stretchy bolts...
Maybe the 5/8 from this set will fit in there <br>
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-BASE-SET-5PC-SET-3-8-10MM-5-8-16MM-x-1-/201598707416?hash=item2ef03826d8Ⓜ️mKkVk5Pc9MJZuQu-T-ZFCTA <br>
I've used them on stubborn/ rounded/ rusted nuts on many classics. <br>
If it's #2 in the official removal sequence, at least it's accessible. <br>
With care the head can be drilled off, assuming you can get at it to centre punch, drill straight and use cobalt bits.
There's no gentle way to say this, but if your 5/8 6 point socket is rounding the heads off, then it's probably a sh!t socket. It would be worth investing in a quality side drive socket similar to this in a 5/8 <br>
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precise-Engineered-Facom-Square-Socket/dp/B013ZOZ9HQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466599964&sr=8-6&keywords=facom+ogv+socket+16mm <br>
Welding a nut on works cos it attacks from 2 fronts- puts lots of heat in and gives you something decent to grip on. Not an option if you don't have a welder and can't weld though! <br>
No idea if a chef's torch would put enough heat in. I've only ever used the missus' for lighting bonfires. <br>
Good luck- perseverance will get you there
I'll refresh the list of bits that I'm craving and ping it to you. <br>
Are you going to change your autobox filter as well? May as well while you're under there :-) <br>
Sloth wrote:
I'll need to get a list together of all the bits left from my old P38 to bring with me :)
<br>
I'm still up for it Marty. <br>
As I said in an offline chat, I'm up on the Friday so can muck in to get stuff shifted. As far as the Disco goes, if it's your mates and he can't be arsed to move it then we just drop it onto its chassis rails and drag it! No chance of it rolling away down the hill! <br>
Things I'm aiming to do: <br>
Welcome home Marty! <br>
Back to the welcoming embrace of your P38, which is obviously craving your attention as soon as you walk in the door.... <br>
Gilbertd's is an ex Police vehicle IIRC so might have a different wiring fit.
Shows the value of a Nano though. Would have taken bloody ages to find otherwise!
Marty's back in the next few days, so once he's un-jetlagged himself he'll be able to give you the definitive answer to what switches the fogs...
What exactly do you mean by a Block Tester kit? <br>
One that springs to mind is a leakdown tester, but that requires your heads to be in-place and intact so that you can introduce compressed air. <br> Your lump is now in bits so that won't work. <br>
You've already done a sniffer test I think, but even if not, once the engine's headless, you can't do that either
£70.00? That'll be Britpart then! <br>
Your choice entirely, but you can buy OEM quality for £115.00 ish. That way you probably won't be replacing it again in 6 months!
How about some pics of the block face with head gasket removed?
That stuff is just snake oil/ thickener. If you feel your engine's a bit tired and would benefit from a heavier oil, best to up a notch or two in viscosity and use a quality oil. The science gurus at a decent oil manufacturer will have added just the right additives to do the job. <br>
Your knocking might even be caused by your oil + additive being too thick to circulate when cold. <br>
You might solve your problem knocking by draining and flushing oil system, new filter and refill with a good 10w40 or 20w50. <br>
Good luck