Got a set of coils and 7mm leads for a Thor. Nowt wrong with them. I.bought new ones as I was chasing a fault that turned out not to be coils or leads.
£10+postage.
ok. I did suspect all of this but thought it best to ask. No-one ever seems to post definitive answers on forums and people are sometimes left with only half a story. At least on this forum you get a straight answer.
Be good to cobble together an LED guide of what components fit where for anyone wanting to do it.
So far I've found this and this to be the most useful. But they're not complete.
but sidelights and indicators will need to be canbus compatible led's because of low power consumption?
For example, according to paulp38a.com this bulb should be right for sidelights
current as in amps not wattage?
ok. Was just wondering if there was anything different about them.
Basically they'll be the same thing with a load resistor in, but they're of better quality and in a plug and play kit form?
What made you buy them for £70 odd quid instead of cheaper normal h4 led's with an inline load resistor?
reason I aint done it yet is cause I'm still info gathering. Read the blurb on paulp38.com. Tells you a few replacement bulbs but not all of them. As for headlights, what's the power rating supposed to be? The kit you have is 25w per bulb and an output of about 4000lumens per bulb? Is that insanely bright or is it just right? I hate them boy racers that have those piercing lights. Its like a laser pen in your rear-view mirror.
Think I've seen the youtube video of the powerful UK install. Looks good.
gonna change all my lights for led if I can. Think you can get most of the interior ones in an led equivalent.
Orangebean wrote:
EDIT- these look identical to the one's I bought. No guarantee of that though as they're from China...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/a-pair-of-50W-4000LM-LED-headlight-Kit-H4-Hi-low-Beams-6000K-White-bulbs-L9V6-/263008237534?
So this replaces both high and low beam? In just 1 bulb?
Fixed.
Flippin diaphragm. It was a new one too. Methinks I'll be sending an email of disapproval to the seller.
For your bedroom wall?
Sloth wrote:
There cannot be refrigerant under pressure in an open system bar vapours in the lines. The pressure switches are on the high side of the system, where there will be zero pressure above atmosphere.
Like I say, when I took it in, it wouldn't hold vacuum, so they injected 100g of refrigerant. When I fixed the leak and took it back, it held vacuum and then they recovered more refrigerant than they'd put in and were puzzled. They surmised an airlock.
indeed. Stripped the new block ive just bought to reveal a shiny new aftermarket one. Happy days!
so the new blocks leaks like a b*d. I've moved on to stripping down the original.
Should the diaphragm be in 3 bits??? I don't recall it was. Looks to me like the metal cap has bust off.
just fitting that replacement block and see how we go from there.
Bit of a cock up though. there wasn't a driver pack with it so lets hope it's not that.
Anyone know which way round the wires go for the pressure switch, or does it not matter?. 2 red ones.
What was the final verdict on headlining colour?
You fellas go with Oatmeal to replace the original?
I've just re-read my post and I forgot to mention that the first time I tried to depressurize, the rear went down completely but the front never moved at all.
Does this point to a solenoid?
Sometimes there's a 'pst-pst' which I know is normal.
This was just 'click-click-click-click'
Got hold of another block this afternoon. At least now I have something to test against.
Orangebean wrote:
It's almost invisible if you use a thin sharp knife.
lol. like I'm fussed about what the cut in the under bonnet soundproofing looks like.
I thought there was a "workshop"?