To reset it, am I going to need some sort of tool or software that I don't have???????
SOS!!!!!!
Suspensions gone mental. Just coming home from Aldi and it decided to put itself into extended ride height whilst driving. I knocked it back down to normal and it went down. Did it again a few minutes later and now it refuses to go back down. Light on dash says it's at extended height. Light on button says its at extended height. Press to go down to normal height and extended stays light whilst normal flashes. It doesn't go down. It vents a tiny bit but never gets back to normal height. The normal ride height stays flashing and eventually goes out only to leave extended ride height lit up.
On the plus side, it looks "mean as" driving around at extended but that's not a good idea.
No fault messages!!!
What's the score?
Been working perfect all day up til an hour ago.
Thanks for that Mark.
It was the pressure sensor. I put ptfe on the threads and screwed it back in. Sorted!
I discounted my initial query of the exhaust silencer pretty quick by sticking my finger over the end. So the answer is "No. The exhaust doesn't hold pressure. It's open and closed from inside the block"
I'll need a new exhaust. This ones dropped to bits from someone else's bodge job. Seems to me it's only job is to deaden the sound of letting air out. Currently sounds like air brakes on a bus or lorry. £20 for a new one.
I'm not sure yet as I haven't been for a drive as i'd consumed a few beers with the neighbour by this point of tinkering but I think the compressor is still kicking in too often. Might have sorted the overnight dropping but may need to do the compressor seals too. If not that, ironically could it be the pressure sensor???
got the block back off.
I agree that all air should be lost instead of just rear but at this moment in time, it's the only thing I can think that I scimpt on. I have no hylomar left. I've got ptfe tape though.
Is there a specific solenoid for the rears???
lmao. That's the easy way out. Sold anyway. However....
I took the pressure sensor off in order to do the block. I didn't have any nylock so I just ended up screwing it back in. It sounds like it could be coming from there. Would that be a good bet?
Update. It's been standing for about 15 minutes on extended height while I chew the fat with myself.
The front is still up but both back sides are down.
Rebuilt the eas block today as it was lowering overnight.
Anyway, some butchery has previously been had and the exhaust valve had been glued but not very well. Long story short, I can't fix it. it's knackered. However, I thought i'd mended t enough to get me going. I've got a hiss somewhere and I cannot for the life of me pinpoint it.
Would the exhaust valve leak air if it's not screwed in right?
I'm at a complete loss. I was meticulous.
I've checked all external airlines and they're not leaking. I've sprayed the exhaust valve but theres nothing bubbling there neither.
I used a 9v square battery and just did short clicks.
you checked for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold whilst idling?
Mine always started up and then idled at just over a 1000rpm and then settled down after about 30 secs or so. Idles fine now I've sorted injector.
I checked and cleaned everything on the top looking for the cause. Also found that my butterfly was sticking open a bit but it wasn't that.
oh, one more point of potential interest.
The p38 I sold had a new engine back in 2006 but the BECM wasn't changed. Every now and then when you'd open the car, get in and try and start, it would come up, "Engine Disabled" and youd have to press the remote to lock it and then unlock it again. Then it would start.
Maybe look into getting a remote.
Well i'm certainly no expert but I think you might want to get it looked at PDQ. lol. No good nipping to the shops for a loaf of bread and getting randomly locked out. That's if you have enough fuel to get to the shop. ;-)
On a side note, this has to be the worst anti theft system of any car I've ever come across. The faff to get back into your own car beggers belief and all the while people glaring at you as the alarm toots away.
Hope you get it sorted.
Homemade rig chucked in the bin now. Only cost pennies. Video or the one I copied here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg
Don't bother with a car battery. I just used a 9v square battery and it worked fine.
With manifold off, you can't see if an injector is leaking. You'll need to remove the whole fuel rail and injector assembly. Take each injector one by one and test. 2 of mine were letting fluid through before the battery was clicked on. I could even blow through them which means they were stuck open and leaking petrol in even when on lpg.
I really blasted the dodgy injectors with carb cleaner and let them sit for a few minutes. Then I clicked them on and off whilst spraying more cleaner through the rig. Got them freed off and they stopped letting fluid through when closed and I couldn't blow through anymore either. You'll see when it's clean cause it will spray through like a mist rather than like water through a shower head.
If you're doing it, check ohmage also. Should be 14.5 +/- 7 and you'll need a new seal kit. No point going all the way in and not changing them.
http://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Bosch-0280155-0280156-injector-seal-kit-28-V8-P1501225.aspx
The kit includes new injector filters which i'm told most people don't bother with. However, I did but they're a pain in the arse to get out.
"I've fixed it" means I have indeed fixed it. (I hope) lol. I did coils, leads and spark plugs too. Reason being, I was on a mission to cure the fault so I just bought everything that it could possibly be. Didn't need the rest of the stuff as it turned out to be duff injectors but I fitted the rest of the gear anyway since i'd already bought it. Spark plugs had seen better days so i'm pleased I did them.
Hope some of that helps.
on the range rover I sold a few weeks back I had to do the EKA after having the battery off for charge. took me 90 minutes to sort it. When entering the key code, the indicators flash after each key turn to indicate it's accepted that key turn. If you make a mistake, or it doesn't register, open the door, close it and start again.
From recollection, you have to start with the car locked.
Once you sort the EKA, stick the key in the ignition and start car. Key should then have re-synced itself.
Looks great mate. My interior is pretty good but if I wanted to make it mint, I reckon that's the way to go. That dye work on steering wheels? I've got the half wood half leather jobby but a bit of the colour's worn away on it.
Seats look mint. I'm well impressed. Was it you that posted a link to a leather dye/clean/repair website that had videos of a guy showing you how to do it?
Before and after pics would be even more impressive.
Leather looks like new. You had it redone or dyed it?
Job done and it runs!!!
RH rocker cover was a right nuisance without taking all of the plumbing out. Gasket kept falling off right at the last minute.
Next job is an EAS block rebuild and new suspension bushes going in on Thursday.
The SE at my local scrapyard apparently had hurricane wheels when that went in.
Todays finding were:
2 leaky injectors. Now fixed. No doubt the cause of the misfire so probably no need for coils or ignition leads. But have them now.
Rocker covers not even tightened. I thought the socket was spinning on the nuts to start with they were that loose.
Rocker gaskets were like trousers that had been on a washing line in icy weather.
Spark plugs were a bit eroded away.
What appears to be an oil leak from the intake manifold might be oil from the loose rockers.
Hopefully finish up tomorrow.
smashing.
I did think it should be as it says in Rave but I wanted to check. Be a right nuisance to get it wrong.
Thanks again. Your a star.