You've never been up the track to Marty's workshop then Shep?
Two trips up there and that's pretty much what my engine bay looked like :)
OldShep56 wrote:
Marty, please tell me you are going to clean that engine bay out!!! How the fukk does it get like that?
You can't put that beautiful engine into that bay.
Moan of the day!
What sort of multiple expletive deleted would stick the IACV inlet stub onto the inlet tube with Bostik and expect it to:
1- stay on
2- be airtight
Still, now have 2 kilowatts of worklights operating again so can top up my tan while working!
I've never short cutted draining entire system George, but for a full fluid change I just empty master cylinder (I've got one of those vacuum bleeder things) refill with fresh fluid and repeat the RAVE bleed process ad nauseum until I have spotless bubble free fluid coming from every orifice. Warning- have around 6 litres of DOT4 ready if doing it this way!
Probably not the short cut you wanted though. Maybe others have emptied the system more effectively, but you'd still have to bleed ad nauseum anyway!
You lobbing a new flexplate in while you're down there Marty?
Once Marty's done one trip up the track to the workshop, the engine colour will be academic- it'll all be brown anyway :)
I'm jealous of how good it looks at the moment though Marty. Having spent hours in the parts washer doing my top end stuff, it looks pretty much as crappy (finish wise) as before I started
Yep- got one of those as well. With a bluetooth dongle plugged into aux in and a micro sd 64GB in the USB slot I've got all the worlds music at my (and my phones) fingertips.
Sloth wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
BTW I don't have a Clarion as per your other post, but in the 95 I have a cheapish Kenwood unit with my version of Ambler attenuators and it sounds bloody brilliant through the door amps etc. Something like that might do him as a stopgap?
I'd do this anyway - the Clarion is a bit naff and not exactly full of functionality. You can get a PAC-SWI to connect the steering wheel controls if he has/wants them.
It's looking grand Marty!
As you've got Sloth helping, make sure you've got a good supply of Elastoplast around the workshop :)
Decided what Dino oil you're going to use for the break-in period yet?
Smiles Gilbertd- indeed I have, but not in the workshop (gmail only here),
I'll have a look with eager anticipation when I get home. Thanks in advance.
BTW I don't have a Clarion as per your other post, but in the 95 I have a cheapish Kenwood unit with my version of Ambler attenuators and it sounds bloody brilliant through the door amps etc. Something like that might do him as a stopgap?
Cheers Simon
Now off on a hunt for some v4.x or v3.x software.
Feeling much more upbeat about the LPG setup now I know what it is. Might even hunt around for a 2568D if they're THAT interchangeable (plug and play, not needing new looms sensors etc). That's probably running before I can even crawl though so will concentrate on getting it 100% on what I've got 1st :)
Yes- the under bonnet fuses to start with and initially avoid the Maxi Fuses
dazer2000 wrote:
Do you mean the box under bonnet on right hand side and the ones on the BCEM ? and what is MAXIS ?
With the vehicle asleep, start sticking your ammeter across the fuse sockets (not the Maxis) and see which ones are drawing current and how much. There's also the possibility that a neighbour got a new toy (weather station, wireless smoke alarms etc) for Christmas and that's waking your rf receiver so unplugging that might make a difference
I've always used this http://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/1840-smith-and-allan-atf-diii-dexron-3-atf-d3-semi-synthetic/ and never had a box issue. Good price if you go for the 20L size as well!
Difficult to explain without going into cracks and stuff, but it won't run under 10 unless you get the paid for version. Have you tried the online one at
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 ?
Good news on the box of bits! Fobs are original to car (both fit glove box lock). Fobs are a bit used- one has lost the rubber button pad, but both at least light up when buttons pressed! Complete ignition lock assy. meaning that, after a good clean to get the gate switch working properly its a straight unplug/ plug in job. Engine ECU is original to car (matching VIN). Hard to read BECM info sticker (pic below) but can't see a VIN number anywhere on it BUT a bill from CallRova for BECM refurb. Intact complete door handle with no sticking problems. I'm a happy bunny at the moment, or at least I was until I found that all of the work lights in the workshop have blown due to nesting birds, some of whom did not survive the experience!
First job tomorrow- replace the worklights so I can see what I'm doing.
By the way Daren, have you downloaded and read RAVE?
At last, and with the benefit of adding a polarised lens to my Note camera (not an easy thing to do) I've finally managed to extract the data plate from my LPG ECU, so, the $60 000 question. From this info, can any of my favourite gurus tell me exactly what system I have now?
.
Thanks guys...
EDIT- from a bit of judicious Googling I'm deducing it's an AEB2568B. What version of the software will work with this and what installation manual is the most appropriate?
Conscious that I've gone quiet on the refresh of the SE A. Had a bit of a black festive season for various reasons and have only just mustered up enough enthusiasm to walk back up to the workshop.
Having just this moment taken delivery of a large box containing all the original electronics- BECM, ECU, key fobs, door and ignition switches I'm feeling a bit more fired up and now getting stuck back in!
More grumbles to follow as I progress!
LOL- not from a standing start!
Floor it and leave your gearbox and both propshafts sitting in the middle of the road :)
Impressive performance on LPG though
+1 to Gilbertd ^. Plates are the same whether Thor or Gems and from the LR Direct list the Bearmach (only alternative I'd personally contemplate) is £10 and the genuine LR £41.
£31 compared to the cost of having to take the whole bloody thing out again is small beer. Go genuine LR, but check with LR Direct that it doesn't come in a $hitpart box or all bets are off :)
Apart from all these?
https://www.lrdirect.com/FTC4607-Flex-Plate-Auto-New-Rr/?keep_https=yes