Anyway i have a few questions?!
Oh and i'm uber excited, hopefully i'll get to hear the V8 after a year of sitting!!!!
No not one of marty's I got a 2n'd hand one, tested with a 30 money back guarantee.
He also has 100% positive feedback. so i'm not too worried.
When i pressed the tailgate button the fuse went pop!
and it kept going pop until i disconnected all the wires in the tailgate.
rear wiper, rear release button and associated wires.
Which was odd as she worked perfectly the day before!!!
Oh so it's most likely the latch motor that has failed in the tailgate causing the fuse to blow?
Would the Drivers latch and tailgate be connected in some way?
For both of them to fail at the same time?
You can swap the key blades across fobs to keep your original transmitter.
I've been pouring through some lesser forums ;)
And there are quite a few engine upgrades available.
Mustang Injectors which i think are Bosch Gen III units.
Cylinder head porting/polishing
And High lift cams
Are the above upgrades worthwhile?
People have said 300hp is possible with a healthy engine..
They've also said Fuel economy has improved slightly..
Is this to be believed or is it all hearsay?
She's on the original engine!
I'm not looking at tailing racing cars in my Range Rover lol
Just aiming to give her slightly more grunt. :)
I plan on doing a top end refresh in the future hence the heads and cam queries, just wondering whether its worth "upgrading" while it's apart..
That is definitely head gasket blowing between cylinder and outside world..
Like this one!
My 4.6 Thor starts 60D, quite odd this ;)
Can a Mechanic even afford to run a Range Rover i wonder ;)
Ah i guess i'll find out in the future,
Ah hindsight. :)
Than you very much for the Nice welcome Rob.
I have noticed P38 prices have firmed up.
17yrs old with a LR sized hole in his life he had to fill
My first car is a 2002 Mini One
but i always fancied a Land rover as a after college side project, with the new emission law that is probably going to be enforced i looked solely at Petrol LR's and RR's
Originally i was looking for a Disco 1 v8 but the styling and rot didn't quite do it for me so i skipped them and started looking at Series landies and older defenders.
However the prices were way too steep.
I kept trawling ebay and It occurred to me how Cheap certain Range Rover were.
My eye was trained on a few
1995 4.0 SE
1998 4.6 HSE
Or 2001 Vogue.
Ofter looking at all of the above i settled on the Vogue.
It seemed like the perfect vehicle.
upon inspection the carpets were soaking. Heater Matrix O-rings probably..
quite a few scratches including a massive Dent in the rear quarter.
125k high or low mileage?
Big battery drain.
She hadn't run for months
and tbh i am/was questioning my sanity
Plenty to get along with
Thanks For Having me..
A few questions
Finally some Pic's he he he
Bad ones First eh?
The above is a picture from under the rear bumper, the rear bumper mount seems to have rotted off, not ideal i know.
The bumper is being held up by a Ziptie
The interior is a bit of a mess..
She has Satnav..... doesn't work..
This is a Video i just uploaded but it is 10months old.
The first time she started in months.
ran rather well.
Thanks for having me and reading this incredibly long post.
Not sure about 1 of a kind as I've seen a few out there whilst looking myself but it is a great colour none the less.
Welcome from a fellow newbie - only had mine about a month and just working through a few elements that I hope will avoid being stranded (see my intro post for details).
I'd say that 125k is about average for the year - I'd keep doing oil changes for both engine and gearbox (annually or 5k?) - having just done GB oil and filter, I can confirm that it is quite straightforward. Bit of advice - WD40 the GB sump bolts in advance and use a 1/4inch drive to undo so you can feel if they are going to give and not snap off! Also read somewhere that changing the engine oil and refilling before changing the filter keeps oil in the pick up pipe - not sure of the credence for this but it seems to make sense.
I opted for a lower spec car - no heated seats or screen and no sat nav and very limited seat electrics. IMO the satnav is more of a comedy add on these days and the rest I can happily live without. I was also lucky (?) to find a non sunroof car. I'm 6' 5" so prefer the added headroom.
Where abouts are you?
I'm down south west area. ;)
She'll be good practice as i'm training to be a motor vehicle mechanic. :)
I'm pretty good at wielding the spanners lol it's just the computer bits that i need to become proficient in. ;)
Headroom isn't an issue for me being a measly 5ft9 compard to you, lol
125k? Barely run in, I'm at 359k on a 98 4.0 litre on LPG. Like anything else, look after it and it will look after you. To answer your questions:
Colour isn't so much rare as wasn't that popular so there aren't many about in that colour.
