Got it to connect.
Readings in Hevac:
Ambient temp - 8
Aspirator temp - 18.60
Evaporator temp - 13.80
Readings in Motronic:
Internal temp - 49
Air temp - 26.25
Closed throttle - 14.42V
Climate control set to 18 and showing an external temp of 8.
I tried inputs first and went out and tried again but no luck. Went to inputs as I wanted to see what it was recording for the internal temp there.
I was able to see the faults though (blend motors short circuit to positive). I'll try again at lunch.
Checked it again this morning and the internal temp is showing 47, external seemed fine.
Closed throttle was showing 14.20V.
I tried looking in the HEVAC menu of the Nanocom but it says it can't connect to the ECU so I couldn't see anything in there.
Not sure what's going on with the temps. When I was looking earlier today they were reading fine. Showed 21.75 internal (climate control set to 21) and 12 external.
Just been out in the car again so had another look. Showing 45 internal and 26 external. Closed throttle voltage seems to swapping between 14.81 and 15.20. It sometimes changes by opening and closing the screen that shows it and once I saw the value change while it was on screen.
Clearing the adaptives doesn't seem to affect the closed voltage. The idle speed did rise and idle became a bit tougher though when I cleared them.
I don't have a photo of the current value but this was it the other day, before I reset the adaptives.
Am I reading it wrong?
Ok, so resetting the adaptive has affected the idle closed voltage. It's now gone up to 15.xx volts lol.
Might have to get a multimeter out and check what voltage the sensor is actually giving out.
It seems to run just fine - MPG is a bit lower than before I did the head gaskets but has been improving.
My high idle seems to be intermittent and mostly when cold. If I drive for a while and stop it seems to idle lower (but not at the value listed in RAVE).
Just been looking through RAVE for the voltage range for the TPS. Looks like it should range between 0-5V. Nanocom reckons my car has a closed throttle value of 14.81V!
I guess I need to go hit the reset button.
Is bank 1 the passenger side with cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7?
If so, I guess the heat from the cat that nearly caught fire probably toasted the sensor and/or the wiring.
If it detects a dead sensor does the ECU default to "safe" value to allow the car to continue running (which would be the static value Nanocom is seeing?)?
I've cleared all the codes I could to see what comes back the next time I check it.
Might be worth giving the Ac compressor a tap with a rubber mallet?
Mine has always come off easily with the bolts removed.
The locating dowel is only a short little stubby thing - a few MM high. I can't imagine it would cause the whole compressor to seize in place.
Plugged in my new (to me) Nanocom yesterday and went through all the screens.
LOTS of engine codes, mostly inactive and relating to misfires - which I knew about as the car nearly caught fire a few weeks ago. It was worse than I thought at the time though!
Present faults:
P0134 - Lambda Bank 1 Signal Missing (x2)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent, causes MIL lamp (x132)
NA - Signal Missing. Persistent, causes MIL Lamp (x129)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent (x1)
The first one seems straight forward - no signal from the lamda sensor. Loose connection, dead sensor etc.
Not sure where to start with the NA ones though. I have no MIL lamp on despite the fault descriptions.
I'm not really concerned with the following codes as they're not present and I knew it was misfiring before. It's interesting to see how bad it actually was. If I'd had the Nanocom at the time I wouldn't have left it to run as long as I did. It honestly only sounded and felt like a minor misfire in one cylinder! It does show me what the issue was though. Misfires on 4 cylinders - all 4 on the same coil. I must have had a loose ignition coil plug that was fixed by my random wiggling of all the connectors I could reach.
Not present:
P1000 - Lambda Bank 2 Signal missing (x170)
P1300 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Multiple cylinders (x2)
P1301 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 1 (x1)
P0304 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 4 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 6 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 7 (x2)
P1319 - Misfire with low fuel (x2)
P0175 - Additive Adaptive Mixture Correction TRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x7)
P0175 - Mixture Adaption Factor FRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x14)
Cylinder 5 is showing a value of 1.89 for roughness. The other cylinders are all at 0.00. Not sure what this means. What units is this measured in? I think this was the cylinder that I found a small amount burnt black crud in. Slight oil leak affecting combustion that the ECU is noticing?
