Oh, ok. Thanks for that. It does seem a rather large lump to randomly fall off without noticing.
I shall have a play over the weekend if it's not too hot out...
Hmm, can't see anything wrong with the harmonic damper. In fact I can't see the blumin thing at all! Just two empty bolt holes...
Could only see the harmonic balancer on the rear, Will have another look for the front.
Steering damper has been suggested by a Defender owner. I have removed it and although there is resistance to movement I am not sure if it is enough to do its job. It also drives no differently without it fitted.
I shall have a look for the front harmonic balancer first and failing that Isuspect I may need a new damper regardless. Unless of course RAVE givesdetails of how much resitance it should give so that I can test it...
Hello folks, I am wondering if I can please call on your collective experiences?
Yesterday morning my P38 (Diesel Auto) suddenly developed a vibration that starts at 20mph and then fades out above 30mph, coming back more subdued at 70mph with a feel very similar to when you drive over the rumble strips on the edges of a motorway.
The vibration at 20-30mph is quite pronounced and is felt through the floor and pedals. It is felt as a general vibration through the steering wheel as opposed to any direct forces being felt through the steering.
There were no preceeding warnings, I haven't hit anything as far as I am aware and I have not noticed any unusual noises (over the clatter of the diesel engine :) ).
I have accelerated hard from standstill to load everything up with no vibration issues or unusual behaviour until I reach the 20-30mph bracket.
I have yet to try locking it in gear and driving through to see if the gearing has any bearing on it.
I have had the front wheels off and rebalanced today with no improvement.
Whilst the wheels were off I checked over the front axle but found nothing amiss.
All four front ball joints were replaced with quality new items last year.
It has had good quality new tyres and brake discs in the past six months.
The nearside wheel bearing assy. was replaced about a month ago.
I have had an initial check of the prop-shafts and cannot feel any play in the U/Js. I will try lubricating them when I get chance, assuming that there are grease nipples (off to check RAVE again straight after this).
Has anyone experienced similar? The internet suggests that it is more common to have vibration issues at higher speeds.
Any help or pointers greatfully recieved.
Regards,
Smiler.
Some people get all excited about the viscous coupling to the rear failing. In fact there are a number of them running with the rear propshaft removed due to failure. But I seem to recall that replacements are about £300 so hardly the end of the world.
Apart from the grill and wheels I quite like it. I wouldn't have fitted a twin exhaust to a stright six engine either, that's a bit naff but other than that. At least someone recognised the P38 as being worth their effort and money.
I have OMP pads fitted at the moment, but they do like to squeak when cold. Braking is not noticeably better or worse than whatever was in there before under normal driving. Don't know what they'd be like going down a steep hill fully loaded with a trailer on the back. I would hope they would be good considering the brands reputation.
I bled mine yesterday after doing some work on the modulator and it all bled up lovely with a nice firm pedal. Until I was just finishing off the last bleed nipple (nearside front caliper on the pressure system). Suddenly the pedal went 'limp' and no fluid was being pushed out.
A quick check re-bleed of the master cylinder bleed point on the modulator unit (lower forward one, the first one you bleed) released a slug of air that had found its way in there. Once clear again full system operation was restored.
I'm not saying that this is the same as your problem but it might be worth a go.
Wow... I have recently been idly looking at 4.6 V8s on ebay (cheap ones seem to be a bit scarce at the moment) but then I don't need a project, I already have the Scimitars and still harbour a burning desire for a Series 2 109".
No blown fuses and the pump does run and build up pressure.
Tomorrow I intend on withdrawing the spoll valve and sleeve from the front of the brake modulator and make sure it is all moving. Then bleed it all to death!
That's the plan, though I suspect it will end up sat in the shed until I suddenly need it.
Fitted without any great dramas. As I had reassembled the hub assembly last year with a smear of graphite grease after replacing the ball joints it came out without much of a fight. I still however resorted to me scissor jack trick.
The dirt guard on the new one wasn't quite in the correct place as the ABS sensor hole was out of alignment so that was a but of an unnecessary nuisance but other than that, no worries. Old one does feel quite rumbly, though no real play in it yet.
Hello folks,
A few months ago I rebuilt my brake modulator with the mod kit to fit the stainless diaphragms.
I had a notchy pedal before that I used to have to push through to get the brakes to work properly. I had assumed that this was due to split plastic diaphragms but on fitting the mod they were both fine. I did have some binding in the pressure spool valve though that after a bit if light cleaning with some very fine wet & dry fixed that issue.
The brakes were improved after rebuild but I soon had the ABS light come on. Shortly after some light binding of the spool valve returned. I had assumed that the spool valve needed a little more polishing and was getting set to do this.
But today the brake pedal has suddenly gone a lot softer. It still brakes but I suspect that I have lost the power side of the system as it no longer has the same braking force for the amount of pedal travel.
I intend to go out and check fuses first as I don't recall hearing the ABS pump fire up but I have a head full of poridge at the moment as I am suffering a bout of man-flu...
Over the weekend, god willing, I will take the plug out of the end of the modulator and withdraw the preassure spool valve and sleeve for a bit more polishing (being very carefull not to over do it and induce leak-past).
Well I have taken the plunge and ordered the complete hub assembley. I need a quick turn around so can't risk finding either a seized rusted in bearing, desintegrating dirt guard or missing seal leaving me stranded.
ooh, 29th might be tricky as it's a big wedding anniversary for my parents...
I've a wedding to attend on the 8th Sep (and a wheel bearing to replace by the 7th sep...)
I can't seem to find wheel bearing replacement covered in RAVE, anyone know where to look?
If I go down the bearing route, what else is required? Any seals? Do the dirt guards generally need replacing?
Oh, and anyone try'd these:
:)
Wow, that is a big press. I wonder if the old hydraulic press at work is still available...
Hello folks,
The front nearside wheel bearings are showing early symptoms of failure (whining on the road that changes with road speed and changes in direction, movement felt through wheel when rocked vigorously).
I had been warned many moons ago that the bearings come as a complete cassette within the hub and that I'll be looking at circa £300 per unit.
But eBay is littered with bearing cassettes without the hub for circa £40.
Is this the normal way of buying wheel bearings?
Asking on here as I'm away from home at the moment so have no access to RAVE.
Cheers,
Smiler.