There's 2 colour plugs.
Is the black one for up to 99 and the grey one from 99 onwards?
Try this. it wrked for Gilbert.
Orangebean wrote:
Found this when wandering around the web. Seems too good to be true (except for driving latch motors directly of course) and apart from the poster can't see anyone who has confirmed, but FWIW
How to disarm the alarm...... I have discovered a way to override the range rover alarm system. I recently had the unpleasurable experience of the transmitter not responding while the vehicle was armed in the super locking mode. So the first thing I tried was the EKA procedure.....It did not work, in fact all it did was open the driver's door and trigger the alarm. All of the other doors including the rear hatch remained super locked. I attempted to start the vehicle and got a display on the dash that said "ENGINE IMMOBILIZED". I tried to resync the transmitter and that didn't do any good. After about an hour of trying to start the truck I got fed up and took of the driver's door panel to have a look at the wiring. I found a harness that comes from the actuator and plugs into the door control module; it has seven wires in it. Orange w/ black actuator motor Pink w/ black actuator motor Blue w/ red alarm arm/ alarm disarm Green w/ red alarm disarm Purple w/ white doors unlock Orange w/ white Black ground Grounding the blue/red wire momentarily arms the alarm and locks the doors. Grounding the blue/red wire a second time activates the super locking mode. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is armed will trigger (panic) the alarm. Grounding the blue/red wire when the alarm has been triggered will silence the horn and stop the parking lights from flashing. I discovered that if you ground the blue/red wire & the green/red wire at the same time it disarms the security system even if it is in super locking mode, the immobilizer is also disarmed and allows the vehicle to be started. Grounding the green/red wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state locks the doors without arming the alarm. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state unlocks the doors. My actuator was unplugged when I tested my new findings.
My wife does that. Then goes in and buys it. Window shopping doesn't compute with her.
You could buy it just for you. At least you could have a fag in it. :-)
quite nice. Good list of jobs been done.
Why not chip your green one in and buy it?
would the guide Orangebean put up on Gilberts thread about shorting the door wires not work?
Looks basic inside aside from the leather seats. Low mileage though.
You get a boot badge yet Orangebean?
Is this a Vogue SE??? I'm sure Orangebean will know.
From what I've seen, they have a green boot badge, centre dash speaker, sat nav and chrome interior door lock surrounds amongst other varying details. The one on ebay has none of that.
Morat wrote:
Very nice work. Did you clay it first or go straight in with the G3?
Bonnet was the worst. Could feel loads of bits when I ran my hand over it. I hand sanded with 5000 grit instead of claybar then went on to the G3. Rest of car I just did with G3 straight off the bat unless there were any deeper imperfections which again I hand sanded but with 2000 grit.
Gilbertd wrote:
I've obviously missed a couple of steps. After mine had been resprayed I left it for a couple of weeks, went over it with G3 on a power polisher and then Mer (by hand). It looked so good, it's only ever been washed since then. Are you saying it wants wax on top of the Mer?
Mer is great to put on. It requires no work and always leaves a great finish. However, it is only a polish which is a very very mild form of cutting compound. It'll look great but offers zero protection from bugs, dirt, finger marks and most importantly the sun (although not too much of an issue in England). Wax is a sealing coat which is literally a layer of wax spread on top of the paintwork and as Sloth says makes the colour pop. A piece of Oak looks great but if you stick some wax or varnish on it, it brings out the grain and makes it look great. Get yourself some Farecla Wax. £12 for a litre bottle and will last you forever. It's as easy to put on as Mer. Wipe it on, let it haze, buff it off. Zero elbow grease required. I've only got one coat on at the moment but i'll be applying a couple more. It should last for about 3 months. When you noticed a mark or mucky spot on a waxed car, buff it off with a clean cloth and it'll look good as new again as the mark is on the wax and not the paintwork.
Battery arrived yesterday. It's a right beast compared to the little Bosch that was on. fits spot on.
Cheers Orangebean.
Done!
Compounded with Farecla G3 then G10, polished with Mer and then waxed with Farecla Wax. I'm not a Farecla rep. Other products are available! lol
Thanks for the paintwork comment. Ironically, that picture was taken before i'd started. lol
I don't reckon a mobile firm wouldn't do what I've done for anywhere near £150. I've spent hours hand sanding and re-colouring stone chips and I also resprayed my mirrors Let alone the time it actually takes to cut, polish and wax it. It was £30 to buy just the compound and wax. Father in law sent his in a few months ago for just a machine polish at a cost of £30. Came back looking nice and shiny but full of swirl marks, polish stuck in all of the gaps and still with loads of imperfections when you inspected it at about a foot a way. You can inspect mine with a magnifying glass and not find a mark. It's overkill by most peoples standards I imagine, but my paint looks brand new and shouldn't need doing again for years. The kind of attention only you as an owner would give and it's also 1000% satisfying to have done it yourself.
Sorted.
Found a 10% discount code for them and then found I already had £13 in paypal account. Happy days.
Thanks Orangebean.
ah a secret screw! I'll have a look tomorrow. Masking up is a PITA.
Out and about today, I got the guy at Halfords to check my battery.
Came back at 403 when it should be 600 he said. Reckons battery is on it's way out. I'm inclined to agree as it's relatively easy to drain if i'm working in it and have the doors open and wot not.
The guy offered me this or this. I happen to have a 10% off code too which is nice. However, eurocarparts have 30% off at the minute. Not sure what size will fit in. The one that's in now is a fairly small size Bosch one. The one in my last car was massive. Anyone know the maximum dimensions that'll fit and/or recommend a battery??
Ta much!
I once tried to take a side trim off but I couldn't get it to budge and I didn't want to overdo it. Not sure how they come off really.
I managed to get close into it without destroying my cutting disc. Masking tape was more for keeping the compound off the rubbers as it can be a right nuisance to get off sometimes.
Got one side done with my big polisher. Needed the compressor for my small tool for getting in round the lower tailgate paraphernalia. Been rained off now. Continue the saga tomorrow.
This weekends mission is cut and polish the rest of the car. Did the bonnet last week and it came out great. Used 5000 wet and dry to get rid of any deeper imperfections.
I've just masked the side up
Just turned the compressor on and it's died.
Great!!!
Let's not nit pick the method. Lol. I followed the rather detailed pictorial guide I downloaded. The important thing is, its done with no hiccups or leaks and most importantly, looks class!
Had it off a while back when I stripped top end. Cleaned it all up then. Doesn't appear to be knackered. Rattles freely.