Before i started messing about with any of the electrics and lpg tuning, i swapped the MAF and IAC valve from the other car. Symptoms still persist itermittently.

For the sake of thoroughness, i will take it off and inspect/clean it.

I reckon there's an inbalance somewhere. Can feel the vibration. A little like a helicopter. Dunno how to describe it properly. I still think it's down on power. Slower acceleration.

Having seen Simon last week, i think i've still got a couple of problems at idle. However, i do think it's relating to both petrol and lpg so i'm thinking vacuum leak????

This morning, started up and idled at 1100 or so. Drove up the petrol station on petrol and still idled at 1100. I swapped it over to gas and it didn't change (hence me thinking vacuum leak). Fueled up and set off and everythings normal now. This has happened a couple of times since i've had it. Intermittent. One time, the car idled at 1100 and slowly climbed up to 1300 before it settled down. Simon mentioned in his finding that he thought there might be a problem with injector 6. Could this relate to that or do i have a couple of issues?

I've got some carb cleaner. do i have a bit of a spray around the plenum and manifolds and see what happens??

dunno. you'd expect more in the front since that's where the weight is.

I went on the motorway today down to Pontefract on a 160 mile round trip and the journey was good with 32f and 38r. Car still handled good on motorway suspension setting.

i'll get hold of an injector when i do the rocker gaskets. No point swapping a potentially dodgy one around, confirming it's dodgy and then having to strip it back down again to change it.

Thanks for today Simon. Hopefully it'll behave itself now.

I just remembered the video i watched was a US video so things were opposite way around with regarding numbers i think.

Do you reckon it's likely that injector 6 needs replacing? Could it be the injector seals?

Is there a way to test without stripping down, swapping out and then rebuilding?

i have a set of blend motors that you can have. I'll be honest and say i dunno if they work or not. They came with a load of spares when i got my first p38 and i can't remember what the bloke said. I'm inclined to say they'd work as why would anyone keep ones that don't.

32 front 38 back feels good. Nice ride and light steering. Not too light obviously but you know what i mean.

Good call!

ok. thanks. i might give that a go and see how it feels. Just had to cut the anti theft valve caps off. How ironic!

I know the book says 28front and 38rear. I've got slightly bigger tyres and wondered if that still applies. I'm running 255/60/r18 instead of the usual 255/55/r18.

28 front always looks a bit soft, and 38 on the back is a bit hard.

What d'ya reckon?

My Bad!

Just re-read the post and you can hear that air is coming from valve block. Sorry. I've just got up. LOL

One thing i can add though is, as tempted as i was to get out the Lidl O rings, i ordered ones from landrover and there's a difference. Only a small one but the genuine ones are ever so slightly bigger.

hi.

Have you checked the air dryer? I had a leak from my valve block that i could hear. I changed the o-rings and collet and thought i was done. Car was still lop sided after being stood for an hour or so. I checked everything again and found that my air dryer was billowing out but i couldn't hear it. sorted it and car is champion now.

Gilbertd wrote:

O2 sensor reading 0V because a cylinder was misfiring (as you said it was running rough) and the fuel trims weren't moving because they couldn't move any further.

Glad we got to a conclusion, I've got a ferry to Calais to catch in 3 hours.......

Safe journey. :-)

Great stuff. Hopefully we got there in the end. lol, started off with a bottle of injector cleaner, changed the maf, changed iac valve, changed an o2 sensor, stripped out both petrol and lpg ecu's and all it needs is the lpg calibrating. doh!

How does this explain the o2 sensor reading 0.0 all the time and the fuel trim not moving?

funnily enough i was talking about the car having adaptive values to my Mrs and saying that i wonder if it could be that because i've ran it on petrol today. Then i thought, surely it would take more than a few miles journey to reset itself.

So if i understand correctly.....

The fuel trims learn the petrol side. If then it switches over to gas, it then has to relearn for the gas. then it switches back to petrol and so on and so forth. each time trying to relearn whats going on.

Calibrating the lpg to closely resemble the petrol fuel trims stops this relearning process?

I'll get it booked in for investigation. At least now i know that the sensors are working.

Should i leave it on petrol for now so it doesn't start doing funky stuff again?

Right. The saga continues....

Carrying on from the last post i wrote above. Where i briefly got a reading from the bank 2 sensors.

