Hello folks,
Is the EAS Pressure regulator/relief valve ever known to give problems?
My EAS doesn't hold pressure. It sags at the back and the pump is constantly kicking in and out.
It has four new airbags fitted and both pump and valve block have been rebuilt with overhaul kits.
It transpires that the kit I used was a rubbish one (orange seals) as proven by the number of leaks that have since been rectified by a universal O-ring kit from Lidls in the interim.
The soapy water check shows no evidence of leaks from the valve block or any of the pipe connections. The only connection I didn't get at to check was on the air tank.
I can hear air escaping from the valve block when I switch off. It's hard to tell but its definitely from underneath and I think from towards the front.
That's why I'm wondering if it could be the pressure regulator venting.
I will be ordering a decent rebuild kit at the end of the month as I didn't have anything suitable for the small inner o-rings on the valves which could explain the saggy rear. Can anyone point me in the direction of a known proven supplier of a proper reliable kit?
Regards,
Smiler.
Hello,
The head unit has been dodgy since I bought the Range Rover the other month. It now produces no sound no matter what is selected. All I get is a rough high pitch whine of moderate volume from the speakers whenever the head unit is switched on.
It is a 96 model with the premium sound system so has amps in the doors.
I am hoping the fault is with the head unit with it being all sound channels that have gone as opposed to the amp system.
I will be replacing the head unit anyway. I know I will require an adapter to match the new head unit with the amp setup but if the fault is actually with the amp system then the adapter will be pointless.
Is this a known failure of these head units when they get old or is it likely to be the amps?
Thanks for any help.
Smiler.
Hello folks,
Due to the recent inclement weather a previously undiscovered fault has revealed itself with the windscreen wipers.
Selecting up for one sweep works fine.
First position down for intermittent works, erm, intermittently if you get what I mean. The variable adjustment doesn't appear to make any difference and the intermittent timing seems to do as it pleases.
Second position down for normal constant wiping does nothing.
Third position down for high speed constant wiping appears to be working fine.
The rear wipe is also rather hit & miss.
I am assuming this is all down to dirty or worn contacts within the stalk switch gear but thought I'd come on here and see if this rich source of information has any views.
Is the stalk something that can be taken apart and cleaned/repaired or have they proven to be constructed in a similar fashion to a nail bomb with parts springing out in all directions on opening the thing up?
Thanks for any help.
Smiler.
P.S. The headlamp wash/wipe is working fine, albeit in need of new blades.
Hello folks,
I dropped the sump on me DSE yesterday to clean out any build up of sludge as part of my future proofing of my new purchase as although it is low miles for its age it has no history. I was very pleased to find that there was no sludge or deposits of any kind whatsoever. The engine has obviously been well maintained.
Of course now that I have disturbed the sump and dipstick tube I have invoked an oil leak! But I don't mind that, it's a small price to pay for the knowledge that the engine is in such good health. Next week its the turn of the autobox if my drum of oil turns up in time.
Well folks, as the title asks, is it possible? Are there any additional physical components required?
Just musing more than anything at the moment but as I live on the edge of the Salisbury Plain the musings might develop into something in the future if it is viable.
Hello folks,
As the title asks, is there enough clearance to remove the sump from the diesel with the engine still fitted to the vehicle?
Regards,
Smiler.
Hello folks.
The tailgate release has suddenly stopped working. I can here the mirco-switch behind the push button operating.
I have had the door card off and checked that the electrical plugs are securely fitted to the latch.
As I understand it, the earth path from the boot release switch passes through the drivers door latch. Can anyone tell me which pin on the multiplug is the connection from the tailgate button? My intention is to hot wire that cable straight to earth and try the button to see if the fault is at the door latch or with the button.
Thanks for any help,
Smiler.
Hello folks,
Whilst taking the front axle apart to change the ball joints it became apparent that a new pair of brake discs are in order.
