Just a final note to the issue of replacing the waterpump and power steering pipes.
Everything was done and worked perfectly, but I wanted to do something about the clips that hold the pipes under the radiator, and I had used tie-wraps to hold the pipes in place under the rad. So to send one of the remains of one of the clips to a 3D printer I cut off the tie-wraps, and as I wasn't driving the car I left it like that.
But, guess what, two days later Madam wanted to take some chairs to sons house, and puts them in the back of the P38. I was a bit annoyed but I agreed, forgetting that I had left the power steering pipes loose under the rad. And...... yes, dumb-ass drove the car, and as I arrived at sons house I saw a funny looking stream on the road behind the car. Then, suddenly, the power steering wasn't power steering any more. One of the pipes had moved and had been cut by the power steering pump pulley.
So, off with the newly fitted power steering pipe and another trip to the hydraulic repair guys. Again, they did a really good job, and did it while I waited. I got home and refitted the damn thing, refilled the reservoir, and we were in business again, after making sure to secure the pipes again with new tie-wraps.
Therefore, a hard lesson learned - having fixed the original problem of a leaking pipe I compounded the problem by forgetting to refit new tie-wraps when I took the old ones off. Fortunately, getting the pipe repaired didn't cost very much so I think that I got off lightly !
Pierre3.
Hi, sorry for not responding earlier, I was preoccupied !!
I think that I would be inclined to agree with leolito, and stick with the original radiator. I don't go galluping up off-road mountain tracks, and I found [so far !] that even in the recent very hot weather my car was OK sitting in crawling speed motorway traffic, and didn't rise over "top dead centre" on the temperature gauge. I might think about getting a spare one to keep in the garage, but, having thought about it for a few days I don't think that I really need to spent a few hundred pounds on an aluminium radiator that, for me, would be overkill.
Pierre3.
Hi, I am thinking about buying a Direnza rad for my 2001 DHSE P38. However, looking at the Direnza website, and a couple of E-bay adverts the only radiator that appears to be available is one for a manual 94-99 diesel. On the E-bay website I notice that someone asked if it will suit a 2001 auto but the answer can't be found as the page is no longer available.
I wonder whether anyone can confirm that the radiator advertised, for a manual 2.5 TD 94-99 P38, would fit a 2001 auto 2,5 TD P38 ?
As my old donkey is used for road use only do I really need an aluminium radiator ? I still have the standard unit in the car [I don't know if it has ever been changed] so maybe I would be better just buying a new, standard radiator as it is probably likely to outlast me, and the car.
Pierre3.
KCR, when you say the "finisher material" are you refering to the push-on trim surround that holds the roof panel to the sunroof opening ? I know that I would have been able to buy a new one in Lightstone, two years ago. It just so happened that I was able to clean the surround with some soap and water, very gently, and it has been perfect.
I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a finishing clip fitted between the ends of the surround, but it looks much better with it than without it.
Pierre3.
This is my sunroof surround:
The diagram that I posted could well be a Discovery 2 sunroof, I can't remember where I found it, only that it is a Jaguar Landrover image. I agree with Richard about JLR, they will usually get back to you if an item becomes available, even if it takes several months. They did this for me when I was looking for a new drivers side door handle, complete with original key barrel, and after two months or so I got an email to say that they had one in stock. Mind you, this was just before Covid so I don't know how things are now.
I still think that 3D printing may be the only way of getting a new one, unless a breaker has one. Unfortunately, I have found that breakers don't tend to remove carefully and keep small, NLA, plastic fittings, they always seem to yank them off with a hammer or something, assumimg no-one would ever want the small, breakable bits. Really disappointing.
Pierre3.
Hi there, I really don't know where the parts image came from originally. Looking at it, this evening, I am having a job believe that it is for a P38. Just the image part, showing the rails, don't quite look like those on my P38.
I have sent an email to JG Wade on the off chance that they may still have one of the finishers in stock, but I have a recollection that I got the last one that they had, and it was in a very old package. My finisher clip thingy is positioned over the head of the front seat passenger, kind of on the side of the sunroof, not as shown on the diagram.
Failing that, I can only think that either a P38 dismantler, or see if it could be 3D plastic printed. I am getting the power steering pipe clips, that are under the radiator, 3D printed, although with a somewhat different design.
I do think that this is something that could be hard to find, unfortunately, and it would really bug me if it was missing.
Pierre3.
Hi, I think that the correct number for the sunroof finisher is AWR2191LUM, or at least it is for a 2001 P38. I managed to find a new one in Lightstone, from Landrover in Belgium, last year. My sunroof seal surround was in good condition but the clip-in finisher was missing. I did spend a couple of months looking, and it came up with LR in Brussels.
Pierre3.
Edit: I have been searching for the original receipt for the finisher, and I found the following:
Range Rover P38 Sunroof Moon Sunroof Moulding Molding Trim Seal BTR2697LUM
This would correspond with the information by KCR. I will just have to keep looking and see if I can find out where I bought mine from, and under which part number. Sorry for any confusion, but I am now confused myself !!!
I am even more confused, having searched through receipt files -
I bought it from JG Wade Fils, Belgium.
Hi guys, thanks for all the advice. I have re-filled the cooling system with Exol Opticool anti-freeze, using 30% anti-freeze/70% water. I have been out for a couple of runs in the traffic and the temperature is nice and steady, and is maintaining the level in the reservoir. So, happy days.
