I have been doing a lot of studying of air flow diagrams thanks to paulP38A.com and think it can only be either of these.
Diaphragm solenoid seals faulty so most of the air the pump is producing is disappearing out of the 4mm pipe. I haven't checked this yet. The non return valve has been put back the wrong way round so no air can get to the tank. I am pretty sure I put them back right but you never know. The only other thing I can think of is the pipe to the tank or the tank itself has a really bad leak so as fast as the pump is trying to fill it its emptying. Again I don't think this is the case as when I disconnected the air tank pipe at the valve block before rebuilding it there was considerable pressure released.
Rob.

Forgot to add nothing leaking from the exhaust valve with pump running.

Rebuilt pump which is now working fine. Still can't seem to get the tank to fill. It's as if something isn't letting the air from the pump go to where it's needed. I managed to fill the system from my workshop compressor on Sunday. Bags on all corners filled car came up to the right hight. Been sitting level since then so no leaks in that part of the system. Would this have something to do with the diaphragm. I replaced it with a new one in the kit and made sure it was the right way round I.e metal to the spring. I also made sure the spring was in the right position. Any advice gratefully received.
Rob.

Cheers Gilbert. I obviously wasn't looking hard enough.
Rob.

Hi all.
I don't suppose any has set of the steel washers that go on the EAS pump mounts they would like to part with. Or if you could point me in the right direction to buy some. I have looked and can't find them anywhere. The rubber mount no problem but the washers no.
Cheers Rob.

Rebuild kit ordered. Hopefully this will sort things out. Thanks for all the help and advise. I will let you know how it goes later in the week.
Rob.

Just pulled the pump apart and can't see to much wrong with it. Nrv reeds in the pump were a bit gummed up so have cleaned them. I will order another piston repair kit and see what happens. When the pump was running off the car I could hold my finger over the outlet and stop any air coming out. What I have read on here and the other forum is its not suppposed to be like that.

I have to admit the rebuild kit I used was from the same people who do the red valve block seal kits so don't know if that's why it didn't last

Right an update. Managed to fill the springs and tank by cobbling my mains compressor to the car. Left the car compressor attached and running and it switched off when up to pressure. So looking at things I think my compressor needs another over haul kit as it's not putting out much pressure.
Rob

I assume with the pump running and the door open the air from the pump should go straight to the tank or if the diaphragm is faulty out of the exhaust.

Probably had it running 20mins but turned it off for fear of overheating the pump. The accesslight is steady on the dash but it doesn't want to seem to move on from there. STD ride hight is blinking.

Bugger. Ffinished the block rebuild put it back on the car started up all ok no warnings. Can't get the car to do anything. Pump is running. The pump is good as I rebuilt it last week. Tested for leaks on the block nothing showing. Nothing now coming from the exhaust valve with the pump running. Don't really know where to go from here. Any help much appreciated.
Rob.

Hi all. Just about finished the vale block re seal. All good so far found a dodgy diaphragm so that's where the problem was. Just need to know weather to use any lube on the new diaphragm. I have used o ring grease on all the new o rings apart from the ones on the non return valves.
Cheers.

Thanks for all you help boys much appreciated. I will let you know how the rebuild goes when I do it.
Cheers Rob.

Thanks Gilbert. Another question. As I don't have a Nanocom etc whats the best way to depressurise the system.
Thanks again
Rob.

Thanks all. I have been reading up on doing a valve block overhaul http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/PaulP38A-EAS-VB-Renew.pdf doesn't seem to hard. Can you recommend a good o ring kit to buy.
Rob.

Right been playing around and this is what's happening. I took the dryer off and started the car. With the compressor running I put my finger over the bottom pipe and the air flow didn't seem very powerful. I then took the silencer off the block and air is escaping from there . If I put my finger over the silencer hole I can't then keep my finger over the compressor pipe into the bottom of the dryer as the pressure is to much. I hope this all makes sense. So where do we go from here. I assume there is nothing or very little going to the air tank and the compressor is doing all the work hence why it runs a lot. Thoughts please.
Rob.

Another quoestion. Just trying to get my head round how things work. Single line from valve block to air dryer then to air tank. So if the system is working correctly and there is pressure in the tank this line should be under pressure as well. The reason I Ask is a few months ago I removed the dryer to service and when disconnecting the air line there was no pressure there.
Rob.

Cheers Gilbert.
You are right in that it doesn't go straight up if I lower to access. It gradually goes up. I will check what you have suggested. Many thanks.
Rob.

Hi all.
A bit of advise please. My car is perfectly level doesn't loose hight when parked up for the week. All in all the EAS works fine at all heights. However the compressor seems to operate a lot. Example, car sitting in garage on level ground. Start car goes up to normal hight with the compressor running. Compressor switches off valves click as if the car is levelling then the compressor cuts in again. This cycle repeats. Not sure how often the compressor is supposed to run. Compressor has been overhauled. Any advise much appreciated.
Rob.