Bolt, glad you got it sorted.
I didn't think the check the clutch switch status because it's an Auto and cruise works.
I would suspect a CDL microswitch problem, so the BECM is getting confused whether the car is locked or unlocked. does your spare fob have a key blade ?? Surely that would or should open the door ?
Having accidentally locked my keys inside while changing a dead battery recently, I now know a couple of things.
Sounds like you might have super-locked it by pressing the fob twice ?
Just an FYI,. Put my Nanocom on my P38 that has the newer cruise ECU mod to check what triggers the "Disabled" status.
Basically it's showing that cruise is not engaged. Nothing changes it while stationary, but with the car over 20mph (or so), when pressing the SET button that status changed from Disabled to Enabled !! Weirdly with the AC switched off on the dash button, I get the expected communication error, but the status still shows disabled !!
Yet another odd interpretation by BBS. It should be something like Disengaged & Engaged or Active ?
I'm sure there was LR info somewhere about checking the viscous, but cannot find it. However with one front wheel jacked up, you should be able to slowly turn the front prop using a pry-bar inserted into the UJ spider ?
That said, an extra set of axle stands to put all 4 wheels in the air is cheap enough, and much easier on your back & arms.
If you still have the original LR injectors, consider cleaning them so they have a nice spray pattern & keeping them as spares. Return the junk set to Amazon.
I just put the car on four axle stands when I did mine. If the bolt or nut at each end doesn't lock against the flange flats, then they are worn.
Also, if you buy the correct tool, then they come off really easily, provided you turn the prop the the best angle.
I installed the later ECU in one of my 1998 P38. If I get time later will have a look to see what Nanocom says.
In the meantime, this is what my 1999 RAVE says about "system disable":
The cruise control system can be disabled in one of
four ways:
The Cruise Control Switch (X115) is put in the 0 position, removing the BeCM (Z238) power from the Cruise Control ECU (Z121) and vacuum pump, and erasing the set speed memory.
The RES/DECEL Switch is depressed, signalling the Cruise Control ECU (Z121) via the Inverter/Converter (Z249) to disengage the system.
The brake pedal is depressed and a vacuum valve in the Switch Vent Valve opens (X112). This vents vacuum to the actuator valve and releases the throttle.
The Voltage applied to the Cruise Control ECU (Z121) terminal 1 is interrupted, causing the Cruise Control ECU (Z121) to turn off the vacuum pump and de–energize the vacuum solenoid valve. This voltage path is interrupted when:
The BeCM (Z238), which monitors these signals, will then remove power from C1279/Pin 18.
I have noticed the same left-right wierdness with Nanocom. Sent them a message on the Nano forums about it, but never got any reply.
I too have odd behaviour in one P38 with left blend. The motor & pot definitely work fine when powering from a 9V battery, but calibration & the manual check in the Nano utility always fails. The 16-pin connector has been replaced with new, because the contacts definitely become intermittent with age.
Had to replace the driver chip in a couple of HEVAC's but now I have a bench test setup including a spare heater box & good working set of motors.
HEVAC Bench Test
Always take the fill plug out first. Only when that's removed successfully, then take drain plug out. Same applies for gearboxes, etc.
20w50 might help or might not.
It depends where the tapping is coming from. Yes it could be the camshaft or tappets worn, but also blocked oilways, worn rockers, etc. If it started 28k miles after the rebuild, it raises some questions about whether they changed the camshaft, etc ? Could also be low oil pressure due to worn oil pump, or weak pressure relief spring ? Do you have paperwork listing what was replaced during the rebuild ?
After I rebuilt my 4.0 it has been a bit noisy at start-up for the 3000miles since the rebuild, but the noise stops after a few mins once the oil gets around the engine.
You could take the upper & lower manifolds off, and then be able to inspect the camshaft, without dismantling any further ? For the tappets, you would need to unbolt the rocker shaft & then take each one out to check it.
Found similar on my bench test when the dummy ambient sensor was not connected. Even after connecting, the HEVAC needed faults clearing & power cycle to get the temp to update. According to RAVE later HEVAC show an initial reading on power up, but don't update until the vehicle reaches 15mph.
Unless someone disassembles the firmware, we will probably never know how the HECAV combines all the inputs to decide where to adjust the flaps !!
Don't think it matters that much. RAVE just says this:
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (X311)
This is a resistive sensor, i.e. the change in
resistance is related to change in air temperature.
The signal from the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
(X311) is used to retard the ignition timing if the air
temperature rises above 55 C.
The old Morgan "GEMS by Poole" doc I have says this:
In the event of failure the Intake Air Temperature will be used at start, and then ramped
to the nominal operating temperature over some time. The failure “may not be evident
to the driver” but there may be a hot restart problem. The fault will illuminate the MIL
light on NAS vehicles.
Definitely have a good look under the sill plate. There's been several folks had issues with those looms over the years.
Luckily mine are ok (or seem to be), but I did find an old Motorola tracking system under the carpet & underlay after a heater core disaster many years back.
First step is probably to check all the other fuses. Then clean the diagnostic port as they often get water down there from the scuttle & cabin filters..
It does also depend on the firmware & Carplay app version in the android unit. Most of the Chinese tablets & Head Units use an app called Zlink, but there are different versions with variable success rate.
You might need to contact the supplier, and see if there's a firmware update for it ? Otherwise, if it doesn't work as advertised, then you're entitled to a refund.
What processor & firmware version is it ? Look in the Android system menus for things like Firmware Name, MCU (drives all the custom hardware in it), Model Number & CPU type. Then search for the same model on XDA Forums. Most likely someone will have the same unit & issues, and maybe the solution !!
Maybe the title should be changed to "What Oil for my Boat" . . . . ???
nigelbb wrote:
I also have an occasional but persistent crackle from the speakers in the passenger door. I'm not sure whether it's the wiring, the FM transmitter, a speaker, the HK DSP amplifier or whatever that is the origin of the crackling. It would be annoying to fit the GROM bluetooth device but still have a crackle from the speakers.
The crackle from door amps either side is most likely corrosion in the front footwell connectors.
Clive603 wrote:
iPhone displays a code number that it expects the tablet to show. Which never happens. Attempting to pair willy nilly leads to both iPhone and tablet reporting being connected but the tablet stays stuck on the connection management screen instead of displaying the use CarPlay message to indicate proper pairing.
Do it the other way round. Set the Tablet into pairing mode, and then find that in the iPhone Bluetooth settings. someone on another Android Stereo forum had the same issue !!
Not sure what current the Nanocom draws in the standby state, but would be worth checking.
I would suspect intermittent power of ground to the BECM is your likely cause ? Remember power needs both 12V & Ground for any current to flow.
aah @181818 I'm guessing you are "18daleroad" on LZ ?
As I said on there, did you look on eBay ?? Also John Craddock have some of them.