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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Just before putting my instrument panel back together, I thought I'd have a probe around with my borescope at the bits you can't see.
Found evidence of some historic oozing from heater matrix O rings, no current drips or signs of leakage.

enter image description here

In the opinion(s) of the forum, do I really have to jump in immediately and do the Audi conversion and take the car off the road for even longer, or can I just continue to monitor for a few weeks?
All opinions welcome, especially the ones that say "continue to monitor"!

By now we're all familiar with the use of the STC3064 cam kit and cutting off the extraneous bit of metal and we know these work well, BUT...
Getting the spring onto the plastic cam AND into it's correct locations can be a long process and hard on the fingertips and patience.
Here's the (well, an) answer- cable ties.
First the easy one. Use the first cable tie, with key in lock, to hold lock tab out of the way, like this:

enter image description here

Now for the spring. The problem is holding it under tension and connecting all the components at the same time, traditionally requiring 3 hands. The solution is to pre-tension the spring and use a cable tie to hold it under tension.
To do this (and I apologise that I don't have better photos, but again that would require 3 hands) put the spring onto a handy sized bar, screwdriver, whatever and prepare a small cable tie in a loop. put one end of loop under small arm of spring and press spring/ bar/ cable tie combo on table top.
Bring long arm of spring over into its tensioned position and tighten cable tie to hold that tension. Note you don't need as much tension as pictured.
Spring is now compressed and held compressed by cable tie.
Remove from bar and assemble handle/ cam components. They just drop into place easily without battling the spring.
Gently move handle to ensure everything assembled correctly, insert new roll pin, cut cable ties, spring releases.
Take other cable tie off lock arm
Test
Job done!
Pics of in progress solution:

enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here

To save it getting lost in my Resurrection thread, I thought I'd ask for some advice here on one particular aspect. Cleaning the plug and socket pins on the connectors. I'll use C0636 on the engine ECU as my example as that's the one I'll be focussing on tomorrow.

enter image description here

My normal way of cleaning these things is to just hit them with my fave spray- WD40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner, let it dry and that would be it, but I'd like to do something more physical as well to be sure.
How can get in/ what should I use to clean the individual pins and sockets. I don't want to get as drastic as actually removing individual wires from the connector, but does anyone have a favourite way of physically introducing something onto pins/ into sockets to help the spray cleaner do its stuff?
Only idea I have at the moment is to spray the connector then, rather than let the spray evaporate, make and unmake the connector several times with it still wet, then hit it with some clean dry air, then spray again with cleaner and let it dry.
Anyone have any better ideas?

May have to replace mine on the 2002 Motronic soon so doing some research. Anyone found a genuine Bosch one cheaper than this (£104.87 incl next day delivery) out there in the UK world?

Like a cheapskate, I bought 2 single coil packs for the SE rather than the bracketed version. Only problem is, the HT/ cylinder lead numbering is identical on each (1,2,3,4), which isn't a great help!

enter image description here

Do I just wire them as per the published RAVE picture?
enter image description here
The input plugs look identical in every respect so can't see any issue there.
Thanks in advance
Mark

Finally given in and ordered a gearbox/ transmission adaptor for my trolley jack. Always used my hydraulic motorbike lift in the past, but it's starting to look a bit secondhand as it doesn't like asymmetric loads. No point in ruining it as I suspect I'm going back to classic bike restoration in the future 'cos they take up less space and don't use so much welding stuff!

I'm still learning the Motronic Nano, but I thought I'd post these just to show how bad things currently are:
Run 1:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

PXXXX = PERMANENT VOLTAGE SUPPLY
FAULT DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO LOW
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION


P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 49 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0305 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 5 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 45 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 7 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 29 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0134 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 68 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0305 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 5 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0307 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 7 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


NA
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO LOW
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


NA
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL MISSING
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


NA
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL MISSING
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


Run 2:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0304 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0302 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1674 = IMMOBILISER - INCORRECT
CODE DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


Run 3:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0304 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0302 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1674 = IMMOBILISER - INCORRECT
CODE DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


Run 4:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0304 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0302 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1674 = IMMOBILISER - INCORRECT
CODE DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


Run 5:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0304 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0302 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1674 = IMMOBILISER - INCORRECT
CODE DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


Run 6:
NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0304 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0302 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 4 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 5 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION


P1674 = IMMOBILISER - INCORRECT
CODE DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

Is there any way of "proving" the EKA code without actually disabling the car and then seeing if it works? I have what LR tells me is the original EKA for the car, and the original lockset/ BECM (I think) ready to go back in. It would be nice to know that the EKA works before I have to use in anger. I do have a Nano, BTW and a late enough BECM/ ECU so that I can enter with Nano.

Gordon suggested that it might be useful to have a sticky where we can post details of people who we have proved (rather than who have suggested) they can provide a useful service, so I'll kick it off here with:
Duncan at FobFix.com. He turned around a very battered water damaged P38 fob in a couple of days, working, tested, recased and key number identified.
Worth getting in contact with, as long as you actually have a fob, no matter how battered or not working. He doesn't do new fobs or convert fobs from other P38's to work with yours so don't expect miracles, but if you have a non-working fob for your actual vehicle, well worth getting in touch with.