Unlike the RRC the P38 does not rot away in front of your eyes. Externally the only place you will find rot is on the rear wheel arches, front lip of the bonnet and bottom edge of the tailgate. Underneath, unless they have lived somewhere harsh (like near the sea), rot is very rare except, as you have noticed, the rear bumper mounts.
GEMS signifies and engine fitted with the Lucas Sagem Generic Engine Management System and used up until the 99 model year, recognisable bu the boxy intake plenum. Thor has the Bosch engine management (no idea where the name came from) and the bunch of bananas intake manifold. This gives a longer inlet tract so improved bottom end torque.
Trim levels vary greatly and seemed to change about as often as the man fitting the interiors changed his socks. HSE and Vogue are both the top trim levels with slight variations. You should have just about every option going so far more to go wrong......
Headlining kit is £60 from Martrim (https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) and will take two people less than a day to do it.
Give it an oil and filter change but be wary of the filling process for the auto box (as you don't have a dipstick like the earlier GEMS engined cars do).
Things you will need to do are make sure the air suspension is working as it should without leaks. Air springs are £50 a corner from Island 4x4 and you can refurb the pump and valve block for under another £50. With a car that looks like it has been neglected you'll almost certainly have the book symbol showing on the HEVAC so you'll need to do some work there too. Hopefully you got at least two keys with it and the central locking all works on the fob as it should, otherwise it WILL lock you out and immobilise itself sooner or later.
The electronics are what mainly gave the P38 the poor reputation. Very early cars had some weaknesses which were sorted by 97 but the biggest problem is that nobody understood them. Mechanics deal with things that go up and down or round and round so electrics are, and always have been, a bit of a black art. Once you get your head around how things work they are just as simple, just don't let them frighten you.
Get yourself a copy of RAVE (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/10-how-do-i-mend-it) and you'll find it far easier to work on than a bloody BMW Mini.......
Thanks for the detailed reply.
Funny you should mention the Locking system, around 4 weeks ago the Drivers door lock actuator went on the fizz.
The car is currently immobilised and the door handle broke from he trying to put in the EKA code, the key just goes round and round.. grr.
The rear Tailgate button also went which as i understand is linked to the Door actuator somehow?
I've watched this video a few times and i hope fiddling with the with it might coax it into working.
I've put a new Rad in it, and the Water pump was done around 1 year before i bought it..
The seller told me exactly the same when I bought the SE. Unfortunately he'd fitted Britpart so the water pump started leaking after 2,000 miles and the radiator not much longer afterwards......
Tbh i think proactively changing the Waterpump would be best
Also, I forgot to mention the most important thing to look after, the cooling system. Deal with any leaks immediately, make sure the water pump is perfect (if not, replace if with an Airtex one, definitely not a Britpart) and the same goes for the radiator. Overheating the engine is a sure way of killing it.
I've put a new Rad in it, and the Water pump was done around 1 year before i bought it..
She has a folder full of expensive receipts lol
I'm guessing the previous owner got fed up of fixing it and left it under his conifer tree ;)
i've managed to disassemble the door..
the metal arm had broken and was held in with glue!!
The key barrel seems to be completely fecked.
I've pulled the door lock out and i'm in the middle of disassembling it,
It has apparently been tested.
Seems this was a reoccurring issue.
Thanks all for the advice.
Thanks all loving this forum and the people in it BTW.
I posted this on RR.net and they had nothing to say lol
I've got the special laser tool to remove the viscous fan luckily it was easy to remove when i did the Rad.
The waterpump didn't seem to have any play, but again i believe its a britpart pump so i'll probably replace it
I've dismantled the door and tbh it looked like someone had gone to town on the inside.
there was no foam behind the door card and the torx bolts that held the Lock actuator were mangled so i'm assuming this has been a problem before.
The Actuator works if you lift the locking mechanism manually but i believe the Microswithes have given up because all the dash says is "press key fob" and when i do nothing happens,
The RF receiver is all connected.
I don't have the funds at the moment to replace it, so i'm gonna have a crack at fixing it myself.
Oh and Marty
Thanks for the Offer, i'm ok at the moment lol
If i need anything i'll be sure to give ya a shout!
The door lock tends to make a horrific rattling noise occasionally when its fiddled with.
This broken piece in the Pic below.
It has broken in the old key barrel and its proving difficult.
How do you pull the barrel out of the handle?