Looking at the first two images and they're making brain hurt. In the first one the passenger side radius arm looks bent and the driver side looks straight. Then in the second the driver side looks bent and the passenger side looks straight.
What's going on?!
Yeah, it is handy. I get to use it for free any time I want outside of my own working hours.
The only catch is that it's about 40 minutes from my house and my tool box is bloody heavy to lift in and out the car.
Worth it though - proper air lines for tools, proper facilities to drain, catch and dispose of all the fluids. All the fluids on pump at cost price (top spec stuff too, being a main dealer). Massive big skip for throwing away old parts too. Best bit, though, is if something goes wrong or I get stuck there's a bunch of highly trained techs there, many of whom I'm pretty good friends with :D
Best I could do:
The ramp didn't quite go high enough/I couldn't get close enough to the ground to get fuller shots. It also didn't occur to me to close the workshop door to improve the lighting in the last shot until after I had taken the car out of the workshop. D'oh!
I tried to take a panorama shot using a creeper but it didn't really work so well.
How much of the underside do you need to see?
I can put mine up on a ramp at work but i don't think it will go high enough to get the entire underside in one shot.
Likewise, I can put it over a pit too but I still don't think I can get the whole underside.
Clive603 wrote:
I use a little plastic syringe to pull it out. Came with a two stroke oil pack for the strimmer I think. Holds 10 or 20 cc.
Clive.
The one that comes with Calpol works a treat too. Did that yesterday after changing the brake pads in my dad's car.
Ferryman wrote:
Reading all the preparations you all are making for Summercamp makes me feel sorry not to attempt.
I wish you all a good weekend, above all, have fun!
Me too, I was saying to Richard when he popped over to my office to look at my HVAC error code that I felt bad for not going so I could give something back after all the advice I get here. I feel like I take more than I give on this forum (due to a relative lack of experience and knowledge on these cars) and I was looking forward to being to help everyone.
Unfortunately, the timing means I can't be away from home but I'm certainly going to attend the next one :P
Even though I'm not there physically, I'll be there in spirit. This weekend I'm swapping suspension air bags and the radiator on my own driveway!
New air springs just showed up :D
Found this in the box:
Lets just throw that away. Slightly concerned that the Dunlop springs I purchased have arrived with Britpart paperwork...
My AC drain also allowed water to run down the front corner under the A-pillar. The water found it's way on to the kick panel and ran along that until it met the corner and ran down there too.
I must admit you've got me on the issue of it only happening while switched off though.
Smiler, I forgot to ask before - did you find any signs of where your roof shower is getting in from?
Gilbertd wrote:
Not to be left out, I've got a foot bath in mine, a little puddle on the rubber mat on the passenger side. Mine should be simple though as it will be either the pollen filter housing or the self tapper directly above it.
My foot bath seems to be playing games with me.
It shows all the hall marks of it being the AC drain yet will only do it when/after it rains heavily.
A few weeks ago I stripped out and sealed all of the pollen filter gubbins on the N/S but the footwell still got wet.
I cleared out the AC drains and it stopped leaking. It was then completely fine for a few weeks, even through the crazy heat we had where I had the AC running round the clock. Until it rained at the end of last week and over the weekend - at which point I have wet footwells again!
It could just be coincidence. I poked the AC drains again yesterday and some dirt came out - no wet footwell on the way home last night or in to work today.
It's actually a very good safety feature in the event of a flash flood.
There's no chance of the vehicle floating away and risking crushing some poor unfortunate soul as the inside will simply fill with water in a matter of minutes and stay exactly where it is! It also makes it very easy to find you car after such a flood.
How thoughtful of those Land Rover engineers!
Ah, I thought Sloth was saying that the air pressure would dismount it from the hole in the body it exits through.
Doesn't matter now though, I couldn't locate the rear ones. I guess I need to take the arch liners out to find them. Same for the front although I was able to access the top end of the front ones.
Puffed some air down from the top then followed it with the cable. The cable came out the bottom no bother at all and the tubes appear to be clean as a whistle. I think I need to investigate the windscreen possibility next.
I pulled the interior light out and had a good look around with a torch but I couldn't even see any evidence of water having been in there at all - let alone the source of the actual leak!
Felt around with a finger but it was all bone dry. Odd.
I know one thing for certain though - I need at least one new air spring. O/S/F began deflating as soon as the wheel was off the ground. Pushing it around sealed the leak and it's not leaking with the weight of the car on it. I think I'll order a pair of fronts.
Sloth wrote:
I'd be cautious of using an airline as the hoses coming down from the sunroof are only pushed into the rubber bits that pass through the body. The rear ones on mine are only in about 1cm and it isn't a particularly tight fit. If you do have a blockage, I imagine they will pop out quite quickly on the inside.
The airline tube is nice and narrow so I'll be able to hold on to the tube with some long nose pliers and hopefully stop it pushing in.
I think I have a spare reel of CAT5 up in the switch room. I'll have a look.
Ah, ok. That's good to know. I was looking at the guide on the other site and it said to note the one way valves. I assumed this meant there was actually a valve in there somewhere.
I can just jam an airline in and go at it then.
It was already leaking when I got in the car this morning so must have started while parked.
It seemed to slow the further in to my journey I got but it didn't stop completely.
Car is going over a pit at lunch, I'm hoping I can remove the one way valves at the exit ends of the drain tubes and shove an airline up them to clear any blockages. I can check behind the light at the same time and perhaps pour some water over the windscreen to check it.
It's going to save me so much time in the mornings, I can shower on the way to work!
It's started pouring with rain again and have a another new leak. I have water dripping from my interior light, right on to the gear lever and surrounding area.
Time for a stupid question now: is there anywhere except the sunroof/blocked drains that this could be coming from?
The reason I ask is that the headlining is completely dry, even around the interior light, and when I opened the sunroof the channels around it appeared to be pretty much completely dry. There was some wetness to the rear of the sunroof where it disappears in to the roof but the interior light is forward of the sunroof opening.
On a previous diesel P38 I had a relatively new Land Rover belt let go.
Not really sure what the cause of the failure was but it seemed like all of the ribs separated from each other and wrapped themselves (extremely tightly!) around the fan and a couple of the pulleys. Cutting that mess out wasn't fun.
https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-britishcars/jlr-classic-works-opens-its-doors/36381
I really hope they get around to the P38 with this project.
I won't be able to afford a proper factory restoration but the renewed availability of currently unavailable parts would be nice!
Sounds a little backwards to what I normally hear.
I usually hear stories of how cars drive better in winter, with the colder air.
If you are getting better engine performance at the moment I say just enjoy it!
Yeah, I think that's what I'll do. I'll just keep my out for a really cheap mirror on eBay that I can cannibalise.
Cheers.
So the bit that handles the reverse dip isn't part of the main motor/adjustment mechanism then?
That's annoying. It works in my current mirror.
I might look at trying to glue the arm back together again with something else.