Again, thanks for the advice on degreaser on tarmac. The thing is, I have a large can of Gunk, 5 litres I think, and rather than paying out more for degreasers like Virosol I will use the Gunk first. If that doesn't do the job then I will probably follow Richards suggestion and get the Screwfix degreaser as there is a branch fairly local to me.
Pierre3.
I always thought that T-Cut was pretty good, but Richards use of it is amazing, you'd think that nothing had ever happened to the P38. I must recommend it to a friend of mine who wrote of his Ford Focus in a rally, recently. It could be his saviour 😂 .
Pierre3.
Marshall8hp, I agree that using rubber hose is a good workaround. I will see what the 3D printer guy says first, and then go to using some rubber hose and tie-wraps, while using the old clip bases to provide the distancing.
I think that I will have to put the car up on a couple of ramps, as well as being on full lift on the suspension, and just get under it with the brush.
The only thing that I am concerned about is whether any of these cleaners, whether Gunk, Virosol, or any other degreaser, will mark the tarmac on my drive. I never gave it any thought last year when I got the drive tarmaced, but it was a lot less that getting granite setts, or limestone slabs put down. Anyway, limestone needs to be cleaned every year where we live, because it goes green very quickly. The granite setts not so much so. Tarmac was only half the cost of the limestone or granite setts.
Pierre3.
Richard, I agree with you there, I had two tie wraps holding them against the old clip bases !
It would be very handy if I can get them 3D printed, but that also depends on the cost, as well. I will post the results here !
Pierre3.
I'm with Morat on this - I have got in touch with a guy who does 3D printing. I have sent him the pictures and an approximation of the pipe sizes, so I hope that he will be able to make up the missing curved sections.
The problem with trying to use parts from elsewhere, as I have found to my own cost before, is that, unless you are very lucky, the parts won't do the job properly. I am quite particular in trying to replace lost or broken parts with original parts. In this case you couldn't really use something else because the two halves are different diameters, one is about 15mm and the other half is about 10-12mm and the whole thing needs to sit squarely on the lug under the radiator.
I will start to ring some of the bigger breakers on Monday, rather than relying on the internet, at least the guys can be pushed into a definitive answer - yes or no. There is a guy in West Wales, quite well known for breaking P38's so I am sure that he must have 3 or 4 of the clips. He has about 20 P38's in his yard. I am just surprised that it is so hard to get a couple of them, them must be like gold dust !
Pierre3.
Hi, I am on the hunt for a couple of hard to get items - two or three power steering pipe clips that are located on the two lugs that are sitting under the radiator. Unfortunately, mine have broken, and they are no longer available.
They would probably need to come of a P38 which is being taken apart, and with this in mind I have contacted a couple of breakers but so far no-one has replied to me at all. I am sure that there has to be some, somewhere but the big breakers don't seem to be interested.
I wonder whether anyone on the forum here might have a couple that I could buy ?
Pierre3.
Pierre3.
Glad to say, with lots of useful information and advice from here, I have replaced both power steering pipes that run under the radiator, refilled and tested the steering; fitted a new water pump and thermostat, refilled cooling system and tested everything - and I am pleased to say that the temperature gauge needle now sits fairly steadily between 11 and 12 o'clock. It hardly moves either way until the fan comes on, which isn't very often.
After reading other members advice that the gauge should read higher than my gauge originally did I would now agree with earlier remarks that something must be wrong. As the water pump parted company with the impeller I would agree that, for months, something wasn't quite right. Possibly a combination of a dodgy thermostat followed by a misbehaving water pump. I did look at both items and I believe that they are both original bits.
Pierre3.
I looked up the data sheet for No-Nonsense Degreaser and it suggests not using it for rubber, plastics or wiring as it will damage these items. It seems to do a good job but you have to be very specific and particular where you spray it. And it says never on aluminium, but the diesel has a plastic inlet manifold and an aluminium rocker cover.
I will look into buying Viro-Sol, but it isn't something that I have ever heard of before. Otherwise, I have little choice, I will have to paint on Gunk Degreaser.
Pierre3.
Hi Harv, I have seen the two sort of flat metal springy things that are on the hinge. But I am guessing that I have to pop off the bonnet rams, where they are clipped to underside of the bonnet. This would release the upwards travel of the bonnet, and let it go up to about 90 degrees.
I suppose that the safe way is, as has been suggested, is to get someone else to hold the bonnet while disconnecting the rams.
Pierre3.
I don't know where they were on my car, but I thought that the one that I have fell off one of the power steering pipes. However, comparing the pipe size it would appear that they would be too small to fit the power steering pipes, even the metal sections. It looks much more likely that they are something to do with brake pipes. Or perhaps the EAS pipes.
I would love to know where they were fitted, but I guess that only someone who has completely stripped down a p38.
The other clips that I really want are the correct clips that hold the PS pipes, and are screwed to the two lugs which are located under the radiator. Maybe someone may have a part number, or even a couple lying around, unused.
Pierre3.
I will call over tomorrow while I am out. There are a couple of branches in my locality, I'm sure that one of them will have the product.
I have a bottle that has been used for spray foam wash, will this work ? Even though water is sprayed through the attached bottle ?
Pierre3.