Stay with Boge if you want comfort I would say.
I went the Gen3/Terrafirma TF144/145 route. The ride is OK but quite a bit harsher than the factory Boge and Dunlops at std ride height.
The Terrafirma combo is much better off road however, also at motorway height and also when towing would you believe.
I have a heavy caravan with a high nose weight (like 100kgs+) and it is tightly controlled with no wallowing or bouncing around. It is very stable.
Also solo when I have a lot of weight in the car such as cement mixer and bricks! and 4 people.
A big welcome from me as well Collin. I have got a Faultmate system for the p38.
It would be a huge asset to this forum if you stopped by from time to time.
I put an extra joint in the long brake pipe that goes to the LH rear, just inside the RH wheel arch where it goes over the tank. It makes it easier to fit.
When raising up, system is designed to lift in stages. First the back lifts up approx 70%, then the front lifts up to match it, then the back final 100% followed again by the front. The reason as mentioned is to prevent headlight dazzling.
As the solenoid valves switch in and out it may appear to be a bit jerky and not very smooth.
I have a Samsung S5 Galaxy which I use for satnav ...... attached by a sucker holder on the windscreen. Nice big clear high res screen and voice commands. I can't speak too highly of it. I also use it for Amazon prime music ........ but not for music in the car at the moment until I sort my head unit out.
I run google maps for normal road driving and the UK ordinance survey maps for any exploring, either on foot or driving. I previously used TomTom then more recently Miomaps. but Google is better. More informative and up todate.
Ordinance survey maps use the memory map program to run them on a pc, but if anybody has the maps and wants to run them on their Android there is another prog to run them (wink wink, can't do smileys). pm me.
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I have been drooling over head units for a few days now and I have narrowed my choice a bit. There is this one from Gilbertd:-
and a newer one:-
There is a bewildering number of Kenwood head units. I have been on the Kenwood site and compared specs of the two above.
Comments before I hand over the dosh?
The Kenwood does look a nice job Gilbertd. It is £142 on Amazon, so a bit cheaper than the Pure DAB add-on receiver:
I am also looking at this one:
What is DAB+ ? Is it all going to change soon?
I have an Alpine head unit and an Alpine CD player/Harmon Kardon amp in the boot. After driving my wife's new Fiesta, I thought it about time to upgrade to DAB. It is so much better. However, I want to keep the CD player. I have invested a lot in their Alpine AiNet system. I also want to add blue tooth and hands free.
The best solution I have seen so far is: http://www.pure.com/car-audio/products/highway-600
Grom, as I understand it looses the CD player connection. It is either or.
I have got an aftermarket Alpine head unit and I fitted a p38 Harmon Kardon bass unit and an Alpine CD changer in the boot. Must be 10 years ago since I fitted it. It uses the Alpine AiNet connectors, so everything speaks to each other. I thought it is about time I updated to DAB and bluetooth but it is not so easy since AiNet has been quietly dropped by Alpine. It means I will loose the CD player if I change the head unit.
I have bought many, many things on Ebay and not just for the car - my feedback score is 1274 at the moment.
The only problems I have had have been with secondhand car parts generally. The condition has been wrongly described.
I would always work through Ebay. Make sure your e-mails are carefully worded and attach photos. Make sure you have got a water tight case.
Most sellers are scared of getting negative feedback, so the ball is in your court.
If the manifold bolt was damaged but sticking out so it could be unscrewed that would be one thing, but the one in the photos will need machining.
If a bolt extractor was used and it snapped off in the stud, you would be in the Sh#t. Happened to me on a classic gearbox once.
I wanted agreed value insurance for my car. I am with Adrian Flux, because they don't mind mods.
I said I wanted £5K and they asked for a full list of what I had spent on it plus 7 or 8 photographs. They came back and said £2.5K cheeky buggers.
I said I would get more than that anyway as just the average market value, so we reached a stalemate. They then said I would need it to be professionally valued to take it further. More cost so I said bollocks and cancelled the agreed value monthly add on payment.
Got the new receiver from Island 4x4. Ordered late Friday and delivered Tues morning. It took literally 2 mins to fit.
Aerial wire is back on and both fobs are working. The fobs even work from inside the house now. They have not done that for ages.
I wonder if that is what I have done. Locked it on the fob and then come back and used the key to open it after the fob did not work. Can't remember.
Anyway my troubles are now over, or are they? Keep watching this space.
Now ordered ............... £259.20...........arghhh
My diesel has also got stretch bolts in the head. I am not a big fan of them. I was thinking of fitting ordinary high tensile steel bolts instead and using a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gasket. I have got a new block to build up at some time.
I always lock the car door on the fob after filling up and going in to pay. I then open it on the fob, but this time it was immobilised when I came to start it.
I was also sure I turned off the immobiliser in the BECM, as well as the alarm and everything else I could think of. It is not needed - when was the last time a p38 got stolen?
However I changed the BECM a while back, so maybe I need to recheck.
I have removed the blue aerial lead and now the fob needs to be literally 12" away from it. The problem is that when it is immobilised and the key is in the ignition, it says press remote, but the distance from the key switch to the receiver seems to be a bit too far, even inside the car. I have tried leaving one key in the ignition and using the second fob right next to the receiver. Also I suspect there is a lot of electrical noise on a garage forecourt. Either way I am fed up with the hassle. It usually happens on a busy garage forecourt with a queue behind or else in the dark when I am all dickied up and going out for the night.
I think the one on Ebay for £225 is a ridiculous price. It actually costs more than the new part, as there is no VAT chargeable. Another downside is no warranty. There is also another now for £190. Chris: I rang the guy from East Coast Rangies. He does not have one in stock but he also charges £200 + for a s/h one.
I know what is going to happen, the minute I buy it Marty will say "sorted it, its an easy fix".
Let down again tonight. Filled the car with diesel in a busy garage and would not start - "engine immobilised", then "press key fob".
WTF, I need to bite the bullet and buy the Mk3 RF receiver. Cheapest I can find is Island 4x4 at £216 +VAT.
Anybody got a cheaper source?
A wheel refurbisher will be able to repair that. I have not long had an alloy wheel repaired (not a p38) and it was worse.
My alloy wheel had to be welded and ground off.
I have now got a spare engine to practice on. I have removed the rocker cover, put the timing pin in the flywheel and fitted the camshaft locking tool.
I then removed the pins from the upper chain guide but don't know how the lever tool presses against the chain tensioner. However I have now taken the bolt out of the end of the camshaft and removed the sprocket. The upper timing chain is slack and all the pins are out, but the chain guide won't come out. It seems to be held at the bottom.
Rave is not very clear and I also have a Sealey tool guide for the special M51 tools. Have I missed something?
Just a few comments on pressure testing :
Firstly, I must admit I have never pressure tested an engine block but I have pressure tested lots of industrial pressure vessels and steam boilers.
Pressure testing is always done with a fluid (usually water) as it is non compressible. If there a leak, the pressure is lost immediately and can be seen right away.
Using compressed air, the pressure will not drop much through a tiny crack. It does not reveal anything unless it is a big leak.
After completely filling the vessel, we used to use a hydraulic hand pump to pump water in and get the pressure up. If you don't have one, I would have thought mains water pressure would be probably enough, it is usually 50 psi+ . Just put mains water pressure on the jacket, get all the air out, then valve it off and see if it drops, normally over a period of 2 hours.
Edit: Just read your other post and I see your engine is all back together so a bit late with this.