One of my lambda sensors isn't behaving the same as the other one. Bank A is showing as completely stable at 0.28V with a stable output value of 0.99. Bank B is bouncing around rapidly with a voltage between 0.02 and 0.77. Bank B output value is bouncing between 0.95 and 1.05. At a guess, the once that's not changing is the once that's wrong? That would tie in with the active/present fault saying that the signal from bank 1 lambda is missing.
Sitting at idle it shows RPM at 760 with a target engine speed of 3120 - does this mean it's trying to achieve 3120rpm for some reason?
Sitting at idle it shows and engine load of 14%, internal and air temps of 45C, throttle open 0% and closed throttle 14.81V - do these values look ok or would they explain my intermittent high idle issue?
On the rough road screen the voltage reading is swapping between 0 and 12 about once every second, rough running is "ON" and rough road status is "ACTIVE". The compensation value is 0.01.
Then I'm on to blend motor issues (which I knew about before hand but have been living with). Left hand blend and distribution motors are short circuited to positive. Need to pull those and check the connections for corrosion and test the motors.
Next up is two things that I didn't know about. I found a screen that let me test the cruise control buttons. Ever since I've had the car the resume function of the cruise control hasn't worked. I assumed the switch was dead and didn't worry about it. Nanocom shows that the button DOES work. It shows pressed when I press it. Now I need to work out why it doesn't actually resume my CC.
Last up is a suspension height sensor out of range - although I have no suspension faults and it goes up and down perfectly.
MarkTr wrote:
Also PM'ed-- expect I am a bit late- but had to ask.
It arrived at my house this morning, sorry :P
Found it. I got it from Bearmach.
I bought one of those recently and it certainly didn't cost that much.
Can't remember where I got it off the top of my head. I'll dig out the invoice once I've put the baby to bed.
I put the ring end of a 15mm spanner on the tensioner and a socket with an extension bar on the open end of the spanner. Then I push the whole lot clockwise.
Mines definitely 15mm for the tensioner.
Are you sure you've got the right bolt head? The bolt that holds the tensioner assembly on is 13mm IIRC. Don't want to undo that with the belt in place!
MarkTr wrote:
Got the carpet up on the right side---with a fan-still soaked since coolant is slow to evaporate.
I had a waterlogged carpet from rain water getting in through the vents. It didn't want to dry out even in summer.
I ended up piling lots of newspaper under the carpet and going at the top with a wet-vac. Even then it took a very long time to feel like it was making a difference and I never managed to get it fully dry. I just got it as dry as I could and had to leave it to dry out over time.
Thought so, cheers
Had a dipped beam bulb blow on the way home this evening so I need a new one.
Halfords and Autobulbsdirect are telling me the dipped beam is a single filament H7 but I was sure it's a two filament H4. I'm sure it does both dipped and main beam with an additional main beam H7.
It's too cold and dark and wet for me to go look at it right now...anyone able to confirm for me?
PM Sent :)
Gilbertd wrote:
Sloth did say that the TPS idle voltage can be cleared on a Thor by disconnecting the battery. If it can't you need Nanocom, Faultmate, Testbook or one of the other dedicated diagnostic units.
Sloth wasn't sure but I guess I was premature in saying it could only be done with diagnostics. I was figuring that diagnostics would be guaranteed to do it whereas disconnecting the battery wasn't :)
I'll try some cleaner in the TPS connector, see how that goes then try disconnecting the battery and see again.
Cheers guys :)
So it sounds like first port of call is resetting the value stored for idle RPM that can only be done with diagnostics?
Next question then, what, besides Nanocom, is capable of doing this?