Old P38 2001 V8 has had the 3 amigos for a while ABS t/C and handbrake light..

Initially I thought it was the accumulator, the abs pump would run for every peddle press, new accumulator fitted and it only runs after 10 pedal presses.

However the lights are still on...

Unfortunately I don't have a nanocom, any ideas as to what the issue could possible be..

I have noticed that if you put moderate pressure on the brake pedal it hits a "hard spot" and then sinks over an inch downwards..

Could air in the system cause an ABS issue? possibly.

Thanks.

Considering the age of even the newest P38 I seldom read issues regarding a RV8 totally packing up, on here or other forums sure you get some right basket cases that have had less than a handful of oil changes in its whole life and a cooling systen that was completely neglected, some overheated to the point of pinking etc i'd say for an old V8 they're quite robust, certainly much stronger than the M62 that came in the l322.

As for anything older RRC were odd we used to say the range rover has rotted off the engine as the body/chassis would usually go beyond repair long before the engine gave up ha.

I've worked on several RV8 powered cars never had one with a bad liner, my old mechanic mate has owned more than 30 RV8 V8 powered vehicles and even he said liners weren't what killed them.

You can get a split flange clamp EXAMPLE https://www.amazon.co.uk/Qiilu-Exhaust-Flange-Replacement-Accessory/dp/B087G9WRQT/ref=sr_1_14?c=ts&keywords=Car+Exhaust+System+Clamps%2C+Flanges+%26+Hangers&qid=1695494450&refinements=p_36%3A304526031&s=automotive&sr=1-14&ts_id=4920116031

I can't remember the width of the exhaust i'm sure someone else does but those work ok to replace the old flange clamps that tend to rust off.

New stem seals.

Wrapped manifolds, a good sight easier to fit than those tin bastards.

And studs.

Engine is now back together and runs great..

very happy.

Internal components of the Rover V8 are quite strong, Richards 400+ thousand mile motor is a good example,

Of course neglect and abuse it and the motor will deteriorate quickly.

As for the M62 idea with vanos the m62 produces 280hp and and 440nm and you can't really get more from it..

Putting the cost of fitting the M62 aside if it is even possible, a camshaft, tornado map and some headwork you'd get a 4.6 to the same level if not slightly more powerful, so swing and roundabouts eh!!

As for diesel!!!!

eek..

..

You can build a rover v8 to over 300hp with a mountain of torque to go with it..

Maybe i drive like a granny but i've never found the stock 4.6 lacking in punch, unless it has no compression and the proverbial cam that has had the lumps lathed off it..

ok great..

Thanks.

Thanks Richard, am i right in thinking the thor uses Zirconia sensors and the gems uses Titania ?

Thanks, it runs fine for a few seconds after cold start, but it's down hill from there.

As for fault codes it seems to show all of the above, slow response and open circuit.

Hiya gents i've put the old 38 back together and she runs, no leaks

However it has a slight misfire at idle, she's showing faults for both 02 sensors, would I be correct in assuming that they are most likely to blame for the misfire?

Annnnnd.

I'm looking at new sensors is there a specific type I need to get for the thor v8?

cheers all

H

Sounds easy enough..

Thanks.

Hiya Gents having an issue with removing the hub,

I'm doing the balljoints and I've taken out the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle but the bloody thing won't shift..

Is it a case of just beating it off with a hammer or am i missing a trick??

Thanks.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

Put her all back together seems i bust one of the injectors refitting them petrol pissing out of one of them..

bastard...

Why the Fuk does the fuel rail need to come off to get the lower intake on..

bloody design flaw, especially with 20yr old plastic....

Oh yes I had a moment of idiocy when I first got it and I plastered red conduit over everything, that jubilee clip is only loosely holding the red shyte on..

And no the A/C does not work, it never has seems it leaks from somewhere, it had a new condenser a few years ago the drier looks very corroded so i imagine it leaks from out of that..

I did find when I was doing the heads that the ac line that attaches to the bulkhead, the bolt could be tightened 1/4 turn, so could be that too?

dunno, would like to have it up and running but to be fair the HVAC needs a full recon, new blend motors etc etc..

Almost back together now..

well chuffed with the studs, so much easier than those stupid TTY bolts.

Ah ok thanks Richard.

I've got a set coming for my v8.

looking online there Seems there is some confusion on the final torque I've read 65 lb/ft and others say 85 lb/ft final torque?

Cheers

It could be the injectors are sticking, usually a direct 12v feed frees them off, 2 wires and a battery make sure they are all clicking/working.

Had the same issue with an old Jeep ZJ that ran LPG its whole life, the injectors were intermittent sometimes they would fire, other times not.

exercising them with a direct 12v feed freed them off..

worth a try.

Heads off, all the liners are still in place and the bores still have their crosshatch..

Turners have got headbolts for £30 those or something else?

I've seen studs but they're £210!!