Also when i reconnected the wires both front doors have locked and i can't open them!
The passenger side door won't unlock manually and the manual lock feels rather loose..
So i think it's safe to say both actuators are toasted.
Grr
I'm gonna have to wait till i have a stable cash supply and extra time!!!
H
:edit:
I know the wires are wired correctly, the bodge did work so i labelled the wires and have reconnected them the same way.
I wondered what this plug was for in the glove box lol
https://i.imgur.com/ARBxCb7.jpg
I've removed and refitted the lock quite a few times, each time i've had to unravel and re solder the separate wires!
https://i.imgur.com/ZFFclGS.jpg
Why would the previous mechie do this?
Is there a known fault with the block connectors?
My Old man used to have an XJ jeep S568KNK.
Tiny little things when compared to even the Classic RR
P38 looks like a beast ;)
This Pic was taken a few months ago just after getting her home..
The MC blue does shine after being Detailed
She looks a tad worse for wear now lol
Weird question time..
My Vogue has an off brand LPG system fitted, offbrand meaning i don't know who made it..
Of course when i come to put the RR on the road in a few yrs i will have the system overhauled.
Will LPG be in your opinions the next best fuel for our thirsty V8s when Electric cars take over?
There doesn't seem to be any hate towards LPG at the moment.
It's apparently a very clean fuel.
Also what do you think will happen to service stations when the number of petrol and diesel cars start to drop?
Will there be dedicated LPG stations i wonder?
H
Thanks for the responses guy's..
Appreciated..
First of all Sorry for the landslide of threads i'm creating lol.
Anyway.
I've been looking through google and it seems RR P38 could be had with some lavish OEM options.
I:E The extra wood i've been really lusting after.
Another few things upgrades are the exterior bits
The Front nudge car and light guards i rather like, also the side steps in my opinion look rather smart.
What do you think?
Are there any other OEM upgrades/addons i should consider?
I've been toying with the idea of colour coding the Front Grille.
my Vogue would look like the link below.
whatya fink?
359k that must be one of the highest mileage P38 out there!
Hopefully over the coming years i'll become as proficient at fixing and diagnosing as you and the other guys lol
I live in hope lol
TBH i can't give an opinion on the classic or L322 so it's nice to hear what ya'll have to say about them.
The Classic is an amazing vehicle but the RR P38 seems to take all the good of the classic and just make it into a better looking and more capable package.
The L322 is just a little too pimp mobile for my tastes and it's adorned with far too much chrome and bling.
In my opinion, yes it is,
My biggest reason for thinking this..
1 The styling to me is brilliant it is the last of the proper Range Rovers in my eyes, the L322 and beyond looks a bit too bling.
The 38a is just elegant
It's hard to put into words but it's the last Range Rover that has Classic Class and elegance.
The L322 and beyond just look far too PIMP for my liking.
Thats my main reason for thinking it's IN MY OPINION the best RR yet.
Sorry to hear this..
RIP OrangeBean
Loving this thread!!
Gives me inspiration for My Vogue non SE lol
Thanks all for the advice.
The door lock tends to make a horrific rattling noise occasionally when its fiddled with.
This broken piece in the Pic below.
It has broken in the old key barrel and its proving difficult.
How do you pull the barrel out of the handle?
I don't have the funds at the moment to replace it, so i'm gonna have a crack at fixing it myself.
Oh and Marty
Thanks for the Offer, i'm ok at the moment lol
If i need anything i'll be sure to give ya a shout!
H
Tanks Marty.
i've managed to disassemble the door..
the metal arm had broken and was held in with glue!!
[img]https://i.imgur.com/PejncIll.jpg[/img]
The key barrel seems to be completely fecked.
I've pulled the door lock out and i'm in the middle of disassembling it,
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Rib38Isl.jpg[/img]
It has apparently been tested.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/xfnQS4il.jpg[/img]
Seems this was a reoccurring issue.
lol
Thanks all loving this forum and the people in it BTW.
I posted this on RR.net and they had nothing to say lol
I've got the special laser tool to remove the viscous fan luckily it was easy to remove when i did the Rad.
