Dropped my car down to have the AC regassed and just had a call to say they haven't done the regas.

They checked for power at the compressor first (as I said it's not kicking in) and they said there is no power to it. They checked the fuses and relays and said those are fine.

I asked if they were able to confirm if the system had gas in it with a pressure gauge bit they said they don't know. Their machine doesn't measure the pressure of the system. It just tells them how much gas it was able to suck out when they evacuate the system - which they didn't do as there was no power to the compressor.

I'm not sure if I'm in the same situation that Romanrob is in with his as I'm fairly sure my Nanocom said "yes" for AC grant last time I was poking about with it.

What conditions need to be met for the AC compressor to be sent a power signal?

1) AC switched on
2) Cabin temperature measuring higher than the temp set in the HEVAC control panel
3) ??

I can't remember exactly (I had something else done at the same time so the total bill wasn't just for tracking). I just remember it being surprisingly cheap. I want to say £39.99 or £49.99.

They quoted me a higher number (somewhere around £125 I think) but I went with them anyway. I had it done elsewhere but it wasn't right so went to LR to get it done right. Their quote was high but I just considered it the cost of getting it done right.

When I came to pay the cost was much, much lower than their initial quote.

They also said that some of the parts were rusted solid and needed a lot of work to free them up - they don't know how the other place claimed to have done the tracking and then charge me for it. It explained why it didn't feel right after being done elsewhere though - they'd done half a job.

I had mine done at the LR dealer in Peterborough. They just charged MUCH less than £150.

I'd try giving them a call to see if your local dealer offers a reasonable price.

RutlandRover wrote:

I bought a dual action polisher and got the paint on my ST170 looking like a mirror.

I bought the DA polisher because I took my car for an MOT at an Audi dealership my mate worked at. They "kindly" washed the car for me and left it looking like this:

It looked like this all over - like someone had gone at it with a brillo pad.

I bought the polisher and got it looking like this:

I've not yet used it on the P38 but this is how that scrubs up with just a wash and a wax:

I used to go nuts cleaning my cars. Clay bars, multiple buckets, wash mitts, fancy polish, sealants, all sort of things for the interior.

I bought a dual action polisher and got the paint on my ST170 looking like a mirror. I'd take the seats out to clean under them, wheels off to clean the backs etc.

Then I found I didn't have the time to do it anymore. Found a girlfriend, then a kid came along etc. I really want to get back to doing things like that - I don't like looking at or sitting in a grubby car :(

I did leave out a few steps to save some typing :P

What I've seen done is:

1) evacuate system
2) pressurise system with nitrogen
3) disconnect nitrogen
4) leave it for a while and check pressure
5) evacuate nitrogen
6) pull a vaccuum on the system
7) leave it for a while and check pressure
8) refill with refrigerant if both tests are passed

I just wasn't sure how air tight the compressor is when it's not running. In my head, if air was getting past the compressor then that might mean the compressor was lacking compression - like when the EAS compressor wears out or when piston rings etc are gone.

My AC doesn't work and I'm going to have it leak tested and recharged.

When I've seen a leak test done before they hook up a canister of nitrogen to the fill valve, open the stop and check the pressure/listen for leaks.

Wouldn't think only test the system between that valve and the compressor? Am I right in thinking that unless the compressor is turning nothing will flow through it so this pressure test can't test for leaks after the compressor?

If my thought is right, is there a way to test the rest of the system?

Were there two colours of beige leather? I've always understood mine to be Lightstone but EVERY photo I see of other people's Lightstone leather looks much lighter than mine. I know mine could do with a clean but they don't look that dirty. Especially the back seats - the look practically new in terms of condition but still appear a bit darker than other Lightstone seats.

I have 983GB of OneDrive space going spare at the moment.

That should be plenty of room for all of these and would save the strain on Gordon's server/network connection.

romanrob wrote:

a TSB about a rocking front seat :o)

That one sounds interesting. Every so often I think I can feel my seat move ever so slightly but don't seem to be able to replicate it!

Morat wrote:

Even if you had the appropriate double ended hose, you'd only be able to equalise the pressure.
Not practical, I'm afraid.

You might be able to take his tank out and run your car from it, but it's a hell of a bodge for £30 of gas.

