Marty,
I'm gonna be in Ferndown Mon 25th to Wed 27th. Could divert to your lockup on my way home Thurs if that works ? Weds PM might be a challenge but depends if the carpet fitters have finished thier 2-day job.
Gilbert,
Happy to split if that helps you (assuming the shafts come out easily !! ).
Pete
Martyuk wrote:
Pete12345 wrote:
Marty, I could be interested in a diff. Finally got my project 1998 on the road back in November, but getting some drivetrain whine. I suspect the rear diff, but not sure yet.
I'm likely to be travelling from Langley to Ferndown various times in March & April, so a swing by Marlborough for half a day would be doable.
Pete
Hi Pete,
No worries - if it's the rear one, then it comes free with a rear axle.... haha.I might be able to split it out, but don't have all the tools there that I used to, as I shipped most of my things back already, I think I have basic tools in the back of my RR there and a few in the garage at home still.
I would be happy to do a deal on either just diff or the axle, even though I only need a spare diff. Aren't the diffs the same front & rear on P39 ?
FYI, My old project P38 is finally on the road, but getting drivetrain whine. My plan was to have a refurbed diff ready to swap, & then refurb the one I take out (eventually doing them all in both cars).
Marty, I could be interested in a diff. Finally got my project 1998 on the road back in November, but getting some drivetrain whine. I suspect the rear diff, but not sure yet.
I'm likely to be travelling from Langley to Ferndown various times in March & April, so a swing by Marlborough for half a day would be doable.
Pete
The rear of an 8mm drill is god for seating the o-rings. Also check the airlines for scratches as these can be leak points..
40cm one from Amazon ? Best check the inside wheel measurements first !!
Chrisp38 wrote:
I've seen a post somewhere where someone has found a stainless steel pie dish from ikea (iirc) that was near as dammit identical.
Bit of cutting, bit of drilling and was perfect.
I found that out after I had sand blasted mine and cut out the rot/welded in new sections. The brace is easy to knock up, fitted it all in with ss button head bolts.
Possibly landyzone? For the ikea dish mod?
Nanocom isn't great for the Lambda sensor voltages, simple because it's a bit slow, but you should still see the voltages changing. The other values can be read ok though.
I use a generic bluetooth diagnostic dongle when I need to check the O2 sensors, simply because I can view the flip-flop on my iPhone !!
1.4m x 1.4m is almost certainly not going to fit. Put it upside down on the roof ?
Gilbertd wrote:
I've managed to get a 8 x 4 (2.44 x 1.22 m) sheet of plywood in the back of a P38. The rear tailgate opening is 1.2m but with the back seats folded down, you should be able to get it in on the diagonal.
Front Seats well forward ??
Many years ago I needed to replace the heater o-rings & decided to fix the blend & distribution motors at same time, so decided to take dash out. Good job I did because I found a crack where the o-rings seat at the matrix input. No amount of changing them would have sealed it, so I did the Audi core change instead.
Do a coolant combustion gas check. If fluid turns a greenish-yellow then it's either liners, gasket failed again, or warped head. Failed liners are a lot less common that many "engineering" sites say. Generally it seems to be the US focussed forums more often !!
Did you check the heads for flatness when you did the gaskets ?
Try "jpeg" instead of "jpg" for the file extension ??
Same problem for me on both P38 with locked BECM. It takes Nanocom two attempts to connect !!
The same comment about unlocked BECM is in their documents !!
Hmm. I guess I should get a used eBay one just in case.
ok thanks, useful info mate. Since I posted, I have cleaned the TPS connections, and the GEMS ECU connectors. Voltage seems smooth from 700mV to about 4.5V when I operate the throttle manually (engine off). The TPS appears ok, but maybe there's a dead spot my DMM doesn't spot. Don't have analog meter anymore, so might try my Hantek scope later in the week.
Are the GEMS & Thor TPS the same ? Prices seem to differ wildly.
Car did the high idle thing again this morning. It started with idle about 1100rpm, but after a 5 miles drive went up to 2800 again. What's the likely cause of the Idle Reference going to 65280 ?
Cannot figure how to attached files, but they are in this Google Drive folder.
Recording while idle was 2800rpm.
NANOCOM - GEMS.APP - GEMS input file AIR-IDLE
Current throttle pos (V) Stored throttle pos (V) Adaptive air flow (kg/h) Current air flow (kg/h) Intake air temperature (C) Air flow sensor (V) Secondary air status (on/off) Curr. run line position Long term adaptive Idle Short term adaptive Idle Idle speed reference (rpm) Idle air control valve (%) Engine speed (rpm) Gear box retard (%) Calculated load value (%) Gear box status (D/P)
0.72 0.66 -0.85 64.79 5 2.14 4 25 21 58 65280 163 2723 17.6 17.54 N/P
0.72 0.66 -0.85 64.79 5 2.14 4 25 21 58 65280 156 2638 17.6 17.54 N/P
0.72 0.66 -0.85 64.79 6 2.13 4 25 21 58 65280 157 2650 17.6 17.93 N/P
Recording after Adaptive Reset.
NANOCOM - GEMS.APP - GEMS input file AIR-IDLE
Current throttle pos (V) Stored throttle pos (V) Adaptive air flow (kg/h) Current air flow (kg/h) Intake air temperature (C) Air flow sensor (V) Secondary air status (on/off) Curr. run line position Long term adaptive Idle Short term adaptive Idle Idle speed reference (rpm) Idle air control valve (%) Engine speed (rpm) Gear box retard (%) Calculated load value (%) Gear box status (D/P)
0.73 0.72 0 21.59 13 1.42 4 22 34 32 625 54 627 17.2 28.07 N/P
0.73 0.72 0 21.59 13 1.42 4 22 34 31 625 54 650 17.6 28.07 N/P
1.63 0.73 0 39.59 14 1.82 4 22 32 47 625 69 1364 17.2 21.84 N/P
0.97 0.73 0 46.79 14 1.92 4 22 32 47 625 69 1081 17.6 23.39 N/P
0.73 0.73 0 21.59 14 1.41 4 22 32 25 625 46 638 16.79 25.34 N/P
I had a similar issue yesterday. Car drove fine on Saturday to Milton Keynes & back (about 58 miles each way). Then on Sunday it was fine going to shops, but starting to head home the idle went up to 2500-2800rpm. Nanocom reported zero faults and as far as I could tell all values were ok. TPS & IACV seemed to be showing sensible values so got it home. Then it occurred to me to try resetting adaptive values, and the idle instantly dropped back to normal.
I guess I need to do proper checks on the TPS & IACV, etc., Engine has only done 200 miles since I rebuilt it, so the inlet & throttle body is unlikely to be clogged already.
Compressor needs to stop if any of the corners are being lowered. Ait cannot enter & exit at the same time because the corner valves share a common main gallery in the valve block. If the car isn't level, it will cycle between raising some & lowering the others until targets are reached.
It's explained in the System Info Doc.
Average MPG & fuel cost for the journey ??
AFAIK, BlackBox recommends having the Nanocom cable always connected first. . . . . .and yes mine stays connected as well !!