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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Oh, the foreman also suggested trying a different brand of pad.

I put Mintex pads and discs in as I've always used them on my other cars and been happy.

What other brands have you guys had good experience with on P38s?

Just had my workshop foreman (I work in a truck dealership) have a quick drive after explaining what happened with them.

He thinks the pads are glazed from their overheating and he'd suggest changing them again. He reckons the pedal feel is fine but there's a lack of bite from the pads and it's not stopping as quickly as it should.

The excessive pedal travel I noted at the weekend is gone, I guess that must have been down to the overheating.

I have the car booked in to be bled by a local Land Rover independent as I'm not confident bleeding them myself. Might change the pads again in the meantime though. The local independent can't fit me until the 27th :(

Hopefully they can pinpoint my coolant leak while they're at it!

Maybe try pulling the radio out and removing the power plug completely?

There will be a permanent 12v feed that won't be affected by pulling the fuse for the ignition feed that lets you listen to the radio with the ignition off. I

Mightr out whatever is putting in "wait" mode.

I'm feeling a little under prepared here.

All I keep in the car is coolant, oil, a screw driver and an RAC card lol.

Driving on bump stops should be the very last resort after exhausting every available alternative! I don't think I've ever been shaken around that much in my life.

Whatever the max speed the dashboard suggests in that situation is a lie. It should be much lower!

Fixed the smoking/burning.

Took the caliper back off and pumped thebpedal to push the pistons back out (had to wedge the free moving one still) and wound it back in. Did this a good few times until moved easily.

Went for another test drive and no more smoke! Didn't try an emergency stop and haven't bled the brakes yet.

I'll try an emergency stop later. I'm hoping the lack of pressure was being caused by the sticking piston causing the fluid to overheat.

All four pistons went in reasonably easily - they certainly weren't the hardest ones I've ever had to wind back.

One was noticeably more difficult than the others though.

While I was in there I noticed the rubber boot on the upper ball joint was split - need to get those swapped at some point!

Gilbertd wrote:

So like spray on Mer then? That makes it go really shiny too and doesn't need the elbow grease that wax needs.

(proves how little I know about polishing cars.....)

I've not used spray on Mer but the detailing spray I've used in the past is very, very liquid. You can use it as lubricant for using a clay bar on the paint. It's essentially a mix of water and car shampoo.

It's no where near the consistency of spray wax.

Replaced my front pads and discs today as one of the pads was down to the metal.

All went pretty smoothly. All the slider pins were seized which I figure caused the uneven wear. Freed them of and replaced them with new pins.

Went out for a test drive, did some light braking, heavier braking then tried emergency stops.

I can't get the ABS to kick in AT ALL. The pedal goes down to the floor but no ABS and no locking up. Just braking but taking longer to come to a stop than I'd like or expect.

When I got home and parked up I noticed some acrid smelling smoke from the driver's side brakes (this is the one that wore down to metal).

I've got no warning lights and I can't remember the last time I needed to stop hard enough for ABS so I don't know when the issue cropped up.

A couple of months ago I I was getting the brake warning light coming on so I replaced the accumulator. That solved the light coming on.

When I replaced it I post a small amount of fluid but the fluid was level with the top of the threads, so I assumed no air would have gotten in.

Bleed the brakes and see how it is after that?

Mukiwa wrote:

Will it polish out my scratches and dings? Inherited when I bought it, not by me!

I'll get some for my hairdressers car (TT convertible 2003)

Detailing spray isn't a polish for removing scratches. It's basically just a really quick way to make the surface shiny.

You usually use it after waxing the car, once the shine from the wax starts to wear off but you don't have time to reapply some more wax.

Mine is a Thor and I can't get my ELM327 to work in any capacity.

Doesn't even power up the Bluetooth connectivity for my phone to see before opening the Torque app.

rhyl46 wrote:

I've got an ELM327 plug in that works perfectly with a Torque Pro app on my phone with our Jaguar but when I plug it into the P38 I get a beeping dash and ABS faults.
Glad I purchased the Nanocom LOL !

That's more than I get!

When I plug mine in the lights on the ELM327 unit flash then I just get a static red light. My phone won't even see the bluetooth connection so I figure the car isn't powering the adaptor correctly.

Hmm, looks like I need to go play with it again then.

Gilbertd wrote:

It won't be in RAVE as they would just replace the complete hub rather than fitting a new bearing. However, https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/drivetrain/hubs.html

Looks like there's a lot of different recommendations on the press size out there! Had a look earlier and saw some people saying 50t, 30t here and 20t in that guide.

Couldn't find any reference to the 100t I remembered though, I just have remembered wrong!

I have an ELM327 that I've used with my previous cars but I can't get it to connect to the P38.

Are the OBDII ports wired in a non-starters way? I remember having to rewire a standard OBDII cable/plug to work with the EAS Unlock software before.

IIRC you need an enormous press to remove and refit the bearings in the hub. I seem to remember 100T being the number I was given several years ago.

Also, I think the bearings to look for are Timken and they were closer to £90 when I was looking.

I'd recommend avoiding metalwork that is significantly cheaper than the majority of the competition.

Having bodywork welded in and painted is an expensive job that no one wants to do twice.

I needed two sills on my Focus a few years ago, found some that were almost a deal too good to be true. Got them welded in and painted (by a main dealer body shop, so the quality of the work should have been top notch) and they'd both rusted through again in under 24 months!

Thanks for the offer but I've already ordered one from eBay.

Aren't the washer pumps accessible with the bumper in place?

Should pull down, might need some encouragement from a screwdriver and some WD-40.

IIRC mine weren't done up anyway and I left them undone when I out my bumper back on. Seems to be fine just sat on the sliders and held with the front bolts.