Sorry. I wrote the wrong thing.
I didnt get keycode lockout. It asked to either press button or enter keycode.
Buttons stopped working altogether. Flashed when pressing but no action. Tried resetting it in the door again but it wasnt having it. Decided to go get other key rather than doing EKA.
Well that was shortlived. Buttons no work and a keycode lockout.
Had to get my mum to come pick me up, take me home for the old key and bring me back to unlock car. 20 mile round trip.
Needless to say, key number 2 has been returned to the drawer.
Dunno what would be completely clear, but first thing for me would be thoroughly clean off any oil and muck around the diff plugs and the drive flange. Then you can soon confirm or rule the diff out.
Does the liquid smell? Gear oils horrible. Knocks me sick. Lol
EDIT. Orangebean beat me to it
Success. Cheers.
Aww man. The rims dont match.
just for further clarification.
The car is currently locked and was locked using the keyfob i normally use. To attempt to resync the key i just found, do i first unlock the car using my usual keyfob and then proceed with trying to sync the new key?
EKA on standby then.
Was rooting around in the kitchen drawer today for a cork for the other job and found my other car key.
Says key 2 on the back and lights up when you press the button.
Won't unlock or lock the car with the buttons but it'll start the engine.
Thought by sticking it in the ignition it would re-sync but no.
Do you know how to get it going again?
No worries mate. It would appear that the Nanocom is no longer required for this particular problem anyway as flushing the core seems to have done the job.
Would like my emergency valves back at some point though. :-)
If you're doing a block, get a crotchet needle. Best thing i bought for the o-rings.
Back home now so i can finally leave it to cool and see if it needs anymore coolant in it.
Heating working like a champ while i was out.
Coolant temperature did at one point get up to 97 but soon came back down. Seems to sit between 90 and 93 most of the time.
Alrighty then! Heater core flushed. Got quite a bit of rubbish out.
Started her back up and first of all no lpg and no heat at all. Clearly an airlock so i gave the throttle a bit of gravy and that seemed to shift it. Heater blows ridiculously hot now which is what i expected. Checked coolant temperature with computer and that's sitting nicely at 91.
I imagine that's not the end of it as i'll need to let it cool down and top it off again.
The little bleed pipe on top of the radiator that you're meant to take off and blow through, Rave says if it's not cleared of coolant you might get airlocks. When i take the pipe off, the radiator pisses out. How is that pipe meant to stay clear of coolant if the radiator keeps filling it back up?
i've not flushed anything yet. Was gonna do it but then found a leak.
Not gonna faff about flushing it if radiators leaking. Might aswell get a new one and do it then.
As i say, there was a leak from bleed hose. tightened that and it's stopped. I've dried it all and i'll see if it returns. Might have just been that.
Little leak out of radiator bleed hose. I've tightened that and dried everything off. Will see what happens.
Can't believe the irony. Talking about poor heat and flushing the cooling system and then suddenly the radiator springs a leak? Surely not!
Radiator looks in decent nick from what i can see. Took fan cover off and had a look inside and looks relatively new. That probably means nowt though.
the tube just unscrews. Mine sometimes does it. Just unscrew the whole lot, then when it's out undo the cap. Alternatively, get some mole grips or eagle beaks to hold tube whilst you undo the cap.
Oh my god. You couldn't make it up!!!!
Just gone out to begin my flushing job and found water on bottom of radiator, a bit on thermostat and looking up, some on the bottom of the fan. Feels ever so slightly sticky and tastes a bit sweet so i assume it's coolant.
shit. My bad. wrong diagram. As i was saying. lol
When doing block thermostat would be closed so just any other connections before radiator will do to let water out? And then the radiator is in from 12 out from 5.
Got it. Cheers :-)
And if by chance while doing block water comes out of top of radiator, then that means thermostat is stuck open and i need a new 'un?
So to do heater core on it's own, undo pipes 10 and 12 and connect hosepipe to 12. Go that. Straight forward as OB said.
To do block on it's own, clamp 10 and 12, undo pipes 6 and 3 and send water up through 3 to come back out of 6?
To do radiator on its own, take thermostat off bottom and send water down hose 6?
ok. Might be best to just flush it all then.
What's best/correct procedure? Searched google but throws up all sorts
i'll get a magnet next time i'm out there.