The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
119 posts
Jun 17 2018
13 August 2018 - 15:50

I've been pouring through some lesser forums ;)

And there are quite a few engine upgrades available.

Mustang Injectors which i think are Bosch Gen III units.

Tornado Chips

Cylinder head porting/polishing

And High lift cams

Are the above upgrades worthwhile?

People have said 300hp is possible with a healthy engine..

They've also said Fuel economy has improved slightly..

Is this to be believed or is it all hearsay?


13 August 2018 - 18:02

She's on the original engine!


I'm not looking at tailing racing cars in my Range Rover lol

Just aiming to give her slightly more grunt. :)

I plan on doing a top end refresh in the future hence the heads and cam queries, just wondering whether its worth "upgrading" while it's apart..


03 November 2018 - 23:01

That is definitely head gasket blowing between cylinder and outside world..

Like this one!


01 March 2019 - 22:57

My 4.6 Thor starts 60D, quite odd this ;)

20 June 2019 - 19:00

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Not too doom and gloom I did smear some on paper and it seemed "brown" rather than Black..

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In two minds whether to keep the unit in, change the oil etc or rebuild the donor I have and throw that in?

She did shift ok, however on the return journey around 1 1/2 years ago now whe did tend to hold in high gear until the engine really struggled.indicative of old fluid i suppose.

03 March 2019 - 16:11

1 i've finally much to my wallets dismay, bought myself a door latch and handle and am currently waiting for it to arrive!!

Anyway i have a few questions?!

1 the rear tailgate doesn't work, i've been told it grounds through the door latch?

2 fuse 12 or 15 can't remember blew when the latch went bust, is this par the course?

3 Is there a sequence to fitting this latch? do i do it with the battery disconnected?

Oh and i'm uber excited, hopefully i'll get to hear the V8 after a year of sitting!!!!

Cheers all!

03 March 2019 - 18:33

No not one of marty's I got a 2n'd hand one, tested with a 30 money back guarantee.

He also has 100% positive feedback. so i'm not too worried.

When i pressed the tailgate button the fuse went pop!

and it kept going pop until i disconnected all the wires in the tailgate.

rear wiper, rear release button and associated wires.

Which was odd as she worked perfectly the day before!!!

03 March 2019 - 20:03

Oh so it's most likely the latch motor that has failed in the tailgate causing the fuse to blow?

Would the Drivers latch and tailgate be connected in some way?

For both of them to fail at the same time?

21 March 2019 - 19:35

You can swap the key blades across fobs to keep your original transmitter.

23 August 2019 - 14:27

My passenger side door is superlocked I believe!

The inside handle and outside do nothing!

Even the central locking won't open it!

The tab that sticks out the cars is also Limp, doesn't feel like it does anything..

Any hints?!

Thanks chaps"

17 June 2018 - 14:40

Can a Mechanic even afford to run a Range Rover i wonder ;)

Ah i guess i'll find out in the future,

Ah hindsight. :)

17 June 2018 - 16:47

Than you very much for the Nice welcome Rob.

I have noticed P38 prices have firmed up.


17 June 2018 - 13:48

Hello All

I'm Henry!!

17yrs old with a LR sized hole in his life he had to fill

My first car is a 2002 Mini One

but i always fancied a Land rover as a after college side project, with the new emission law that is probably going to be enforced i looked solely at Petrol LR's and RR's

Originally i was looking for a Disco 1 v8 but the styling and rot didn't quite do it for me so i skipped them and started looking at Series landies and older defenders.

However the prices were way too steep.

I kept trawling ebay and It occurred to me how Cheap certain Range Rover were.

My eye was trained on a few

1995 4.0 SE

1998 4.6 HSE

Or 2001 Vogue.

Ofter looking at all of the above i settled on the Vogue.
It seemed like the perfect vehicle.

upon inspection the carpets were soaking. Heater Matrix O-rings probably..

quite a few scratches including a massive Dent in the rear quarter.

125k high or low mileage?

Big battery drain.

She hadn't run for months

and tbh i am/was questioning my sanity

Plenty to get along with

Thanks For Having me..

A few questions

1 She is A late 2001 Vogue and the owner was swearing that the colour Monte Carlo Blue was a one of a kind colour? is it that rare?

2 Are P38 deserving of major restoration like RRC's

3 What is the difference between the Thor 4.6 and the Gems 4.6.

4 What is the difference between the "vogue" and "hse" i have seen many HSE range rovers vastly outspec the same year Vogue so what is in the name?

Finally some Pic's he he he

Bad ones First eh?

The above is a picture from under the rear bumper, the rear bumper mount seems to have rotted off, not ideal i know.

The bumper is being held up by a Ziptie


The interior is a bit of a mess..



She has Satnav..... doesn't work..


This is a Video i just uploaded but it is 10months old.

The first time she started in months.

ran rather well.


Thanks for having me and reading this incredibly long post.


17 June 2018 - 14:38

oilmagnet477 wrote:

Not sure about 1 of a kind as I've seen a few out there whilst looking myself but it is a great colour none the less.

Welcome from a fellow newbie - only had mine about a month and just working through a few elements that I hope will avoid being stranded (see my intro post for details).