So, if we had the correct hose (which we don't) the best we could hope for is 50% of the gas if my tank started as empty as possible and was that same size?

I hadn't even thought about it not being worth while due to cost!

Gilbertd wrote:

You need a suitable pump, sorry.

I guess those aren't worth buying for a one off job.

BrianH wrote:

You might find it difficult to get rid of the car without first removing the tank. My local scrapyard doesn't like taking them with it in the car still. Places will do, but easiest bet is to use it up somehow. What kind of tank is it (Size?)

I've since learned that the tank has already been removed and is in his shed. It's a 70l cylinder tank that sat behind the rear seats. He says it's showing no signs of rust.

He's in Sutton Bridge if anyone else is interested or can make use of it.

A friend of mine has an LPG Mondeo on his drive that hasn't moved in a few years. He's now looking to dispose of the car but the LPG tank is full.

Is it possible to transfer the LPG from his tank to mine?

Clive603 wrote:

Although its not supposed to be necessary with live axles both ends its probably worth forking out for a Hunter or similar four wheel alignment check just in case there is something seriously weird going on. Allegedly many KwikFit branches have Hunter equipment and will do the test for free. Not sure that I'd trust them to adjust things tho'.

Unlikely to be anything odd but I'm prejudiced mostly because pretty much everything folks bring me to fix or diagnose is odd.

Clive

I originally paid for Kwik Fit to do the tracking for me as I had them mount my new tyres (bought the online from Camskill) but it wasn't right.

I then took it LR who said they have no idea how KF managed to do the tracking as the nuts were rusted and seized solid. They had to work quite hard to free them off and get them moving. Once LR was done with it, it DID feel and drive better. LR charged considerably less than KF too!

Gilbertd wrote:

Actually, that tyre looked much the same at the summer camp. Have a look here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1254-radius-arm-bushes-and-possible-meet?page=6 and if you look at the pictures I took, right click on them, select View Image and then click on the image to zoom in. So your dodgy radius arm bushes could have been the cause. If it was, swapping the wheels around should make it track true now they've been changed.

Yeah, I've been noticing the wear for a while. Should have looked in to it sooner!

tanis8472 wrote:

Daft questions, but is your steering wheel straight. Not talking about 4-5 degree. I mean more

With the wheel pointing straight it drifts to the left. I have to steer it slightly right to drive straight. I've not measured the angle but its not a huge amount.

I'll swap the wheels around at the weekend and see how that goes.

Gilbertd wrote:

and get the tracking checked. It's actually set for very slight toe out (0 degrees 5 minutes to 0 degrees 15 minutes) so if someone has set it to parallel then it is toeing in slightly.

As it was done by an LR main dealer I assume it was done correctly.

I'll have a nose through RAVE and see what the procedure is.

Mileage is currently at 131,925. Not a low number but I guess it's technically "low for the year".

I do have to point the wheel slightly right to stay straight.

So, is uneven tow in possible but not a good idea or simply not possible to achieve? I'm wondering if the tow in on the nearside is wrong and causing it to wear like that.

Am I right in thinking it can't be a camber issue as it's a live axle and the hub is bolted directly to the axle?

It could be held against the side of a kettle with a multimeter attached then?

Is it possible to have too much tow in on one side only?

I do make a point of going ROUND roundabouts rather than through them (and it's not unheard of for me to take them without much slowing down if I can get away with it) but I've driven all my cars the same way and not had this problem. The P38 is much heavier than anything I've had before though!

It does drift slightly to the left, not sure if that's relevant to this though.

Had a quick look at the other tyre - both edges see fine.

I'll check the ball joints this weekend.

If it was roundabouts wouldn't you expect the inner tyre on the offside to be worn too (but less so than on the nearside)?

Which part of the suspension or steering would cause the tyre to wear like this:

This was a brand new Continental tyre in December 2017 and the tracking was set by a Land Rover main dealer. At the time they raised no concerns about not being able to set it correctly.

As far as I can tell the rest of the tyre is wearing fine and the tyre pressures are checked regularly. I've not checked the other side - I should do that.

Could you test the sensor in a pot of hot water with a multimeter attached?