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Smiler wrote:

I will be making sure that this fact is mentioned in my magazine article for september. So long as it makes it to print...

Which magazine is that?

The editor of LRO was at our event on Sunday and I mentioned to him that I only buy the issues that have P38's in them. He then said that there's probably lots more people like me that do that and asked if he could take some photos of me taking mine around the off road course so he could show one going off road without needing any modifications.

He's asked me to put together a few words about my car to go with the photos. I'll work in a mention of our forum here and the 25th birthday too :)

When checking the UJ's for play what's the best procedure? I know the handbrake needs to be off but does it need to be in neutral?

Reason I ask is that with mine in gear or park I get no movement of the prop but in neutral there's quite a lot of movement and clunk if I move it quickly. The clunk sounds like it's actually inside the transfer box rather than the UJ though.

The cheep cheep cheep sound mentioned here sounds like it could be the clicking/ticking noise I can hear with my windows open and driving next to a wall.

If anyone is reasonably local we meet at The Royal Oak in Cossington on the first Wednesday of every month from about 7:30 but some people turn up early and have dinner there.

Morat wrote:

I think we need to investigate this as a club/forum!
Also, my Father in Law lives in Rutland so I could kill two birds :)

Whereabouts in Rutland? I used to live in Uppingham.

We might do another open promo day next year but we have an RTV trial next month for club members. That's in Uppingham.

Membership is £21 per year and gives you ALRC membership as well as membership with us. As an ALRC member you can attend any event held by any ALRC club in the country. Or, if you're already a member of an ALRC club, you can attend our events anyway.

This is our website with event details and membership details: www.lrlrc.co.uk

no10chris wrote:

I reckon even with road tyres you would of got round the blue course, watching the video reminds me of going to Marty’s workshop, lol

I did manage to find myself on a blue bit. I was too busy chatting to my passenger and didn't pay attention to the flags. Found myself in the blue section, thought "that doesn't look so bad, I've done worse" and went for it. I got completely beached and needed to be recovered lol.

It doesn't really come across very well on video but the yellow course was quite a bit worse than the road to Marty's :P

The slopes in particular look a lot less severe in the video.

On Sunday we had these running round: https://youtu.be/-nu3oSGLIuM

Our club hosted a 4x4 Promotional Event today, open to owners of any 4x4.

Once it quieted down I went out on my own and took a video of the route. I stuck to the yellow flag route that was a bit less severe than the blue flag route. There's a very heavily modified Suzuki (Jimny, I think) in the video doing the blue route. There's also a red Vitara and how it came away with no damage I don't know. I guided a silver Vitara around earlier in the day (exactly the same as the red one) and it was grounding out all over the place on the route I take in the video.

If I had my knobbly tyres on I'd have tried some of the blue!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WbhUDpnvHo&t=1s

enter image description here

We had the editor of LRO in attendance too. He took a good few photos and is doing an article in an upcoming issue. There's a few photos and another video on their Facebook page.

I wonder if the car has memory seats?

IIRC the system should set the seats and mirrors to whatever is saved to Memory 1 if Key 1 is used (Memory 2 for Key 2 etc) when the car is started.

I guess it must put some current through the mirror to check if the position is correct before adjusting it if needed.

Sloth wrote:

Depends on year - if its GEMS, its 1250, Bosch/Thor takes 1380 :)

Get a print out if you can if its done with a machine, which should prove how much has gone in. Unless they've been crafty and snuck a weight on the bottle scales during filling... I wouldn't put it past some.

Ah, I didn't realise there was a difference based on year. The machine in our workshop on lists 1250 for all models of P38. When I had it done I had to point out the sticker and they had to manually set up the amounts instead of letting the machine figure it out.

romanrob wrote:

I had mine done recently at ATS. The machine recovered no oil (as in, there was nothing there), and then they added 5g of PAG oil and 5g of UV/ oil mix (along with 1250 of R134a). Those figures came from whichever database ATS use - either way they're not just putting back the same amount they recovered, so I wouldn't mess around, just take it to a centre that has the right reference data. Groupon are doing 36% off at ATS currently...

I've found that the machines often have the wrong (lower) amount gas. The sticker/plate on the front of the car says 1380g I think.

I leave them on and use a regular 12 point socket (1 1/4in IIRC) and they come off fine. Mine don't seem to suffer any damage.

The only one I take off is the cover on the locking wheel nuts because the cover spins.

Yeah, the video isn't great. I can just about hear the tick tick tick noise as I know what I'm listening for. The wuhwuhwuhwuh isn't audible there at all.

There's a few quiet roads nearby but it hasn't stopped raining heavily for over 24 hours now!