Shopping around the bizarres' I found these:
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-disc-drilled-grooved-ntc8780cdg-sdb000470cdg-p-28661.html
Seemed a bit cheap for a set of four, has anyone had any experience of them? Are the fronts still vented?
Not particularly after grooved and drilled discs, it just seemed a cheap set of four (though saying that, I got four mintex discs and pads for my Rover 75 last year for £80).
Hello folks,
Today I am tackling the front axle ball joints (not that the rear axle has any).
Martyuk (was great to finally meet you last night after all the advice and encouragement you've sent in my direction over the years and good to know that there is someone relatively local with all the right knowledge, cheers.)has very kindly lent me the extraction tools and his 'well loved' ball joint splitter which is fortunate as my own one isn't big enough. He has also lent me a spare old brake disc for 'bashing' duties.
So far I have got the vehicle on axle stands with both front wheels off, cleaned the alloy corrosion from the hubs and scraped the accumulation of dirt from the axle ends. After a brief battle I have managed to get the nearside disc retaining screw out and the caliper out of the way but the disc itself will not budge no matter what I throw at it. I might have to resort to heat. Te brake discs are in a worse state than the old one Martyuk has lent me so I'll be replacing those in a couple of months.
The hub retaining bolts are all loose and I'm about to attempt to prize the ABS sensor out.
I'll keep you all updated as to progress.
Smiler
Hello folks,
I have discovered the cause for the clanging coming from the drivers door each time it's closed. The roller mechanism inside the door for the check-strap has broken apart. Does anyone have a spare knocking about? I have been offered one on the facebook page for £15 delivered but money is fast running out now and I still have my brake lines to sort and the steering drag link to replace for the MoT let alone what else I might find (the tailgate has now gone dead as well to add to the list).
My new toy went in for its first mot today and has failed.
Failures:
Brake pipe excessively corroded off-side rear (front to back)
Brake pipe excessively corroded Nearside rear
Drag link end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged - nearside front
Drag link end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged - offside front
Suspension arm ball joint excessive play - nearside front lower
Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged - nearside front
track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged - offside front
Advisory:
Suspension ball joint cover deteriorated - offside front lower
I think I need a hug...
A quick question due to lack of experience of these things. When trying to reverse up a steep incline I really have to rev the engine to get it to move.
Is this normal due to the size of engine and the weight of the vehicle?
Is it indicative of a need for new/more transmission fluid?
Is the reverse clutch within the autobox on its way out?
The vehicle is a 1996 model that has just clocked over 100k.
Cheers,
Smiler.
Arse-hats!
Replacing the perished front air-springs today. The front drivers side lower pin has sheared off on trying to withdraw t. The olds springs have alloy base plates so it lloks like the alloy has corroded inside and gripped the pin. Any suggestions before I get the hack saw and tin of swear-words out?
Hello,
Sorry for the lame post but my shiny new (21yr old) 1996 Range Rover has it's original cassette deck and a CD multi-changer (minus cartridge thanks to the cockwomble who sold it to me) which isn't impressing the wife and kids. It has Harmon Kardon speakers fitted, does this mean it has the uprated sound system? If so, does this mean that there are issues with imply fitting a replacement head unit?
Thanks for any help,
Smiler.
Hello folks,
Been a Land Rover fan since childhood and once owned a 1965 88" many moons ago. I have hankered after another Land Rover product ever since and always had a soft spot for the Range Rover Classic. However, being a realist I knew that the P38 would be the more practical to live with and recently I finally managed to take the plunge.
I'm not very good at keeping threads updated on forums so I'm going to be cheeky and post a link to my project thread on Retro Rides.
There are quite a few people on there who are curious about P38 ownership but are weary due to the scare stories. I'm hoping my thread might change that a bit. It would be pointless doing such on here as I would be preaching to the converted.
It might also get the odd bit of exposure in Practical Performance Car magazine as I have a monthly column with them, though the editor isn't a fan...
I will no doubt pester you all for help and guidance, I've already learnt a huge amount from many of you.
Cheers,
Smiler.