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Would a ride on Morats Nanocom give any further diagnosis?

No dedicated diagnostics. Just generic. Morat's closest to me with Nano.

Everything appears to work as it should, except the air should be hotter. It's warm, but set on HI, it should be unbearable.

Everything feels hot. Idon't have a probe or anything to take temps with so i'll struggle with that.

Plugged computer in and got the following.

Revs going between 700 and 725

Coolant got up to 90 degrees with gauge sat just off centre where it usually sits. Rose to 93 degrees while i was pratting about but putting a bit of throttle on quickly brought it back down to 90.

LPG reducer is flickering between 77 and 81 degrees. Appears to go down a couple of degrees to between 75 and 79 when you run the heating on Hi.

Just clamped flow with a big ass clamp. No change in heating. Then i stuck one on return so both were clamped but still no difference.

Guess that rules that out?

not sure if follow.

Are you saying instead of feeding the reducer from the flow, feed it from the return?

Can i temporarily take the reducer out of the circuit to see if the heating then works?

Been out this morning and ran it at idle.

Both flow and return pipes to the heater matrix heat up the same. Top hose of radiator seemed to heat up at about the same rate maybe just a bit after.

Can have different temps at passenger and drivers side but still not hot. Just warm.

Pressed program button and air came out of windscreen vents. Not super powerful though and still the same temperature as the rest.

Here's a pic of where my LPG reducer is plumbed from.

enter image description here

Ok. Plenty to go on with there. Piano rebuilt so will get car in Garage tomorrow and have a poke about.

Thanks

no10chris wrote:

Low water level, lift the expansion tank up, stuff a rag under, top up the system

Level is to the line. When you say stuff a rag under, is that to raise the height or mop up spilled water??

Orangebean wrote:

Under bonnet pipes will do. Feed to matrix is the one closest to and fed from inlet manifold. Return from matrix is the one that runs down to thermostat. Speaking of thermostats, yours isn't stuck open by any chance?

How do you check astuck thermostat? It won't blow cold?

dunno. lol. But i have a starting point now.

Never noticed before as i've always had heating relatively low. Only now that it's winter i need it.

Would make sense about the LPG reducer. Could be starving heater matrix. I know that the reducer gets hot as f**k. Burned myself a few times as it's right near my EAS box.

We talking heater matrix pipes under bonnet or dash?

I'll report back.

Yet another job to add to the list.

Heater isn't blowing all that hot. Had it set to "Hi" and although it's warm, it should be a lot warmer. Same both drivers and passenger side.

No book symbols.

Coolant level looks ok.

Any pointers?

Rescue kit dispatched. lol

Be able to see if there's any airbag leaks with the valves too.

If you reckon you're up the creek in the short term, message me the address of where you are and i'll post you my set of these. Pull airlines that go to each wheel out of block and stick one of these on each. Disable EAS then go to garage and put 55psi in each bag using standard airline. No self levelling but it'll get you wherever you need to go.

Message me before 9am and i'll get down to the post office for one of them Guaranteed next day delivery jobbies!

If you suspect compressor, undo blue pipe that goes from compressor to block. Run the compressor using nanocom and stick your thumb over the end of the pipe. You shouldn't be able to stop the air coming out. If you can you either need to rebuild the liner and piston seal which is the most common or worst case compressor motor jiggered and need new compressor. Seal kit here. Video instructions here

To visually inspect the liner just watch video above on how to take the compressor head off. 5 minute job to confirm if it's banjaxed.

Ok. Will have a look at the sensors first port of call then. Just working my way through everything now that i've had the bushes done again. Potentially had one problem masking another.

Had a thought this morning while driving.

Imagine driving over tiny pea gravel in the road. Very subtle but this is the bumpy feeling that i can feel now. Not bouncing up and down or anything, just feels like you're driving on the worlds smallest cobbles. I'll be looking at my height sensors at the weekend as discussed but i wondered if my shocks are in good order. If i had bad shocks, would that cause problems with the height sensors?

Usually you'd bounce a car up and down to check a shock. Since we are cursed with air suspension and can't do that, is there a way to diagnose or do you just take it off and have a look?

lol. Be a shame if it didn't.

Early days yet as i've only been on a short trip to pick the Mrs up. But i think so. Had a juddering at 1000rpm > when slowing down which i was beginning to think was under delivery of fuel. Looks like that's fixed now.

Steering wheel needs a nudge back to centre now though which will have to wait til Friday as i'm currently rebuilding a piano.

Garage man didn't do Panhard Rod tho as the bolt is stuck and then he ran out of time. I said i'd have a look myself with the blow torch. Worst case is i'll cut it off. Ebay says £12 for a new one though which is a bit steep.

New bushes are in. Top job from garage on the corner.

Check this out though. These are the bushes that were removed. The damage wasn't done by removing them. In the second picture, you can see that i was able to slide the inner out. Ripped to bits. Absolute cowboy that put them in.

enter image description here

enter image description here

Would running cooler be an issue? Isn't heat just a by-product?

Sounds like the radiator you fitted is good though. Would be interesting to have someone else fit one and compare the results.

so....Yes then? lol

Thanks Gilbert.

Is it right that left and right sensors use different pins, thus by swapping them you fix it because it's using the pin/polarity that's never been used?