The waterpump didn't seem to have any play, but again i believe its a britpart pump so i'll probably replace it
I've dismantled the door and tbh it looked like someone had gone to town on the inside.
there was no foam behind the door card and the torx bolts that held the Lock actuator were mangled so i'm assuming this has been a problem before.
The Actuator works if you lift the locking mechanism manually but i believe the Microswithes have given up because all the dash says is "press key fob" and when i do nothing happens,
The RF receiver is all connected.
Gilbertd wrote:
StrangeRover wrote:
I've put a new Rad in it, and the Water pump was done around 1 year before i bought it..
The seller told me exactly the same when I bought the SE. Unfortunately he'd fitted Britpart so the water pump started leaking after 2,000 miles and the radiator not much longer afterwards......
Tbh i think proactively changing the Waterpump would be best
Cheers.
Gilbertd wrote:
Also, I forgot to mention the most important thing to look after, the cooling system. Deal with any leaks immediately, make sure the water pump is perfect (if not, replace if with an Airtex one, definitely not a Britpart) and the same goes for the radiator. Overheating the engine is a sure way of killing it.
I've put a new Rad in it, and the Water pump was done around 1 year before i bought it..
She has a folder full of expensive receipts lol
I'm guessing the previous owner got fed up of fixing it and left it under his conifer tree ;)
Gilbertd wrote:
125k? Barely run in, I'm at 359k on a 98 4.0 litre on LPG. Like anything else, look after it and it will look after you. To answer your questions:
Colour isn't so much rare as wasn't that popular so there aren't many about in that colour.
Unlike the RRC the P38 does not rot away in front of your eyes. Externally the only place you will find rot is on the rear wheel arches, front lip of the bonnet and bottom edge of the tailgate. Underneath, unless they have lived somewhere harsh (like near the sea), rot is very rare except, as you have noticed, the rear bumper mounts.
GEMS signifies and engine fitted with the Lucas Sagem Generic Engine Management System and used up until the 99 model year, recognisable bu the boxy intake plenum. Thor has the Bosch engine management (no idea where the name came from) and the bunch of bananas intake manifold. This gives a longer inlet tract so improved bottom end torque.
Trim levels vary greatly and seemed to change about as often as the man fitting the interiors changed his socks. HSE and Vogue are both the top trim levels with slight variations. You should have just about every option going so far more to go wrong......Headlining kit is £60 from Martrim (https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) and will take two people less than a day to do it.
Give it an oil and filter change but be wary of the filling process for the auto box (as you don't have a dipstick like the earlier GEMS engined cars do).
Things you will need to do are make sure the air suspension is working as it should without leaks. Air springs are £50 a corner from Island 4x4 and you can refurb the pump and valve block for under another £50. With a car that looks like it has been neglected you'll almost certainly have the book symbol showing on the HEVAC so you'll need to do some work there too. Hopefully you got at least two keys with it and the central locking all works on the fob as it should, otherwise it WILL lock you out and immobilise itself sooner or later.
The electronics are what mainly gave the P38 the poor reputation. Very early cars had some weaknesses which were sorted by 97 but the biggest problem is that nobody understood them. Mechanics deal with things that go up and down or round and round so electrics are, and always have been, a bit of a black art. Once you get your head around how things work they are just as simple, just don't let them frighten you.
Get yourself a copy of RAVE (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/10-how-do-i-mend-it) and you'll find it far easier to work on than a bloody BMW Mini.......
Thanks for the detailed reply.
Funny you should mention the Locking system, around 4 weeks ago the Drivers door lock actuator went on the fizz.
The car is currently immobilised and the door handle broke from he trying to put in the EKA code, the key just goes round and round.. grr.
The rear Tailgate button also went which as i understand is linked to the Door actuator somehow?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cFxlA5n5Dg
I've watched this video a few times and i hope fiddling with the with it might coax it into working.
Than you very much for the Nice welcome Rob.
I have noticed P38 prices have firmed up.
Henry.