When you pull the silver lever up it pushes the other end down. That then pushes a rod inside the gear lever down that then allows the whole thing to move.
The bit that snapped off is the bit that presses on the rod
Cleaning and lubing it wouldn't have helped :(
Need a new gear knob!
Saw this on Facebook the other day: https://www.facebook.com/groups/314522172231316/permalink/703812016635661/
Should show it pretty well
Solved it...
Something inside the gear lever snapped. Found a screw driver and took the lever off. Works now by moving by rod inside manually
As I was reversing and about to change back to D something happened to my gear lever.
The pull button that lets it move went slack, the lever is stuck in the R position and I can't select any gears!
Any ideas other than calling the RAC?
I left mine in the scrap bin at work....the local Pikeys had a good week that week then!
Just pulled the whole thing out.
Tested continuity across the rivetted/soldered on terminals with all bulbs fitted - has continuity.
Tested with no bulbs fitted - no continuity.
Tested with one bulb fitted - has continuity.
Moved the bulb to all positions and tested each one - has continuity.
Removed all bulbs from bulb holders and tested the holders - no continuity.
Tested all holders with bulbs fitted - has continuity.
Tested all bulbs out of holders - has continuity.
Tested pins in connector with no bulbs fitted - no continuity.
Tested pins in connector with one bulb fitted - has continuity.
Tested pins in connector with all bulbs fitted - has continuity.
Tested power at the car connector - has power.
Plugged it back and it works...
I figured there wasn't much to them. There's no visible corrosion on either the board or the bulb holders.
I tested the power where the wires are soldered to the board and I tested the continuity of the bulbs while they were still in the bulb holders.
The lines on the board that go from the wires to the holders are nice and thick and clean with no visible breaks or corrosion etc.
I'll take the whole thing out of the car tomorrow and take a closer look. It does look like a really simple component.
Ok...so I got the multimeter out and tested the light.
All the bulbs are good and the light unit is getting just under 12V - dead lamp?
PRC7644 should be what I'm after, right?
I've been told that my 3rd brake light doesn't light up but the dash computer isn't giving me any warnings for it.
Is the 3rd brake light not included in the warnings for blown bulbs? It told me that my left brake light was out and I've changed that.
Seems odd that none of the bulbs in the 3rd brake light are lighting up - sounds like I need to test that it's getting power!
no10chris wrote:
I think for the hassle why bother, I’ve had people say , you get free congestion charge in London, BS do you, mine has lpg on the log book, I’ve never got anything off the tax and pay congestion charges.
Do you need it registered as LPG for it be MOT'd as LPG?
My insurance company have said it has to be registered as LPG on the V5 as a condition of them insuring it too.
I recently sent my V5 away for a change of address and I also filled in the "Type of fuel" box under section 7 (changes to current vehicle) to say "LPG/PETROL".
I got the V5 back today with the change of address but the type of fuel listed under section 4 still reads "PETROL".
Did I do it wrong or have they just missed the change to fuel type?
Sloth wrote:
It isn't plastic... is lacquer. If it were exposed wood veneer, it would need a lot of maintenance and generally look crap - by now it would be probably ruined in most examples.
A mate of mine had a Volvo V70 that a natural, un-lacquered finish to the wood trim. I thought it looked fantastic and he never had to do anything to it to keep it looking good.
Ah, I get it now :)
Gilbertd wrote:
Sounds like you have a grounding issue with the amp install. You'll probably find it will only do it when the alternator is working harder so after starting when it is trying to put more back into the battery or when you have other things turned on to increase the load.
Weird...I replied to this on Friday but there is no reply here!
Ah well, I'll try again. Not really keen on ripping apart the boot and testing the all the connections! I didn't add any new grounds, just used the existing ones in the DSP loom.
The video was after my drive home from work which is about 40 minutes - so the battery should have been nice and full. There was no change in load either. All I had on was the radio and the A/C and they were both running for the whole journey. The noise started just a couple of minutes before I took the video.
I think I might just learn to live with it unless it causes any other, more significant, issues.
Lpgc wrote:
Hello Police I just heard gunshots. Ahh no it's OK my mate said it was just on the telly lol...
Huh? I feel like I'm missing something or that something just went over my head lol
Gilbertd wrote:
You haven't got the stereo on have you? That sounds like alternator whine through a stereo usually caused when the bonnet earth strap isn't connected or an alternator suppressor isn't fitted (but there isn't one on a P38 anyway). Does it get louder if you turn the stereo up?
We might have a winner.
It happened again this morning on my way to work. In the video, I only stopped my music to hear it rather than turned the radio off. Before starting the recording I tried turning the volume all the way down but that had no effect on the noise - I then stopped what I was playing as it was a podcast and I didn't want to miss too much of it.
This time, I actually switched the radio off and the noise went away instantly. It didn't come back when I turned the radio on though.
It does happen on both fuels. The video doesn't show the change over from LPG to petrol and back again, I did that before I started recording.
The noise was exactly the same on both fuels.
Gilbertd wrote:
Not making that V8 rumble they haven't. What exhaust are you running David? It sounds wonderful.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262391772282
This is what I bought, the 94-99 is £274.99 and both are a good bit cheaper if you contact them to join their Trade Club
Gilbertd wrote:
You haven't got the stereo on have you? That sounds like alternator whine through a stereo usually caused when the bonnet earth strap isn't connected or an alternator suppressor isn't fitted (but there isn't one on a P38 anyway). Does it get louder if you turn the stereo up?
Standard radio and DSP has been swapped for an Android double din and door amps, had to turn music down/off to hear it.
no10chris wrote:
You sure someone hasn’t swapped out your lump for a tdi, sounds like a turbo whistle, definitely one to think about,,
They better bloody not have lol
Gilbertd wrote:
Not making that V8 rumble they haven't. What exhaust are you running David? It sounds wonderful.
Allmakes mild steel standard exhaust from Maltings Offroad (and probably several other places).
no10chris wrote:
Have you tried revving with bonnet open and using your hand to throttle it, with the doors shut your eliminate the whistle through stereo if it’s still loud and clear, if still there it’s got to be a split hose somewhere, could be anything connected to the inlet, cruise control, vacumn hoses, have a look round, it’s most probably in front of you.
That will be my next test...when it comes back again. Aren't intermittent problems just the best?