I've been working all day and the car's been parked up outside since my last journey this morning. Still with the lpg ecu plugged back in but i've not pressed the button on the dash to turn the lap on. We're running on petrol today. Got in the car at 5pm, stuck realtime diagnostics on and drove 3 miles to pick the Mrs up. Both of the O2 sensors and both of the fuel trims were working spot on and the car drove absolutely immaculate. Not 1 stutter and the idle was that good, it was if the car wasn't even turned on. Picked the Mrs up, drove 5 mile home, again, smashing. I got home and had to go to Aldi so i thought i'd take the opportunity to record some video of the live diagnostics. Drove up to aldi, still on petrol, and still driving like it's just left the factory. How weird is this???

Decided on the way back that i needed to see what would happen when i press the lpg button. So i pulled over and pressed it. Switched over to LPG and everything still the same. Fantastic idle, all sensors working. I made another video of driving home on lpg. Fuel trims were a bit different. Higher % most of the time but i figure that's how it is on lpg? Have to balance the 2 systems together??

I can post video's up if required.

I can't think of anything i've done to fix it. Took the petrol ecu out last night looking for wires and took the lpg ecu out too. The ONLY thing that i can say is that when i put the 15a fuse back into the lpg 12v, i couldn't get it in the little holder. it looks like it's moving around in it's mini plastic housing and i couldn't get the 2 pins in. Got it in there in the end but that would literally be my only observation.

I'm a bit confussled!

So last night I left the inline fuse out of the lpg. This morning it drove beautifully on petrol only with just a couple of little judders. Idle was lovely too.

Read diagnostics after 15mile journey and only one is P1319. However, the only live data it will read is O2 bank 1 sensor. No fuel trims, rpm, engine load, nowt!

I stuck the lpg inline fuse back in and fired her up. Still running good (but without turning the lpg on) but now all diagnostics will read. Took if for a spin and ended up briefly getting 0.8v out of bank 2 O2 sensor (first time ever) and the bank 2 fuel trim shot up to 25%.

Does all that sound like the lpg system is conspiring against me?

My apologies regarding fuel trims. I hadn't posted them as I didn't think they were necessary as it just showed me that bank 2 sensors wernt working.

STFT fluctuates between around -2% up to +2%
Bank 1 FT fluctuates about the same
Bank 2 shows nothing

Bank 1 O2 voltage ranges from 0.1-0.8
Banks 2 O2 doesn't move from 0.0

Martyuk wrote:

Change the O2 sensors. Get genuine Bosch ones too, as aftermarket ones never work properly.

Whilst in theory they should run without the heaters, I've found that if the heaters don't work then the sensors only seem to get fully up to temp under decent engine load. At idle they don't keep the sensors hot enough to run properly.

The adaptive values will re trim themselves, if the system is working properly, but doing it with diagnostics is instantaneous.

i changed the 02. i took it off my other car which i know works. i've been on long runs taking kids to school and mrs to work. engine would be well and truly up to temperature.

Gilbertd wrote:

But can Torque reset the adaptive values? That would reset the trims to base settings. A normal code reader can't, the only thing I know that can is a dedicated diagnostic tool such as a Nanocom, Lynx, Tesbook, etc.

No torque can't do that. Am i at the point where i go get it plugged in or might you have any further things i could troubleshoot? As i said, i haven't multi-metered the O2 feed. Is that a case of ignition on and seeing if there's 12v? Will i be able to check continuity from the sensor wiring to the ecm? I can run a long wire out from under the car to the engine bay so i can see what i'm doing. There are 4 wires on the sensors. i now know that blue and red/black are from the sensor, but what about the other 2 wires? If you could tell me where to look, i'll check the continuity and voltage tomorrow.

One more thing. I've tried to read up a bit. Does 0 voltage on an 02 sensor mean the engine is running lean (i.e too much oxygen) thus it tries to add more fuel to compensate? Is there a possibility of an air leak on bank 2 that's keeping the sensor constantly at 0 or should it move regardless?

I appreciate all the help i've be given so far. Thankyou!

Gilbertd wrote:

But can Torque reset the adaptive values? That would reset the trims to base settings. A normal code reader can't, the only thing I know that can is a dedicated diagnostic tool such as a Nanocom, Lynx, Tesbook, etc.

No torque can't do that. Am i at the point where i go get it plugged in or might you have any further things i could troubleshoot? As i said, i haven't multi-metered the O2 feed. Is that a case of ignition on and seeing if there's 12v?