i haven't looked at the rears to be honest. fronts have some sort of shield around them. Perhaps better protected. I'll have a go at a rear next time i'm under there. :-)

New bolt ordered. Thanks to Orangebean for supplying the part number. Now obsolete and no longer sold by Landrover according to them. Managed to get one from John Craddock.

Also sniped a set of Terrafirma shocks on fleabay, so the whole suspension will have been done by the time i'm finished.

Gilbertd wrote:

Assuming you can get them off without resorting to an angle grinder.......

i noticed you'd said about having trouble with them in one of my previous posts. I just undid the two bolts, popped out the arm from the rubber and swapped them. No bother at all. Literally the easiest job I've done on the car.

local jetwash. 6 mins for 2 quid The only downside is if you're not the first customer of the day, you get wet knees. :-)

swap height sensors from side to side. should make it good as new as it goes the other way then. Mirror image. I did mine couple of weekends ago on front.

no10chris wrote:

Maybe I’m a sceptic, but if I buy a car and the engines spotless, I wonder why it’s been cleaned, what’s it hiding,, or maybe I’m the odd one out who doesn’t spend hours cleaning an engine no one will see.
I’d rather sell my car knowing it’s 100% mechanically right, if they wanna spit and polish there welcome,, 😁

I agree that a shiney engine could draw suspicion, but if the rest of the car matches up then i'd see it as a good point. If the engine is spotless but the inside is full of dog hair and fag ends, probably best to walk away.
Think of it as a sort of diagnostic tool. If Rutland Rover had a clean engine, he'd probably have found his leak by now.

smahing.

Are there O-rings on the metal coolant rails?

Thought a bit about my plumbing.

The way it's done now, there's quite a few joints and jubilee clips and when i backflushed, i noticed that the pipe work was rather tired looking from being compressed and it took a few minutes to get everything nipped up to stop little weeps. I may aswell redo the whole lot cause when i take the Tee off the flow, i'd only have to put a straight connector in any road. Are there 0-rings on the metal pipes? if so, d'ya know what size and i'll get some?

Will there be any drawbacks from having the whole coolant path go through the reducer? does that not make it the achilles heal? Or am i worrying about nothing?

I was inspired to clean after seeing Robbo1's engine bay. Mines filthy compared to his. lol.

I personally have one of these. Well the wife did. And now i do. lol. Anyway, there's many a brand to be had. They're all much of a muchness and range from about £16 upwards.

I'd say the obvious applies. Don't point it at the alternator, Battery, Fuse Box or your face. The rest of it will be fine. It's all pipes, harness and solid metal. I've been to the big under car steaming man before too when i had an oil leak. Stuck it on a four post lift, sprayed it with paraffin and then hot washed it off. Zero ill effects at all. If you can go wading in it, i see no harm in a bit of carefully applied steam.

I also hot shampoo and jet wash the underneath of my engine, diffs and gearbox once a month. About a distance of 1m from nozzle. Underneath car looks like it's just left the factory.

I've only done the engine bay once. Not had to do it again. It's still spotless.

Now if there's a leak, i'll instantly see where it's coming from as i know nothing else is leaking. Oh, except my rear engine seal. But at least i can see where it's coming from and it's not that bad to do anything about. (Yet)

Give it a blast with some degreaser first if you can then hit it with the steam.

A good work light to shine on/in suspicious areas is helpful as you'll be able to see any leaks glisten in the light and also If you have any of that blue kitchen roll, wrap a piece around any of your suspect pipes and run it at idle. You'll soon find your leak.

Hats off for no lpg. Petrol must be cheap round your way. Lol

If you've got a steam cleaner, clean everything off. If you've not got one, go get one. For £20 you'll wonder how you ever survived without one. You can eat you're dinner off my shiny engine bay but more to the point, you can immediately see where there's a leak/cracked hose. Get all them pipes and stains sorted and you'll be able to see what you're doing.

Has your coolant level dropped?

Do you have any coolant hoses running along the bulkhead to an LPG reducer?

I still need to fix my right hand heated screen. Tis on the list.

As for backflushing, the stuff i got out was more black with bits of rust and other assorted foreign bodies in it. I did mine with hot water and kept kinking the hose and letting go to give it a pulsing motion. Seemed to do the trick. Easy cheap fix.

Righto.

Dont think ive got issues now but for the sake of a couple of hours and a couple of connectors, it'll tidy it up and prevent against any future problems.

no10chris wrote:

Just scanning this post and saw your lpg tee off, I’m surprised that doesn’t air lock as it’s so high, if you cut back the aluminium pipe ( flow ) at the bulk head you can elbow it across the back of engine, I bought the elbows 19mm/16mm on eBay and ran mine through the reducer before the heater, can’t say I’ve noticed any difference in cabin temperature and cured my air lock problems I used to have, I also stuck a 16mm bleed valve in to make it even easier to bleed..

So if i understand correctly:

Put the reducer in-line? Flow goes to the reducer, the output of reducer links back into the flow and carries on to the heater core? Get rid of the bothe the flow and return Tees altogether?

Stuck.

Been fighting big time with a bolt. The head was pretty knackered to start with and i cant get any movement. Had heat and penetrating oil on it. Wont shift. gonna have to chop it.

Its the trailing arm to axle bolt. The one at the rear closest to the panhard rod. Not the one behind the shock absorber, i can move that one. Cant seem to find the bolt spec on google.

EKA probably would have worked, but i've read that many instances of stuff going wrong and it taking forever thst i wanted to use that as a last resort. I was confident that the old key eould work so i thought that was my best first option. Any thoughts on what may have gone wrong with the new key?

Did the rear panhard rod tonight. Got some bosch fast cut metal blades for the jigsaw. Got the old bushes out in 5 mins. Gonna attempt the trailing arms tomorrow.

Just my two cents for if it is the pinion seal.

you might wanna replace the drive flange too. May be worn allowing oil past. Worth the £25. Also, as its a bit of a chew job, dont buy a cheap seal. Get a genuine one.

Nah didnt touch em. Locked it, put keys on side, went back out 90 mins later and dead. Havent had low battery message or anything and buttons flash when pressed.