Young guy at my local Kwik**it had trouble understanding how to adjust the P38 drag link & track rod !! I explained it to him, and the manager (listening in) told him I was right & to do what I said !!

You will still need to use a dehumidifier for a few days to dry it out, ideally with the carpet lifted as much as possible. The only other way is to take the interior out, and hag the underlay indoors for a week !!

I had to do the remove & hang method on a Z3 last year. Took 10 days for the underlay to dry properly.

If you usually run on LPG, maybe the £20 of petrol has lifted something from the tank bottom ?

Does Nanocom say which cylinder is misfiring ? If so, I would take that one out & do a bench clean with the 9V battery & carb cleaner.

Marty, thanks from me as well. Second filter arrived last week, so now my project car sleeps properly & battery no discharging anymore.

My props started doing this recently. With four axle stands under, it was easy to fell the loose UJ on each. Only a few hours work to remove the props & change the UJ's.

Could be the oil pressure a bit low ? Just take the pressure switch out & use a gauge to check it.

Cam & followers should be ok, but some do fail early. Definitely use the stethoscope to see if the noise is top, middle or bottom. Maybe take the rocker covers off & measure rocker gaps ?

For the pump issue, you need to work through the system logically.

If the ECU is trying to run the pump, check the relay & compressor wiring.
-- Bridge the relay & trigger the pump manually. Manual pump jumper
-- If there's 12V at the compressor connector, but it doesn't run, then suspect the motor brushes.

If the ECU shows intermittent compressor overheat, suspect the thermal switch wires. The wire is simply crimped to the PCB inside the pump & can become intermittent. See this video & look at the orange wire. The crimp becomes loose over time from vibration. All my pumps have this wire soldered for reliability !!

Think about when the ECU stops & starts the pump. It requires pressure switch to be open (i.e. low tank pressure), and the exhaust valve to be closed, (i.e. pump is off during lowering). Pump will run when the ECU is trying to raise the car.

Have you actually checked the pump output ? Leave drivers door or tailgate open. Then clear all faults & run the engine. Pump should run until the tank is full & triggers the pressure switch. If the pump cannot fill the tank it needs a refurb.

It could also be dodgy brushes inside the pump, or even an intermittent thermal sensor connection. The sensor wire is crimped to a tag on the PCB which can fail. All of my pumps have it soldered inside !!

Looking at RAVE it appears the DSP system uses Left & Right balanced feeds from the radio, plus the control signals. The DSP then drives the speakers in each door directly. The subwoofer amp has a balanced feed from the DSP. If you're using an after market radio, then the DSP becomes redundant, and the new radio needs to feed the speaker directly.

For the High-Line system with door amplifiers, then you have several options:

1. Remove the amps & feed the speakers direct from the radio.
2. Feed the door amps & sub using the "resistor attenuator" bodge. Some peeps find it works, but other don't. Probably depends on the radio model.
3. Feed the door amps & sub using line-outputs. This can also cause hum, whine or buzz, but also depends on the radio grounding.
4. Add balancing transformers between the radio line-outputs & the door amps. No hum, whine or buzz.

In case it helps, this is how the balancing works. Balanced vs Unbalanced

FYI I used these transformers

If it's 100-150Hz, then your "whine" is probably hum & caused by using un-balanced line-outs on the head unit to drive amplifiers with a balanced input.

My P38 has a 2-din tough screen in dash, with the actual head unit under the passenger seat. I used 5 x audio balancing transformers on the line-outputs to feed my door amps using the original twisted pair wiring. Result = zero hum, buzz, etc. because anything getting on the wiring is cancelled out by the balancing !!

Info Here

The reason GEMS & Thor use a different thermostat type & position to the Classic is to allow warm coolant through the heater before the thermostat opens, hence cabin gets warmer quicker.

I use a vacuum pump on the bleed hose from radiator to the header tank whilst filling, and them keep the vacuum going as the engine warms up. Seems to always get all the air out with no problems.

Some peeps suggest parking it uphill, or jacking the front up, so the air tends to move towards the rad.

+1 on using a screwdriver to close the door latch, while door is open. As long as the BECM thinks the door is shut, then it will let you "lock" the car for sleep tests.

It's also the best way to test latches, because you cannot get locked out, and can still remove the latch to change motors and/or microswitches.

I took the dash out and did the Audi core method on mine. Sorted the heater box flap shafts at same time.

Surely the easier method is to make sure the correct engine type is selected in the BECM. The BECM converts the analog reading from temp sender & fuel sensor to a value from 0-255, which then drives the gauges. It's more likely the A-D conversion changes than the gauge settings ?

But then there are many different instrument pack part numbers

I also use cruise on my GEMS 4.6 for most motorway journeys. At 70 the trip generally gives 20-21 as long as I reset it to clear the local trips first.

Thanks. Ordered one with contacts. Will update when fitted & see if the issues gets resolved.

I suspect my HEVAC connector socket contacts have the usual "gone loose with age" problem. Mine mainly affects the passenger vents so not often an issue for my6 side of the car !!

I also get the book symbol, which usually clears after cleaning the 16-pin connector. Still trying to figure out how to pull the socket contacts from the housing to tighten them. Ideally I would prefer to replace the connector, but cannot find one, except on 2nd hand motors.

Info is all in RAVE

**Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge**
The engine coolant temperature gauge sensor has
the capability to sense from –40 
 C to +130 
 C. Petrol
and Diesel resistance valves are different.
Both Petrol and Diesel sensors are interfaced to the
Instrument Cluster (Z142) via the BeCM (Z238). The
resistance value then being represented by an A/D
data transfer generating the required angular
deflection on this gauge. 

**Fuel Gauge**
When the fuel tank level is low (“E”), the resistance
value of the gauge sensor is 270W for petrol and
diesel engines. As the fuel level increases, the
resistance of the sensor decreases. When the fuel
tank is full, the resistance value of the sensor for
petrol engines is 19W and for diesel engines 25.8W .
When the fuel gauge sensors resistance value
increases to 175W (9 liters/2.25 US gallons, the low
fuel warning light will illuminate to warn of the fuel
status. Both Petrol and Diesel sensors are interfaced
to the Instrument Cluster (Z142) via the BeCM
(Z238). The resistance values then being
represented by an A/D data transfer generating the
required angular deflection on the gauge.

Bolt wrote:

Is this an NAS spec, or UK, or???
If you are here, where we have the wheel on the correct side (as opposed to the right side) then I would suspect

I am sure Gilbert, when he wakes up, will have some insight as well as a dig at LHD vehicles and their owners!

It all started with the Romans. Gotta keep that sword handy in the right hand !!