GeorgeB wrote:
Heat shouldn't be an problem. I'm smoking around in ambients of 30 degrees C and high humidity without EAS issues.
If it overheats, the thermal cut out will kick in. 30degress outside is a bit different to 120+ inside a shoe box. If indeed the cause was a worn piston seal, it might have been cooking itself working overtime.
no10chris wrote:
How the hell did a rat get in there and chew the ring, never seen one that bad, and I've rebuilt a few in my time. Gonna have a dig around this weekend, I've got a good spare block somewhere ( somewhere being the word) so if your still getting probs let me know
Thanks. I'm hopeful it's sorted but in the meantime, I bought a block and compressor from a guy in the next village. Dunno if it works though.
My sister got an A reg Metro when she was 18 (she's a bit older than me). Had a Betty Boop sticker on the bonnet. Went out one morning and someone had taken the windscreen out to steal the radio. Literally just popped it out of the rubber and stood it next to the car. That's a thief with too much time on their hands.
My clutch was engaging and I had a hole in the condenser. When they first put it on the vacuum, it wouldn't hold one. I fixed the leak and then took it back. When they put it back on, it held a vacuum and then they recovered some refrigerant. Reckoned it could have gotten air locked which accounted for some refrigerant in it despite having the hole.
put 12v directly to the compressor and see if the clutch engages. at least you can then rule that out.
I fitted britpart ones too. no probs.
Good job I had a compressor kit. Rebuilt and back on. Seems ok so far. Will find out over the weekend when driving it.
Fingers crossed, that was the problem.
Just my two penneth. I messed about with my a/c and discovered a hole in the condenser. Top left corner as you look at front. Everything was working and the air did seem a little colder but maybe that was just in the mind. I fixed the hole then it held a vacuum. Regassed and bobs yer uncle.
Well I'm no expert but I reckon this has seen better days!
i'll try that too.
Interesting that no faults come up though. Either on dash or in software.
I've not tried it with the lid off the box but that was on my to-do list.
I checked the wiring connectors this morning and made sure they were all pushed in properly. Nothing unusual stood out.
Just can't understand why this is acting up now after rebuilding the block when it wasn't doing it before.
Still puzzled but here's a couple of thoughts.
The compressor is still coming on when it shouldn't. I currently have suspension on motorway height with the inhibit button in. This seems to give the best results for now without too much up and down messing around although it does still do it. Even with the inhibit button in and on motorway mode, the compressor is still coming on. Shouldn't do should it????
Suspension box is hot and compressor is like the sun!! Pulled up to work this morning and suspension had set itself to high and I couldn't get it back down. 2 hours later I went back out, fired the car up and managed to drop it down straight away. Could this be a heat issue and giving it a couple of hours cooled it down enough to bring it back to life??
I didn't have these issues before I rebuilt the block and I'm not a massive believer in coincidence. However, it is a Rangerover!
I've got a compressor rebuild kit here. D'ya reckon it's worth bashing that on and seeing what happens?
Just been out and followed what Richard said.
When clicking the "faults" (the one that looks like a box rather than a button) nothing seemed to happen. No window animation to confirm it had been pressed.
I tried reading the faults again and this time it managed to go through the sequence without losing connection. No faults were returned and the boxes above, F8, F9, FA, FB, FC have a 0 in each of them. (not sure what f8, f9, fa, fb and fc are for)
Disconnected and that's that til the morning when igo on the school run and we'll see what happens.
Incidentally, there's a guy in the next village from me, selling a block and compressor for £60. Says he got it in a box of spares and doesn't know if it's working or not. Worth a punt????????
Radius arm bushes and anti roll bar bushes done.
Cured the problem although I can faintly detect a wobble/vibration every now and then I wonder if there's something else that could be the root of the evil, and banjaxed bushes just highlighted it?
I'll come next year if it's on. Or perhaps there'll be an Autumn camp?
ok. I will give that sequence a go.
I don't end up with any fault messages when driving so it is a bit strange. As I say, I didn't have any bother before other than the compressor kicked in a bit too much and there was a little drop to the side sometimes overnight. This is why I rebuilt the block. Now I've got bigger issues than when I flaming started. lol.
I can't see how it can be anything though as everything works fine when you run through the ride heights one by one in the software. Rises and falls pretty quick as it should.
I'll also see if I can find anyone with a pre-war computer that has a comms port.
Got the cable and Got "EAS Unlock Software"
Somethings not working right.
Software communicates with eas. I can turn pumpon and off, change ride heights (which it does immediately)
but............
when I click "Faults" it seems to stumble and then the idle box goes red instead of green that says "good idle". and then communication is lost and it doesn't say FF anymore. Restart the software and it connects and I can do everything again. It's only reading faults that cause problems. I did seem to get it to work once. I clicked "Faults" the data stopped and then carried on with a "Good idle" green box but no faults appeared in the box. I click "Unlock EAS", click "Stop" and unplug cable. I start the car but its still not selecting ride heights properly. If I select access, the rear drops but the front stays up. Takes me a lot of pressing and faffing to manage to get it to go back to normal height. I know that the suspension is working properly as when I was in the software and clicked through the heights manually, it changed immediately as you would expect it too.
I didn't have any of these issues before I rebuilt the block which I know clearly points to an issue with me rebuilding the block. However, as I said, it works as it should doing it through the EAS software.
Does anyone have any suggestions or is there different software I can try?
Cheers mi dears.
My LPG gauge was displaying 2 bars when it was empty. Simon altered the numbers and now it's right.
Nope. No cable. Ordered it now though.
I hope i'm on the money though with my current diagnosis.
Right.
The exhaust pipe for the EAS. The one that I said had previously been bodged and I glued back together.
Took that off and inspected it and air is escaping through the black cap bit. I assume this is causing less resistance. I only have superglue to hand and it's not gap filling, so ive pushed some kitchen roll into the gap and soaked it with glue to harden and fill the gap. This seems to have worked and I can select all heights again. However, the glue is clearly rubbish and also probably can't handle the pressure of exhausting air so the repair keeps blowing out. I reckon this has to be the fault so i'm gonna have to sit tight until the new one I've ordered gets here.
Any probs driving on high ride height if I have to?
So it's been stood 20 minutes. Read something on google about leaving it for a while and then trying again.
Just started it back up, pressed for access and it dumped all the air and went down.
Then I selected normal. It went up and compressor went off. Thought I was sorted.
Then the extended light illuminated and compressor kicked back in and off we went back up.
Still broken!!!!!