Hello folks,

This doesn't really fit in either oily or electrical so I've stuck it in here.

Does anyone have a spare rear washer jet they could swap with me for some beer tokens? Mine is actually missing and I can't find a replacement. I even have one on back-order at the local main dealers.

Cheers,

Smiler.

It was all rewired by myself in accordance with official installation instructions as the original 'professional' installationwas appaling.

It only powers on when the ignition is on. The problemis when you turn the ignition off; it takes time to power down. So when you then press the key-fob to lock it the receiver is being swamped by the phone signal as it shuts down. If I turn the phone off before turning the ignition off it is fine.

I shall re-locate the control unit back to the other side, only in a better manner than the previous effort.

Aerial itself is located on the roof near the back.

Tomorrows job then. Though the complete re-location and re-wire will have to wait as I have a garage to clear and an Essex lump to pull from the yellow Scimitar.

Hello folks,

I recently rewired the old carphone (Nokia 6090) back into the P38 and on installing a shiny new sim card this evening I am happy to report that it is up and running.

However, the paranoid security system doesn't seem to like it as it has been ignoring the key from then on, requiring the eka code each time.

When re-installing the system I relocated the main module in the rear off-side wing cavity, near where the security aerial receiver lives. So I suspect that the signal is swamping the security system.

This phone has been fitted for some time before my ownership and the phones module was previously tucked down beside the sub in the near-side rear wing area. WOuld that short a distance really make that much of a difference? Or could the loop of aerial cable in its new location be creating some sort of interference?

Regards,

Smiler.

Cool, next time I'm in there it will be getting neutered...

Rather than cut the aerial wire could I not just unplug it?

Couldn't distinguish whether the Park indicator was doing anything but had to use the EKA code again.

Happened to be going to the main dealers. On arrival in the carpark amongst the shiny new (how on earth can you call that a -) Range Rovers she behaved herself again. Locked on the fob unlocked on the fob and started straight away.

Ah, thanks for the tip regarding the 'Park' indication. I shall remember to look for that in future.

My Rover 75 I had previously wouldn't allow me to lock it whilst the key was in the ignition and the engine running (meaning I couldn't leave it out in the cold to defrost itself). Though I never try'd with the engine off.

Can't try it with the P38 as I only have the one key.

Oh, and no, I haven't got a Nano yet. It's on the wish list but so are brake discs, a satnav/headunit thingy and a lot of Scimitar parts...

Morning, and Happy New Year. :)

It was a second generation module.

As far as I am aware, no new toys in the neighbourhood.

However, I do have a suspicion. I had noticed that occasionally the dashboard would claim that the key was still in the ignition. I am wondering if the microswitch has become gummed up and has now stuck making the vehicle think that the key is still in the ignition, hence the refusal to lock.

Hello folks,

Last night my 1996 P38 suddenly decided to stop responding to the key fob when trying to lock it.

This morning I had to enter the EAK code to start it.

On arrival at work it again refused to respond to my attempts at locking it on the fob.

The LED in the key flashes on pressing the buttons and the batteries aren't very old, though are not Duracell.

In the past few days the vehicle has been randomly 'unlocking' itself whilst I've been sat in it but whilst the key was out of the ignition barrel (after getting in or before getting out, I don't tend to just sit in it no matter how nice it is in there).

A few months ago I replaced the security receiver filter thingy with one from a later vehicle.

Before I go hunting through the interweb does anyone know of anything simple/obvious to check? Are these recognized symptoms of something with a known easy and cheap/free fix?

The vehicle is usually trouble free and reliable.

Cheers,

Smiler.

Hmm, lots of food for thought there. Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply.

a 55 profile opens up a few more affordable options compared to the 60 profile.

Hello folks,

My P38 needs a new set of boots. It has had later 18" alloys fitted before my ownership.

Tyre size: 255-60-18

Does anyone have any recommendations for the £100 to £125 each mark?

I would like something with some off-road pretensions rather than straight road tyres. I don't do any proper off-roading (yet) but do drive on grass cairly often.

Thanks for any help.

Smiler.

You must have great fun when it comes to changing the headlamp wiper blades...

Cheers, I have just been looking at those. I need to sort it sooner rather than later to avoid damage to the micro-switches.

Going to see if that vogue is still at the breakers tomorrow to relieve it of its receiver (and a clip for the lock rod).

Parked at my parents drive where I've never had previous issues.

However, two things have come to light:

1) The buttons on my key fob have gone a bit lumpy.

2) The operating rod inside the door had become detached from the lock barrel (clip missing).

So it may not have been an interference issue, it may just have been the key fob. As I had to move it to let my dad out for an appointment I had to reach in through an open window to unlock it, setting the alarm off. The following faffing about must have knocked it out of sync.

Sorted!

Many thanks, no lights (that I could see) on the dash but no chirps either. The the satisfying clunk of the central locking un-locking on the last turn of the key!

Mine was the single lock to start method.

Now to research how to stop this from happening again.

Cheers.

Thanks for the quick replies.

Sloth, no I haven't. I've just read that one since so am now waiting.

Orangebean, thanks. As with many of my vehicles I have the 'change-over year' model.

I haven't noticed the indicators but I am getting a chirp each time I move the key which if nothing else is confirming the operation of the micro-switches.

Hello folks,

I have the "Key Code Lockout" message on my dash and an upset alarm system.

I have try'd entering the EKA (confirmed correct by my local main dealer) without success.

There appear to be two trains of thought on how to enter it.

1 turn to lock, followed by the code, followed by unlock (L1, Ra, Lb, Rc,L d, R1).

4 turns to lock, followed by the code, followed by unlock (L4, Ra, Lb, Rc,L d, R1). - Possibly post '96 models?

Are there any other iterations to try?

All doors were closed, though some windows were open.

Thanks for any help.

Smiler.

I must have an export model. My NSR is good but the OSR has bubbled and deformed a bit.