Bolt wrote:
Is this an NAS spec, or UK, or???
If you are here, where we have the wheel on the correct side (as opposed to the right side) then I would suspectI am sure Gilbert, when he wakes up, will have some insight as well as a dig at LHD vehicles and their owners!
It all started with the Romans. Gotta keep that sword handy in the right hand !!
If you do manage to make good NRV's, there could be lots of people interested in buying them.
I got a quote from Dunlop Systems back in 2021 for them, but decided not to invest £500 plus VAT !!
Quote: "The part number you require is E 3 1133 00 36 @ £10.30 each. There would be an MOQ of 50 pieces on this"
Pete
Also remember that NRV-2 is always open when there's tank pressure, so generally has the least wear on the tip & o-ring. Examine them all and put the best one in NRV-1 position.
Grab this document. It has nice diagrams of how the valve block works.
Also the diaphragm valve does not have a separate disc. It should be bonded to the rubber, so if yours doesn't rep0lace the diaphragm. Diaphragm valve picture
Definitely different V8 ECU's for each market. Presumably this is because they are programmed for zero, two or four O2 sensors ?
There's only two possible paths for tank air when the system is switched off:
Scenario 2 is very unlikely, so I would suspect NRV-1.
When I did my 4.0 project rebuild, I did a simple mod to the exhaust manifolds. enter link description here
Now it's possible to undo the downpipe studs, and remove the heads complete with the manifolds !! Then heatshields, etc can be done on the bench.
While it's apart check & replace core plugs. They could well be corroded & potential leak point.
Do you have something like a Hantek multi-channel USB scope available ? If so hook up the 4 sensors & see how the signals look at speed.
When I'm refurbishing the pumps, I generally run the motor after taking the piston & con-rod off the motor spindle. That way you can hear & feel if there's bearing wear as well.
or make a sturdy frame of similar dimensions to the airbag mounts in the car.
It could also be the little pump, hoses or vacuum valve inside the box with the actuator. ECU generally just need re-soldering & possibly capacitor replacement.
Mine has intermittent operation of the vacuum valve, so fails to engage.
I'm sure someone will disagree or correct me, but on the point of heat of LED vs Regular bulbs, surely adding resistors to fool the BECM, means the same wattage is still being used & dissipated ?
I fitted these on mine back in Dec 2021 when doing the ball joints. Been fine so far & £15 each..
eBay ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Fits Land Rover Range (1994-2002)
Strange. Will compare with mine later. At moment diagnostic socket is soaking in white vinegar to clean the corrosion. Was working a week or two ago, but now cannot connect to any ECU. 🙃 Been a bit damp in the air lately, & too much working from home.
RAVE says you can disable or enable the automatic interior light operation. Owners Handbook in the "interior" section.
I always get the "invalid fault code" with both Nanocom & EAS-Unlock, even when the system is working perfectly.
My guess is there are codes in the ECU that were never figured out by Blackbox or RSW Solutions. Apparently Blackbox used an old T4 system to understand the ECU's, but you never know what else LR put in there. Would the ECU code to be disassembled & lots of decoding to figure it out, but probably not worth it.
Mirafiori-Max wrote:
My conclusion from going through all the data:
- Some of the time the system works as is intended, user inputs become the correct valve actions which lead to correct heights. (log EAS1)
- Some of the time (usually resulting in an EAS error) the user inputs become the correct valve actions but do not lead to the heights changing as expected. The only explanation that comes to my mind is that the valve actions of the ECU do not actually take place as intended, therefore the target height is not achieved. That would lead me to believe that the driver pack (or cable connections between ECU and valves) does not drive the valves properly. Since the ECU has no feedback if the valve is actually opening/closing or not.
- Another thing is that the on/off of the compressor is not in sync with the opening/closing of the pressure switch. Does that have to be?
At least its working some of the time, so all components are actually functional.
Definitely check the pin & socket contacts inside the connector under the valve block. As I said take one pin out of the housing, and try it into each socket contact. Bet you a pint or two that some are loose !!
Generally if the pressure switch show tank low, then the pump will cycle on & off each time the ECU does even small height adjustments. Only if the tank is full & pressure switch closed will the ECU do height adjustments without pump coming on . . . and then only for small adjustments.
I definitely noticed that Nanocom often shows strange combinations, such as pump running after pressure switch closes, but I do suspect it's simply the delay in reading the data. Consequently the pump is already running, but Nano doesn't yet know that the pressure switch has changed state.
Would be useful to know what your stored targets actually are ?? Was the change from Motorway to Standard, or Std to High mode.
Also the speed & valve status during the drive would help.
It certainly appears that the ECU commanded a height change about third of the way in & target heights went up accordingly, but the actual sensor values stayed in the same range for a while. Then after a few mins the heights actually increased. Would be interesting to see the valve status & confirm this.
Also was the pump trying to fill the tank, hence not enough air ?
Regarding to Driver to Solenoid connector, you need to take one pin out, and test the tightness of each socket contact. Even if they are clean, the sockets do lose their grip on the pins & become intermittent.
I agree swapping sensors over might give more info, but they seem to be working within normal variation to me.
Lastly, remember Nanocom can only read the data relatively slowly, so can miss data if the ECU is doing stuff in-between the readings. Nanocom grabs all data every cycle, rather than just what is needed for the trace. Lots of useless data is read.
As you have Nanocom, do a recording to SD card while driving a few miles. This might show a sensor dead spot.
It definitely looks like the car has gone "Extended Mode" which is a failsafe if the ECU thinks the chassis is grounded. Simply if the ECU sees no change in height when trying to adjust, it assumes it's grounded and extends fully !!
The other thing that causes the same issue is bad connections between the driver pack & solenoid valves. This triggers the same extended mode to happen. The connector is underneath the valve block, so that has to come out to check it.
Additionally, accessing the HEVAC diagnostics is always temperamental. Nanocom docs also mention that it can be more difficult if BECM is unlocked. I have found this one works best with engine running.
eBay items have a royal Mail "collect from home" option provided you buy the postage via ebay. Save a trip to PO.
Also you can also end the item early if it sells elsewhere.