Bah.
Just been out at lunch to try and locate the leak (no luck) but as I was driving up and down the road to get the car to operating temp I found the ABS, traction control and handbrake lights coming on when the pedal is pressed :(
New accumulator time!
That was my thought - surely there's very little that go wrong with a rubber hose.
I need to put a little bit of time in to making sure the current leak is actually hose first.
I can see coolant dripping off the front of the engine and I'm really, really hoping it's not the front cover/water pump gasket again. That was a ball ache last time :(
I'm getting slightly bored of playing "Chase the perennial coolant leak" - whenever one leak is plugged another one pops up.
I'm looking at just replacing all of the hoses in big go and hoping that stops it, at least temporarily!
Looking online, almost all of the hoses seem to be Britpart and a few have Genuine Land Rover options available (at a not insignificant markup).
Are hoses one of the things that are generally OK to get from Britpart?
Ah...you've just reminded me to check the wheel nuts on the other half's car!
Replaced her brakes the other day under the watchful of her father. He insisted I put copper slip on the wheel bolts (which I've never done before) and I want to make sure they haven't worked loose due to the copper slip.
My previous boss (career truck mechanic, 40+ years) always advised me against putting copper slip on the mating faces of wheels/hubs and the nuts/bolts. He reckoned the grease prevented the wheel from sitting properly flat against the hub and when it got the grease would get runny and run out, leaving a small gap between the wheel and the hub. This gap would then mean the wheel was loose etc.
No idea how true that is though.
I've always used the torque wrench set the manufacturers recommended settings and never had wheel nuts come loose. Two Focuses, two P38's, a Sierra, a Corsa and several cars belonging to friends and family.
I wonder if you've over tightened them over the years and stretched the threads or damaged the wheel preventing them from doing their job properly.
Have you pressed the button on the top left of the dashboard to switch the system on?
The steering wheel buttons don't do anything until that's pressed.
Sorry for a late response to this - I don't get much opportunity to get online now I'm back at work. Our lovely IT dept have installed an incredibly strict web filter in the 6 months I was off so I can't access the site there.
Thanks for such an in-depth explanation on what's going on! The phone call was much appreciated too.
Now that I understand what's going on with it I'm happy to leave it as it is :)
Mine did that not long after I got it. A nice big sledge hammer did the trick, hitting the inside edge of the wheel (with a bit of wood to protect it).
Not sure how to describe it. Actual idle is fine but if I blip the throttle the revs drop momentarily before picking back up. As this happens the engine goes completely quiet, like it shut off. Then it picks up and feels a little rough until around 2k rpm.
Doesn't happen at all on petrol and seems fine on LPG once the engine is warmed up. I'm not 100% sure but I think it only does it in neutral or park. I've not noticed any issues pulling away.
Any ideas on what it could be?
What do the degrees mean?
From the paperwork I have it looks like I have a 30 degree 89l tank with an 80% fill valve.
I guess 89l is max capacity, 80% is what I'm limited to filling it to. Not sure about the degrees though.
Skid plate was the backup plan :)
To be fair to Simon, I didn't mention anything about off road use and preferred pipe routing at the time we arranged the fitting.
I am going back to work soon but not in Peterborough. Dropping to 3 days per week and paying for nursery fees means the commute to Peterborough wouldn't be financially viable (even on LPG).
We're moving to Huncote (just outside Leicester), to a house owned by Fiona's parents who are giving us reduced rent :)
I'll then be commuting to our Coventry depot. Commute isn't much different to my commute from here to Peterborough but coupled with the rent saving it's worthwhile.
There's a Morrisons not far off my new commute that has LPG for around 55ppl.
I'm not sure what type he has fitted but the pipes exit through the bottom of the spare wheel well. I asked him to locate the filler closer to the towbar to reduce the chances of knocking it while off road but I forgot to mention the other pipes. I'll need to have a look to see if moving them is something I can do.
I think I might code myself a nice little Android app for my phone to calculate my MPG, miles per litre and pence per mile :P
I might even have it compare the cost of LPG vs it what it would have cost me on petrol (based on the average mpg I got when running on petrol).
Cheers guys!
I'll have to do a proper fill up to fill up manual calculation to get an idea of the LPG MPG then.
How does the MPG readout work when running on LPG?
I picked my car up from having the LPG fitted this morning and was surprised to see the MPG readout working. I expected it to not know what to display as it couldn't measure any petrol flow.
Does the LPG system feed back to the computer to allow it to work?
On the way to have the system fitted it was showing just under 21 mpg, on LPG on the way home it was averaging around 19 mpg. Given that the MPG was lower than it was on petrol I assumed this meant it was reading accurately for LPG.
LR Direct reckon they can get hold of ANR3855:
https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR3855-Power-Steering-Hoses/
As do LR Parts:
Sloth wrote:
There is just those two bolts holding the bumper on, then it drops slightly and slides out of a mounting bracket at either side behind each wheel. There is a clip that needs folding up/down on each of those too.
I'm not 100% convinced those clips are necessary. They were undone on mine when I got it and I couldn't get them to do up.
Redraptor141 wrote:
Cheers RutlandRover, I think that’s what I’ll do, saves having too much car off the deck at any one time.
Think I’m just worried about having 2+ ton jacked up over my head!
Use an axle stand to support the vehicle. I have a 3T jack but still wouldn't trust it to work under
When I do the bags I set suspension to high, jack and support the side chassis rail with the wheel in the air. Then I use the jack under the wheel hub to raise the axle slightly to take the strain off the clips holding the bag in. Pull the clips out, pull the bag out and put the new one in.
Then jack the axle up and down as needed to locate the new bag.
I'd suggest ordering new retaining clips for the air bags. They can get very, very corroded and end up unusable - they're nice and cheap though.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/spring-fitting-full-isl003-p-5234.html
There's also an air dryer (cheap - https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-compressor-filter-stc2759-p-592.html) and a small filter for the compressor (not so cheap - https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-dryer-dunlop-ntc9812-p-591.html)