Changed the Oil..
Runs good on the stuff, easily the quietest it has ever been..
I've fitted it to another car to rule that out, still nothing..
And it drops to 9v when cranking
Nowt has been done to them.
It has never been discharged, and has always been above 12.5v
Fine until a few days ago, when it refused to start the car, still reading over 12v weirdly.
I need one!
I've gone through two Mf31-1000s in two cars, so not happy with them..
Anyone else got a recommendation on one that will fit?
as I said it dropped off, specifically it went down quickly to 12.4v..
Might be below now..
Dead battery tonight, very convenient!!!!
Well it was near dead after 4 days of sitting, the engine barely turned over.
So hooked my jump pack on it and off she went..
Did around 55mi round trip and came home, upon hooking the multimeter to her it seems she is running at 14.11 which is good even with the headlights on
However after turning her off it dropped from 14.11 straight to 12.6 volts, and it started to drop quick quite quickly..
I would assume there would of been some kind of surface charge on the battery after a run, which it didn't seem to show...
Hankook MF31-1000 only a year old!!!
After leaving her for a 2 minutes she went to sleep so nothing is keeping her awake...
Mine does that funny EAS jiggle when parked..
The valveblock on mine i know doesn't leak, it must be height sensor related I think.
Gave the underside a good coating of underseal..
I dunno what the fook they spread on the roads over here but my stainless exhaust while not rusty is tarnished with fuck knows what..
No clicking it is completely dead, however shutting the key off and retrying and she's up and running!
Some people I've read say it could be the fuse box, however what difference would turning the key on/off do to a faulty fuse box?
Or something more sinister?
Recently the old girl has taken to not spinning the starter motor on the first turn of the key, however shutting the key off and trying again gets her to start..
It isn't happening every time but it's an annoyance!
Probably for the best I pay £340 a year for my P38 and only do around 4000mi per year in it..
I'm assuming there are a few electrical connectors to remove.
The steering shaft and gearbox linkages?
If there are no leaks above a certain speed "5mph" rings a bell the EAS should be dormant and not adjust when on the move..
The compressor should only run on the move if it is trying to compensate for a leak in the system, mine used to when the diapragm was worn and allowing the storage tank to leak out the exhaust.
When I'm driving the compressor never kicks on, until I stop and she levels the front.
Anyone done it?
My old bus has some crust underneath in an area I can't get to, apart from cutting a hole in the body of the car the only solutioon I can see it to lift the body off.
My Valveblock at 130k was original never rebuilt and the only item that needed attention was the diaphragm.
everything else was like new, odd.
I wonder what causes excessive NRV wear in some blocks.
I know a chap on LandyZone that I believe has replacements if anyone is interested.
Hmm that could be possible, the main giveaway of front pump bearing wear is an ATF leak.
I know mine has it!
Could it be rocker shaft wear?
I have a britpart rad on mine surprisingly good quality.
Anyway, whats that rattling?
It isn't the rust so much as it is the lack of accessibility to descale and treat said rust.
The upper shock brackets for example would ideally need the body lifting to either repair or replace.
I've given the chassis a good going over and the rear has taken a hammering!
Must of been launching boats before I bought it!
Ahh bastard thing.
Seems her life by the sea has done a number on the old girl.
Rear shock mounts are quite crusty, not really accessible unless you're either made of rubber or can lift the body off the chassis.
Just something to check!