I'd say that 125k is about average for the year - I'd keep doing oil changes for both engine and gearbox (annually or 5k?) - having just done GB oil and filter, I can confirm that it is quite straightforward. Bit of advice - WD40 the GB sump bolts in advance and use a 1/4inch drive to undo so you can feel if they are going to give and not snap off! Also read somewhere that changing the engine oil and refilling before changing the filter keeps oil in the pick up pipe - not sure of the credence for this but it seems to make sense.

I opted for a lower spec car - no heated seats or screen and no sat nav and very limited seat electrics. IMO the satnav is more of a comedy add on these days and the rest I can happily live without. I was also lucky (?) to find a non sunroof car. I'm 6' 5" so prefer the added headroom.

Where abouts are you?

Good Luck

I'm down south west area. ;)

She'll be good practice as i'm training to be a motor vehicle mechanic. :)

I'm pretty good at wielding the spanners lol it's just the computer bits that i need to become proficient in. ;)

Headroom isn't an issue for me being a measly 5ft9 compard to you, lol

17 June 2018 - 16:54

Gilbertd wrote:

125k? Barely run in, I'm at 359k on a 98 4.0 litre on LPG. Like anything else, look after it and it will look after you. To answer your questions:

Colour isn't so much rare as wasn't that popular so there aren't many about in that colour.
Unlike the RRC the P38 does not rot away in front of your eyes. Externally the only place you will find rot is on the rear wheel arches, front lip of the bonnet and bottom edge of the tailgate. Underneath, unless they have lived somewhere harsh (like near the sea), rot is very rare except, as you have noticed, the rear bumper mounts.
GEMS signifies and engine fitted with the Lucas Sagem Generic Engine Management System and used up until the 99 model year, recognisable bu the boxy intake plenum. Thor has the Bosch engine management (no idea where the name came from) and the bunch of bananas intake manifold. This gives a longer inlet tract so improved bottom end torque.
Trim levels vary greatly and seemed to change about as often as the man fitting the interiors changed his socks. HSE and Vogue are both the top trim levels with slight variations. You should have just about every option going so far more to go wrong......

Headlining kit is £60 from Martrim (https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) and will take two people less than a day to do it.

Give it an oil and filter change but be wary of the filling process for the auto box (as you don't have a dipstick like the earlier GEMS engined cars do).

Things you will need to do are make sure the air suspension is working as it should without leaks. Air springs are £50 a corner from Island 4x4 and you can refurb the pump and valve block for under another £50. With a car that looks like it has been neglected you'll almost certainly have the book symbol showing on the HEVAC so you'll need to do some work there too. Hopefully you got at least two keys with it and the central locking all works on the fob as it should, otherwise it WILL lock you out and immobilise itself sooner or later.

The electronics are what mainly gave the P38 the poor reputation. Very early cars had some weaknesses which were sorted by 97 but the biggest problem is that nobody understood them. Mechanics deal with things that go up and down or round and round so electrics are, and always have been, a bit of a black art. Once you get your head around how things work they are just as simple, just don't let them frighten you.

Get yourself a copy of RAVE (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/10-how-do-i-mend-it) and you'll find it far easier to work on than a bloody BMW Mini.......

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Funny you should mention the Locking system, around 4 weeks ago the Drivers door lock actuator went on the fizz.

The car is currently immobilised and the door handle broke from he trying to put in the EKA code, the key just goes round and round.. grr.

The rear Tailgate button also went which as i understand is linked to the Door actuator somehow?


I've watched this video a few times and i hope fiddling with the with it might coax it into working.

17 June 2018 - 17:14

Gilbertd wrote:

StrangeRover wrote:

I've put a new Rad in it, and the Water pump was done around 1 year before i bought it..

The seller told me exactly the same when I bought the SE. Unfortunately he'd fitted Britpart so the water pump started leaking after 2,000 miles and the radiator not much longer afterwards......

Tbh i think proactively changing the Waterpump would be best


17 June 2018 - 16:58

Gilbertd wrote:

Also, I forgot to mention the most important thing to look after, the cooling system. Deal with any leaks immediately, make sure the water pump is perfect (if not, replace if with an Airtex one, definitely not a Britpart) and the same goes for the radiator. Overheating the engine is a sure way of killing it.

I've put a new Rad in it, and the Water pump was done around 1 year before i bought it..

She has a folder full of expensive receipts lol

I'm guessing the previous owner got fed up of fixing it and left it under his conifer tree ;)

18 June 2018 - 13:52

Tanks Marty.

i've managed to disassemble the door..

the metal arm had broken and was held in with glue!!


The key barrel seems to be completely fecked.

I've pulled the door lock out and i'm in the middle of disassembling it,


It has apparently been tested.


Seems this was a reoccurring issue.


19 June 2018 - 17:28

Thanks all for the advice.

17 June 2018 - 20:32

Thanks all loving this forum and the people in it BTW.

I posted this on RR.net and they had nothing to say lol

I've got the special laser tool to remove the viscous fan luckily it was easy to remove when i did the Rad.

The waterpump didn't seem to have any play, but again i believe its a britpart pump so i'll probably replace it


I've dismantled the door and tbh it looked like someone had gone to town on the inside.

there was no foam behind the door card and the torx bolts that held the Lock actuator were mangled so i'm assuming this has been a problem before.

The Actuator works if you lift the locking mechanism manually but i believe the Microswithes have given up because all the dash says is "press key fob" and when i do nothing happens,

The RF receiver is all connected.