My P38 early on in its life had a single point LPG system fitted, according to one of the previous owners it used to backfire through the manifold and ruin the MAFS
I have an intake pipe that has been blown apart, which is odd.
My question is, can you make a Thor V8 run on a single point system?
It ran ok sometimes but not always. Allegedly.
She now has a multipoint system on her.
My other question is.
Is it right for an 84 litre tank to give only 150mi range?
Surely i should be able to get more?
I find myself wondering how you all shift your autos,
The people in the know say you should come to a complete stop before going from D-R or vice versa.
Myself in the 4,000 miles i've had her i myself have never really come to a complete stop, usually 1mph in either direction,
It seems to "go in" smoother when it is moving slightly..
Not too doom and gloom I did smear some on paper and it seemed "brown" rather than Black..
In two minds whether to keep the unit in, change the oil etc or rebuild the donor I have and throw that in?
She did shift ok, however on the return journey around 1 1/2 years ago now whe did tend to hold in high gear until the engine really struggled.indicative of old fluid i suppose.
I've seen a few threads on coolant temps...
I haven't hooked my 4.6 up to my reader yet to check coolant temps..
What would be an acceptable range to expect?
Everything to do with the cooling system is new..
Just as precautionary maintenance!!
Aye up chaps.
I thought the ole' P38 was leaking coolant through the rear core plugs, long story short i believe the water has entered the bellhousing through the TQ bolt access hole, the rubber bung is missing..
Do you all find the coolant level "settles".
Mine settles at around here,
But never goes below?
If i top it off, it goes back down and settles there.
Odd Q i know!
Another question gents.
When accelerating gently she changes up at around 1500rpm which is about right..
However when she gets to 35mph she seems to change from 3rd to 4th lockup seemingly missing 4th altogether and instantly locking the converter..
The annoying thing is it'll hold 4th down to 30mph which makes for jerking around if you are a bit hasty with the throttle and it's a tad annoying if you want to overtake a cyclist or whatever as it just labours.
she changes down below 30...
I find i have to go past 1/2 throttle before it changes down to what i think is 3rd..
I have changed the oil in the box..
Would it be something to to with the TQ apply circuit in the valvebody or is it more of a TCM related thing?
Just ordered some Castrol Edge FST 10w60 for the P38..
Anyone else used it?
An unusual issue that has plagued my P38 since i bought it is an iffy cold start.
If you fire her up the revs will bounce between what seems like 250 and 1000rpm, it'll do this a few times before settling down to a good idle. if you give her some throttle it sorts itself out faster.,
However I learnt that if you give her a TINY bit of throttle when starting it stops the hunting but will settle to a very low idle..
Once it's HOT she purrs like a V8 Kitten and sits at the correct idle speed.
I should note there are no misfires..
I have an issue with my LPG as known by almost all in the pub I suspect..
Originally it worked OK however one day an idiot "me" ran it out of gas, and that was the end!!
I noticed the audible "click" that would emanate from the LPG tank wasn't anymore,
And the LPG gauge/button would/is just flashing..
I pulled the cover off the tank..
had a gander inside and found this fairly innocent looking, relay????
i'm assuming it has ceased to do its intended job, whatever that was.. lol
The Tank itself if an 84ltr unit and seems to have been fitted to the titanic before being thrown into my old girl!
Absolutely covered in surface rot, and no water doesn't get in through the seals.
It has an OMVL vaporiser
OMVL DREAM INJECTORS
She has a full tank of Gas and she has been running LPG since 2002 from what i can gather, which would explain how well it runs and how clean it is inside lol
Just wondering today after topping her off..
The oil is quite clear even after 1500mi,
Castrol Edge 10w60.
Looking online at the Viscosity index of some oils, i've come to the conclusion that ELF and Total who are one the same are on top with a VI of 186..
Compared to an average of 160-170 from other brands..
Just curious to know what ya'll use on 'ere!!
The front accesory drive was quite noisy, a definite bearing failure!
The old tensioner below an original DAYCO part 20yr old.
The brand new Tensioner, again a DAYCO part was completely fuckered out the box, it sounded worse than the old one!!!
Rocked from side to side too!!
She needed a new alternator too, atleast the new one fitted!!!
I've been pouring through some lesser forums ;)
And there are quite a few engine upgrades available.
Mustang Injectors which i think are Bosch Gen III units.
Cylinder head porting/polishing
And High lift cams
Are the above upgrades worthwhile?
People have said 300hp is possible with a healthy engine..
They've also said Fuel economy has improved slightly..
Is this to be believed or is it all hearsay?
Just a general question..
My recent idle issue has made me think of oil pressure, today it has been sat at 150rpm when cold and 450 when hot, one thing i noticed is the Oil pressure light didn't flicker or come on solid..
Also when turning her off the Oil pressure light takes 7 seconds to come on again...
I'm guessing that is a good thing.. ??
She is running 10w60 Castrol Edge..
Motor sounds lovely too, even at a stupidly low idle!
Right i've had this a while..
When releasing the throttle quickly at lower than 50mph the car shunts.
I've got a feeling it is the radius arms giving up..
Doesn't do it when accelerating!
Full of swarf and particles!
I did a simple fluid drain and refill in 2017 at 124k now at 127k i did a fluid and filter change..
the last filter change before me was 2003!!
The filter came apart with a pair of pliers..
I've bought a 70mm and I' not really sure whether a 70mm can be used.
The idler I'm replacing is
The idler below the AC compressor.
I'm not usually one to endorse the ramblings of these additive companies...
However after using both their PAS additive and Transmission stop slip, both of which worked really quite well I decided to try their oil additive.
My Old V8 recently started a nice Cam follower tick on cold start and when Hot, i'm assuming because the oil thinned out and that tappet lost prime..
At idle it was irritating the hell out of me so, whats to lose with the Lucas?
Consistency wise it is very sticky, it leaves greasy strings like hot glue, so be wary of that!!
I drained out some of the 10w60 to make room..
New stuff took an age to pour in, in hindsight I should of warmed the bottle up..
A good hard drive ensued, and upon returning home the TICK was no longer present, even with my ear in the arch which is where it was really prevalent..
I've since Started it from cold too, and the tap has disappeared there too...
So it sum up..
It does work in some cases....
Here is the Cold start rattle...
after being sat for 2 weeks
ABS TC and Handbrake lights are constantly illuminated regardless.
The HB one is puzzling as it is on regardless of whether the handbrake is on or not!
Brakes are perfect etc
Any ideas chaps.
I've heard of a good few peeps who have a T-Maxx duel battery set up on their P38.
2 things i've been wondering is..
Where does the 2nd battery go?
And How does it in a nutshell get wired into the vehicle?
AND is it for prurely accessory purposes or can it be used as a backup to the main battery?