As suspected
Might see if i can repair it for the time being. what you reckon? worth a go surely.
yep. Thor. Cheapest new ones i've seen are £45 a throw.
I have no idea of the overall condition of the condenser so i'll inspect the damage at the weekend. if it looks like it's come off the bottom of the sea, i'll replace it. might just be a pinhole tho.
okie dokie. i've watched a few youtube vids of injector cleaning Heath Robinson style. might give that a go first to see where we're at before sending them away. If they're all good bar 1, i'll just replace 1.
Now i understand. So best to sort the injectors then!
Thanks very much.
Sorry. I'm not really sure how it works. Only what i've seen, read or surmised.
If gas doesn't run through the petrol injector, how does a petrol injector affect the gas system?
Went for an aircon gas. Leaking like a good-un from the condenser. top left as you look at the front.
New condenser required by the looks of it.
Still, every cloud and all. Didn't cost me anything to find out. Nothing like free bad news!
***Edit. Googling tells me that the top is a common point of failure for the condenser and that you can potentially salvage it with a bit of that metal weld paste stuff. I'm not sure what it's called. If i take the grill and front panel off, hopefully i should be able to see where it was leaking from. I'll have a look at weekend.
Orangebean wrote:
After all, your car is going to primarily run on LPG so the less you have to spend on the petrol side, the better!
With that last statement, i think you've just made perfect sense!
Why am i bothering to chase one potentially dodgy petrol injector when i believe that the car consistantly underperforms on both petrol and gas??? (i've winged about this on my other posts) The petrol injector has nothing to do with the gas does it?? Would it not be more likely that something that both systems have in common is to blame? i.e HT leads, coils or spark plugs???
Sure, i'd like to fix the petrol injector, but it's not particularly noticeable and as you can probably tell, i know next to nowt about cars. So if it hadn't been pointed out to me i wouldn't have known.
Is it worth the hassle and cost messing about with the injectors that won't get used??
Orangebean wrote:
That's the one. It's only a bit of stamped tin though. I've reused the same one quite a few times with a quick spray of blue Hylomar for luck.
BTW The MrInjector that I linked to above did a good job a while back cleaning and testing a set of TR6 injectors for me.
Thanks for all of that. Are the injectors a quick turn around?
This is the right gasket isn't it?
http://www.paddockspares.com/err6621-gasket-inl-manifold.html?gclid=CNDUxOytvtQCFdeRGwodckELVA
The one that's in.2 parts is for the gems engine?
*Thumbs Up!
Local fella will pressure test and re-gas for 20 quid. Is that the best and cheapest way to begin?
Thanks. I don't suspect anything wrong with the valley gasket. Just thought while it's all out, would make sense to go the extra mile and do it. If you reckon leave it, then I will.
I don't like the look of the price of new bosch injectors. Can I send mine away to be tested? By all accounts, there should be 1 iffy one.
When light is on a/c is off.
Temp is set to low. When I start car, ac light flashes on and off for a bit. I assume it's to tell me that the car can't achieve the temperature I've set without me switching the a/c on. If I switch the a/c on (light off) it doesn't get any colder although the engine works slightly harder and everything appears to be running as it should. Except for the lack of stone cold air.
I'm going to have my little misfire sorted. When Simon did the LPG he reckoned there could be a dodgy injector.
i thought i'd have New coil packs, New HT leads (8mm), New spark plugs.
And it seems a bit of a waste to go in for just injectors so what's your thoughts for replacing parts while its all in bits???
I'd appreciate a shopping list of gaskets and such that would be worth doing. I figure to just have everything done at once whether it needs it or not rather than having to strip it back down at a later date costing twice the cash.
Rockers, upper inlet manifold, valley gasket etc.
thanks very much
ah, i see. so clutch working and a/c light flashing indicates that it's working and doesn't need gassing. worse case scenario new blend motors then. Plugging in would be nice. think someone on here lives about an hour away from me but i can't remember who.
I see. Car blows hot and cold when asked tho. Is this related to that? Can have different temperatures at both sides. Aircon don't work tho. I think it just wants gassing. Clutch kicks in and motor works.
Aragorn wrote:
Perhaps a faulty temperature sensor or similar?
Interesting you mention a faulty temperature sensor.
At the moment, i get a book code. No fault code listed on my little diagnostic thingy bob so i assume it's a hevac code that needs to be read by nanocom or such like. The book symbol comes on at exactly the same time the temperature needle gets to half way (normal temperature). If i switch off and back on again, the book goes and doesn't come back. Unless.....i leave the car standing for a few hours and it cools down then the book comes on again when the temperature gets back to half way. As i say, i don'thave the proper diagnostic to tell me whats up but through googling, i'm lead to believe that theres a water temperature sensor (part number STC3256) on a pipe under the dashboard, just to the left of where your left leg would be while driving. Could this be a likely source?
This might be a silly question, but we've had a few hot days this last month. When the weather's hot, the car seems to drive much better. Smoother, quieter. Is it me, or is there something related?