I think I'm just going to go with the "replace everything in the front axle" approach. Either through new parts or through fitting the new axle. I already have the new ball joints and I've agreed a price of £50 for the front axle including diff, drive shafts/CV joints, hubs etc.

If that doesn't change anything it means it's engine/gearbox/transfer box and that's whole different thing to worry about if it comes to it.

romanrob wrote:

My main problem is I don't know what wuh-wuh-wuh sounds like :o)

I wasn't sure how best to describe it and that was the best attempt at onomatopoeia I could come up with for it :P

Tried to get it on video but it really doesn't show up. It gets drowned out by all the other noises the microphone in my phone picks up. It picks up all sorts of rattles and creaks I don't hear myself!

I'm now wondering if it might be a CV joint. I heard a faint "click click click click" noise when I was coasting in traffic along side the central reservation this morning. Opened my window and it got louder and sounded more like a "tink tink tink tink". It went away when I pressed the brakes and came back when I let off. It either went away or was drowned out by engine and wind noise when I was accelerating. Could hardly hear it when the central reservation was gone so it must have been bouncing back at me off that.

The cabins on these cars are too well insulated from the outside world! They block out so much sound that just don't hear things that might be going wrong.

I'll have a look at these bluetooth microphones. Any recommended ones?

I think I can rule out the wheel nuts. They wuh wuh wuh was there there before and after I swapped the front wheels side to side and re-torqued the wheel nuts correctly.

Took another video but I'll have to wait until I'm to upload that.

I'm fairly sure it's not the heat shields. It's not a knocking/flapping noise.

I think I can rule out wheel nuts too. I swapped the front tyres side to side, torqued the nuts properly and the noise was still there.

I'm just going to go with the plan of swapping the entire axle and see how it is then. The axle I'm looking to get isn't a 4 pin diff after all but I'll still go for it. Just trying to work out a price with the guy.

Thinking about it a bit more, since it doesn't change with engine speed I think I can rule out gearbox/transfer box since the noise would change with gear changes if it was those.

Leaves me with diff, prop joints, viscous coupling and wheel bearings.

A guy in my Land Rover club has a spare front axle with a known good 4 pin diff going spare since he moved on to an L322. He said it would be easier to fit my new ball joints to that then fit the whole axle to the car.

If I've got suspected bad wheel bearings and/or diff then it sounds like a no brainer to take this axle and fit new ball joints and wheel bearings to that. I can fit new UJ's when the prop comes off to fit the axle.

That should take care of everything besides the viscous coupling.

Tried to catch it on video just now but I could barely hear it myself. It seems to be more prominent when there's more weight in the car - we've travelled off to the coast for the weekend loaded up with two adults, a baby, suitcases, toys, pushchair, kids bike, travel cot etc.

It was definitely more noticeable with all that in the car. I was on my own with an empty car for the video test. It does happen when I'm on my own though. I've been hearing it slightly for a while.

Sorry, poor description.

It's faster in the scenario I mentioned because the road speed is higher.

The noise starts slow and speeds up as the car does. Most noticeable/loudest when speeding up at a moderate pace at just under 20mph. Past 20mph it kinda blends in to a whir/whine.

Letting off the accelerator between 20-30mph makes the noise a noticeable wuhwuhwuhwuh again.

Tyres are fine, swapped them around yesterday following my thread about the worn outer edge (swapping them has done nothing for the pulling to the left issue :( ). No bulges or uneven wear except for the very edge of one tyre.

It sounds mechanical, possibly central. Fairly sure it's forward of the seats, could possibly be under them but I don't think so.

I can't feel anything through steering that feels associated with the noise.

What do the following sound like when they fail?

Diff

Transfer box

Viscous coupling

I've had a failing wheel bearing before on a different car and that was a constant noise rather than a pulsing one. It also sounded grindy. Anyone had a pulsing wheel bearing noise?

I'm getting a noise that sounds like it's somewhere up front.

It seems to be related to roadspeed/wheel speed rather than engine RPM. It seems to be most noticeable at around 18mph on the speedo when accelerating slowly and it does it in a straight line as well as when turning.

If I'm between 20 and 30mph and let off the accelerator I get the noise as I'm slowing down but the noise is faster. When this happens it's more "wuhwuhwuhwuh" than "wuh-wuh-wuh-wuh".

Hoping someone recognises my attempt at replicating the noise :P

I got a full system from eBay including cats a couple of years ago. It fit perfectly. It was mild steel and made by Allmakes 4x4 and sold through Maltings Off Road. They have a "trade club" that gives a discount if you phone them direct and join.

Turns out my hose was a Bearmach one, I'm unfairly blaming Britpart in this case!

I have a set of lots of different hose clip pliers from Amazon. IIRC it was £15-20. Might be worth looking for something like that. It also includes a hooked spike for releasing the stuck on hoses once the clamps are off.