Anyone have an idea of the part number or generic clip- the 4 that hold the brake light trim panel into the upper tailgate?
I imagine they're similar to the cheese headed ones that hold the door trims in place, but with a mushroom head. Wouldn't know for sure cos my broken panel was siliconed on and all I have is a mushroom head top rattling around inside.
Microcat computer is once again where I'm not otherwise I could look them up!
Found this when digging around on the web:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEbrvFjT-ho
For some reason, I've got a feeling I'm going to add one to my fleet, if I can find the right spec at the right price, so if anyone knows of any late Vogues/ Autobiographies up for sale at a reasonable price, let me know!
Was having a tiptoe through another forum today and found a thread that contains troubling info that may or may not be correct (you know what these forums are like!).
Allegedly the pre-Thor cars have a lower set point voltage on the alternator which is incompatible with calcium based batteries, resulting in them never charging completely and an early demise of aforementioned battery.
Anyone got any real-world experience or info on this? My MF31-1000 gives me a warm cuddly feeling whenever I open the bonnet, in the "one thing I don't have to worry about" region.
Now I am!
For those of you that hadn't spotted this (maybe it was just me), production version 1.32 has now been released!
I've noticed recently (but it may have always been there) that on raising my height from access to extended, or back, that there's a point where the suspension seems to stick momentarily then give a little jump rather than moving smoothly. The point at which it happens is never quite the same. <br>
Everything looks normal underneath, no chafing or dull spots on bags, no grease nipples to grease. Even sprayed bags and rubber bushes with rubber lube (oooer missus). Still the sticking is there. <br>
Anyone else have this, is it just paranoia because I've noticed it and am now looking for it?!
Suggestions welcome...
Just a quickie <br>
Does anyone have the part number for the later finned transfer box ECU handy? My laptop with Microcat is in hospital at the moment! <br>
Box transfers fine but my occasional "Select Neutral" message is now becoming a regular visitor after any decent length drive so I'm guessing a heat soak problem with the original fit "weaker" ECU <br>
Ta!
Put the P38 through the MOT yesterday. Once again passed with no advisories (which I was kind of hoping for given the amount of attention I've been giving it recently!) <br>
Driving it back from the test the Airbag Fault warning pops up in the message centre- not totally unusual as it did occasionally last winter on damp mornings, disappearing again in a few seconds. <br>
This time was different though. Not only did the message not disappear, but the red SRS MIL light came on shortly afterwards. <br>
Time to plug in the Nanocom and see what (limited) direction it points me in, I suppose (I'm thinking connector under the seat for starters, working on the theory that the tester played with the seat position to get comfortable in the car!). It's a TRW MPS (TYPE 1) system on this car. <br>
Anyway my point in this ramble is- is there such a thing as a good time for a fault light? Half an hour before and that light would have been a straight fail. For once, the P38 gods were kind in their timing, so I guess I should be grateful for that!
Now that my LPG system seems to be running properly, I thought I'd do a fill to fill from the same pump, mixed conditions consumption check. The trip to and from Summer Camp and some local running around seemed like an ideal mix of conditions. <br>
I'm getting 3.265 miles/litre <br>
I'm wondering how that compares with others on single point, multi point and 4.0 and 4.6 L <br>
Anyone prepared to share their dark secrets?!
500 miles or so of mixed driving after Summer Camp I thought I'd give a bit of feedback on the Mintex pads I fitted to the front of the car. <br>
Compared to the genuine Land Rover pads I had before, the Mintex ones have much more feel- less wooden/ on-off and more round town braking with less pedal pressure. No signs of fade when driven enthusiastically round the Devon highways and byways. No squeal <br>
Only downside so far is that they generate a bit more brake dust so are probably softer and won't last as long. <br>
Mind you- I haven't towed anything yet so can't comment on ultimate fade resistance. <br>
At £21.49 delivered off the Bay compared to £100.00 ish for genuine ones they seem like good value for money. UK made too!
I'm getting some strange volumetric flow rates on my MAF (datestamped 1996) and my backup MAF (history unknown- dunno why I keep it really). Both are cleaned, but are probably at the end of their lives so... <br>
Time to buy a replacement. The quandary is, obviously I'm not going to give LR £980 for a new genuine one (if they even have one) so the options are
For some strange reason, I can't see anything in "Exhaust Works" except the first post with the picture although 8 are shown. I'm thinking that maybe the Pub has a snug bar that I'm not allowed in :-) JK- but wonder what techie glitch is going on there?!
Excuse the lack of paragraphs here. Haven't worked out how to transfer what's in the box format to published so look like a teenager typing on a mobile phone. Bear with me!
So... I'm running OMVL/ Millenium single point on my '95 4.6. Vapouriser, stepper and lambda sensors (sensor) are new.
I know that these setups aren't optimum for extracting the last few HP from the motor, due to the limitations of single lambda and single point injection of gas into the inlet. The system is set up to pretty much optimum, using the setting the OMVL mixture up at 50% restricted, 2500 rpm static method, tweaking with the software then locking down the limits on the stepper motor to +- 30 idle and +- 40 out of idle. It runs and idles fine BUT I'm getting bored with having to use the petrol switch as a turbo button when I occasionally feel like caning it. There's a huge difference on full throttle max power demand between LPG and petrol...
I'm thinking it's running weak on LPG at the top end, and my tortuous logic is thinking that it's the locked down stepper motor (ok actuator) that's causing this, by, in effect, acting as a second "main jet" and only partially opening to its pre-set limit.
I've found by trial and error that the actuator limits need to be locked at at the low end, or it's a bitch to start (actuator closed= no gas), but any reason why I shouldn't set the actuator limits to fully open at the out of idle top end? That would just leave the vapouriser to take care of the demand.
I don't have access to a 4wd rolling road (that'd be too easy) so my next proposed move is to get a very long lead for the laptop so I can monitor the lambda, find a long hill where I can floor it for 10 seconds or so in top, remove the actuator limit at the top and monitor the lambda- tweaking the vapouriser to suit.
Anyone (Richard?!) got any views/ thoughts on this or know of an easier approach? I'm applying petrol logic to a gas problem, so I might be chasing my own arse on this, but if it is running weak on full demand, I need to sort it before it goes pop.