oh. that's right tight if it is.

From what you've said, it would be the hydrostatic then. The brakes work, but like I say, bit of a spongy pedal and no immediacy about them.

Rave says about the rear booster bleeder. I don't have that on mine. Or couldn't see.

Hopefully with this info, somebody might have an idea of what's jiggered.

Decided that depressurising using software and re-inflating might be a basic test.

Clicked "depressurise tank" but nothing happened. Got 2 clicks from EAS block and that's all.

Clicked "depressurise springs" but nothing happened. Got a couple of clicks from block.

Tried reading faults. I lost idle but the faults box filled up. I left the faults in the box.

I reinitialised software and cleared faults then clicked "depressurise tank" and it did.

I then clicked "Depressurise Springs" but nothing happened except 2 clicks on block.

Did faults thing again, got them cleared and then springs would depressurise.

Started engine and blew it all back up. I can select all heights and it goes up and down no problem.

Once the pump stops though, the block keeps clicking. Obviously solenoids. Lasts for about 2 minutes. When clicking stops, pump kicks back in. I've swapped Relay 20 but that hasn't changed anything.

Nice view of Smilers DSE there. lmao.

Does it do false wakeup and battery drain or are you assuming because it was unplugged that it's had that problem in the past?

I bled the calipers and master cylinder. 11mm ring spanner.

Have fluid there but I think the pedal still has a bit of bounce. I'll see if the pads bed in.

I was fortunate enough to have another 4 spare scabby rims that I transferred the tyres too whilst I did this. I'd have never been able to do it with them on the car.

Tools required:

Degreaser
Wire wheel attachments for drill. (use an electric drill. You'll be at it some time)
Assortment of wet and dry sandpapers. (If the sandpaper clogs, put some soap on it. NOT liquid. lol. I mean an ordinary bar of soap)
3000 grit fine foam sanding
Ultra Fine finish scotch Brite pads
An airline (Handy to get rid of the dust, especially when you get on to paint and even more so for the lacquer)
A heat gun or hair dryer. (Heat your wheel up. I don't mean glowing, I mean room temperature. The paint will go on better)
I used 400ml rattle cans for paint. (Get 1 for each wheel. You can always take 1 back if it's not needed.)
2x500ml wheel lacquer (I used Autotek)
Etch primer. (This is the first thing you spray on. You need this as a base. It's different to normal primer as the acid eats into the metal and bonds)
Filler primer (For filling little holes and smoothing the surface. If you have a big ding or chunk missing, use proper filler for that)

Top tip. If you later get a chip in your wheel, whatever primer colour you've used will show through. Use dark for dark colours, and light for light colours. (My local shop only had yellow available and now I've got a little yellow mark on my otherwise grey wheel)

A bit of a HOW-TO if anyone would like it

Took a good 90 minutes to sand off and degrease each wheel but mine we pretty bad. Then a couple of misting's of etch primer and leave for 12 hours. Make sure you get the back edges of the spokes on the inner side or it will probably flake later. Next a few coats of filler primer leaving 15 minutes for it to flash off between coats. Then leave that 24 hours to dry before rubbing that down and apply more if needed. After your final primer coat, rub it over with the scotchbrite. Really important that your base is good or else the lacquer will highlight any imperfections by 1000%.lol. For the colour coats, build it up in light layers waiting 15 minutes between coats but without letting it dry too much. If you use a metallic paint, you can't rub down the colour coat. (non metallic you'd be fine). If you make a mistake or get a run, have to wait 24 hours, sand it out and start again.. It's a fine balance when putting the lacquer on and you need to keep a wet edge. Too light a coat and the finish wont be high gloss. Too heavy and it runs. Use the heat gun (not too close) to flash it quicker and stop any potential runs. If you've missed a bit, you can't go back and just spray that bit. You have to do it all in one go. Need to leave it for a few days to harden. I left mine a week to be sure. Then stick some polish or rubbing compound on them and finish them off. Worst part was taking them to the garage to have tyres put on. The tyre machine at the garage I used stops a couple of mm short of the rim so it doesn't scuff it. But apparently not all do. Ask about this or you'll be watching the machine scrape all of your handy work off the rim.

Hope that's of some use to anyone.

Anymore info on the LED's?

Working now.

I'm bored so I thought i'd share a couple of pictures of my wheel refurb. Did these a while ago now.

Spent some time with a wire wheel on the drill and various sandpapers. Etched primed and then filler primed (I only had yellow)

I didn't want bright silver nor black. So I ended up with this which I think is quite modern. 2 colour coats, scotchbright in between, then 3 clear coats.

Did all 4 wheels and my grill to match.

Is the headlining a nightmare to do then?

Father in law has a diesel. Sounds like an old LDV Convoy van. Takes ages to start on a morning too. Turning over forever and then won't pull up hills til it's good and warm.

Doesn't look like i'm any better off. Mind you, at least I know the compressor is fixed. Looks like it's gonna be block back out. Could the exhaust valve be sticking? It can go down when it chooses too but if the exhaust valve's stuck closed, will it just decide to go up instead? Still no faults on EAS Unlock though.

Smiler wrote:

Also turns out that I have serious engine issues. Only running on six cylinders, no sparks, down on power, smoking, sounds 'orrible...

Is that the official diagnosis or were they just taking the piss cause it's a diesel? lol

At least your headlinings good though. Might have to go it alone and do mine. Had a little patch when I bought it that seems to have spread rather rapidly across the back.

But was it vacuum tested first?

The machine at my local place is automated. It does a 5 minute vacuum test, then after that does a 20 minute or so refrigerant recovery and leak test, then finally injects new refrigerant. If it doesn't pass the vacuum test, it wont go any further.

Mine didn't vacuum first time and I didn't know where to begin looking for a leak. The guy bypassed the vacuum test and injected 100g of refrigerant. Straight away we could hear it was leaking and where from. Top left of condenser.

This is what happened with mine.

Thanks clive. Pumped pedal and fluid gone down a bit. Took it for a slow drive and brakes working but they're a bit soft. Might need to do a full bleed. Weren't amazing to start with.

Hopefully there's someone around for this.

I'm just doing the brakes and by pushing the piston back, the fluid level has now gone well above max. Whats the best way to get it back down to the right level? Caliper bleed?

Thanks

squeeze round the knob with your thumb and finger until you find the point where it flexes. then pull it off t same time as squeezing.

Good update!

Are we going to get updates from summer camp? Pictures of before and after??

It'll be like the kids have gone away for the weekend if you guys don't post. It'll be too quiet. :-)