Love the new picture Gordon. Just needs a bit of holly and a tinsel frame :)
Merry Christmas and happy New Year to all...

Anyone know the size of the O ring that goes on the metal cooling pipe that plugs into inlet manifold?
No time before Xmas to order the genuine article and have it here so am going to have to go for a best guess and the original's in 3 bits.
The groove is 19 dia mm x 3mm. OD of pipe is 22.67mm
O ring looks like it could be 2.5mm
Long shot, I know...

Changing the belt on my 02 today noticed that the A/C pulley is a bit noisy with a bit of play on it's bearings when giving it a spin. My 95 has a nice quiet one with no play, which is not used at the moment cos I've put a short belt on the car due to a firkin great rock hole in the condenser.
So, are they (the pulley and clutch assy) interchangeable? Seems too good to be true that I could do such a simple no-cost, no re-gas fix!

Thought I'd share my musings on the new car, as I work my way through all of its issues. and there are many!
Firstly, dealing with missfires reported on #5 and #8. I'm guessing these are related to the oil leak/ gush from somewhere at the top of the engine. Everything under the bonnet is oily and old looking anyway:
enter image description here
So... into the top end.
What a pain in the @rse getting the upper inlet and rocker covers off. So much plumbing and wiring in the way, as well as having to clean everything before exposing the innards
enter image description here
Major moan- I have a huge amount of sockets that I've amassed over the years, of all shapes and sizes and drive sizes, but did I have a bi-hex 8mm 1/4 drive socket to get the rocker covers off? I did not, and they're not easy to get hold of at short notice. Ended up paying £7 on Amazon Prime, for 1 tiny socket.Most I've ever paid for a socket of any size!
Anyway, rocker covers off. Rocker gaskets had deteriorated into inflexible bakelite like material, so there's the top end leak! What is surprising is the pristine state of the heads and valve gear. After 100 000 ish miles since Turner tophat engine went in, I was expecting a blackened mess, but instead found this:
enter image description here
So, today, leak-down test all cylinders then back together with new leads and plugs
Onwards...

According to How Many Left, there were only 298 P38 Vogue SE A models ever produced (or registered, anyway) for UK market.
In Q4 2015 there were 248 left on the road or SORN.
Haven't yet been able to dig deeper to see what the total production run was. There's not much info around the model out there on the web.
Interesting to know what I have resting in an oily misfiring puddle in the workshop anyway.

While compiling the servicing info for the new toy I found that the Zavoli/ Alesi system is nearly 11 years old and has covered 167000 miles with no attention apart from the occasional filter change. With many moving parts, solenoids etc I imagine some of them are a bit tired.
Suggestions welcome on what to change, ways to test etc.
Thanks

So, with the imminent arrival (yeah, right!) of my new car and a "What would you like for Christmas that you haven't already bought yourself?" request, my thoughts turned to putting in a Bluetooth Grom like this:
http://gromaudio.co.uk/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-652.html#Description
The system in the car is a gold plated High End Alpine with remote CD changer- an even rarer than usual working currently DSP amp to drive the centre dash etc extra speakers like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331926540611?
and with Carin III Nav.
Until the amp goes pop I want to keep the standard audio and nav, when I'll probably do something with an Android unit similar to Marty's, but anyway
The Grom kit says only compatible with units without nav and Grom themselves are unable to tell me why or guarantee that it'll work as they show it as non-compatible.
Anyone fitted one with the nav system successfully?

So, I'm having the new P38 trailered down to me. It's likely to involve an overnight stop in a locked storage facility. Seller hasn't much of a grasp of tech stuff so can't ask him to do anything TOO demanding to prepare it!
If transported with EAS active it'll be constantly trying to self level and battery will probably be flat by time I get it. My thoughts to transport are:
Once on trailer, don't lock. Keep fob outside of car.
Lower to Access
Pull EAS timer relay
Secure to trailer via wheelstraps rather than tie down points
Worst that will happen is suspension depressurises if leaky bag or something and it rattles around on bump stops all the way
Thoughts?

Opening Time seems to have been throwing a 500 error since v early this morning. Oily and Electric OK!

The threads and pictures of Marty and Ferry's shiny engine builds have got me slightly jealous, so I thought I'd share my latest build.
Not an engine, but a precursor- my new workshop!
The barn where I am at the moment is great, but

  1. It's not mine
  2. I have to drive there
  3. The friend who lets me use the barn is probably getting fed up with me spreading my stuff all over the place
  4. Its a bugger keeping everything clean and me warm in winter
    so having a small mountain of earth up the side of the house it seems to make perfect sense to move that mountain and replace it with a workshop.
    enter image description here
    Today, the fun begins- the groundworks
    Have to move this:
    enter image description here
    To here:
    enter image description here
    Using these:
    enter image description here
    In theory, should have the mountain moved today. Hopefully the bits I don't want to move will stay where they are until I can get the raft and retaining walls poured
    Fingers crossed!

I'm getting quite a few 502's when moving around in the site. Is it just me, or......?