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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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His anyone got a source for the microswitches? I have a spare latch I could mess about with.
I think Marty said the replacement he found was not quite the same physically.

Job done. Switched on immobiliser in the BECM with my Faultmate and it synced. Got two working fobs again.
Thanks guys.

Tried several times. It doesn't want to know.
Will have to change the settings back in the BECM I guess. Unless there is a problem with the key repair.

Aha. Thanks Mr Bean. I remember I did turn off passive immobilisation in the BECM.
Door sync method? Open door lock with the key whilst pressing open button, then close on key whilst pressing close button?

Sent on the 1st, I got it back today, 5 Sept. It was over the weekend so good turnaround. Postage to them cost £6.45 recorded and insured, so £56.44 all in.
Good case and battery cover and LEDs now work. He even glued the old sticker back on the key.
Problem now is it won't sync. It has always been a bit hit or miss syncing the keys. Seems to have a mind of its own. I have a 2000 MY with the coil behind the ignition key, so it should be automatic. In the past (when both keys worked) I did it by opening the door with the synced fob and I then started the car with the other non synced key and drove round for a bit. It used to sync when it felt like it. Any way to force a sync?

Thanks Orangebean. I had a look at their website.

https://www.fobfix.com/collections/repair-services/products/range-rover-p38-button-remote-key-fob-repair-fix-service?variant=8538459909

They are not the cheapest. With a new case and gubbins, it is £50, but they look professional. I will give them a try.

I am recently down to one working keyfob so tempting fate. I have had a look at it as best I can, but the fault seems to be the microswitches on the circuit board.
I read a few comments about a guy on Ebay that does repairs. I have had a look and there are several advertising. Can anyone recommend one they have used?

It seems to be random. However, having said that, it seems to occur more when I unhook the caravan and use the caravan's built-in motor mover (433 MHz). I come to restart the car and it says immobilised. I usually leave the engine running now when positioning the caravan. It does occur at other times but it usually restarts right away after pressing the fob.

Thinking the new receiver meant the end of all my problems, I programmed the replacement BECM with everything turned on. Maybe I should switch off some of the security features? I know the BECM starts to loose its memory with age (like the rest of us) so maybe it is loosing sync with engine ECU possibly?

I have got the new Mk III receiver, two working fobs and I still occasionally get "engine immobilised" then "press key fob".
This occurs when using either key. Receiver was brand new last year after suffering battery drain parked outside my house.
BECM was also cloned last year and a newer one fitted. What gives? 2000 MY diesel.

1999 onwards diesel autos did away with the dipstick and just have a plug instead.
The gearbox should not overheat in normal conditions. It is only when towing in 40 deg C + temps.
First thing I would check is the fluid. Run some off see if it is nice and red. Then top it up as per Rave.
If it is OK, it must be electrical. There is a temp sender on the side of the gearbox cooler. You will need to take the front bumper off.

They are easy to pick up cheaply on Ebay. Just wait until a good set comes up, that's what I did.
Check the photos carefully before you buy.

I need some advice on paint spraying, not the whole car just a few touch ups here and there. I have an air compressor and a couple of new unused paint spraying guns to use.
The last time I sprayed a car was 40 years ago and I remember just using cellulose paint. Things have moved on with different types of paint and I need to know what type is easiest and most forgiving for home use? My car is Blenheim silver, a metallic finish.
I have a few small dents to knock out and I will also try my hand at panel beating. Hopefully once the weather turns for the better.
I will start with the slam panel under the bonnet which is not too visible.

This is on my "to do" list for this year.
Along with knocking dents out, fixing sagging headlining, aircon, noisy timing chain, fitting new transfer box and refitting winch back on the front.
I like the look of those Orangebean. I looked on Amazon a while ago and there was a bewildering number of different types.
Let us know your conclusions when you get them sorted.

I know that Ashcrofts strongly recommend it. It is the main reason for gearbox failure after a rebuild.
I would have thought petrol via a rubber tube and funnel first to flush any metal bits out.

Phew, as suggested I have just set up a virtual XP machine using the vmware free edition:

http://www.vmware.com/products/player/playerpro-evaluation.html

It has gobbled up 40 GB of memory for the XP virtual drive!
I have loaded Microcat and it is now running by jove!
I am on microcat 2002.9.0.0, seems to be very ancient. Is it worth getting a later version? If so where from?

I would also suspect the viscous coupling if it has been run with different sized wheels on the axles.
You could try fitting the coupling out of your '95. Relatively easy job to do. When they fail they normally seize solid though.
Also if you have plans to fit the HP24 out of your '95, it will be the longer gearbox.

Thanks

Orangebean: Must be careful what I write but I know about the .dll file.

Gilbertd: just tried it on a 32 bit W10 machine and it won't install.

Looks like I will be hanging on to XP for a while longer.

I had a HP24 box fitted to my diesel in 2012 by Ashcrofts.
It is only the early HP24 boxes that are longer - by about 15mm. The later boxes are the same length overall.
On the plate on the box the later ones should say something like 030-065. It is the 065 box you need.
Fit the diesel bellhousing, diesel torque converter and the diesel gearbox ECU.
An alternative is to fit the diesel HP22 gearbox "tailend" to an early HP24 box to make it the same length.
I haven't done it so don't know the details. Or possibly drill new holes in the gearbox cross member?

I have been running Microcat for a long time on my ancient Panasonic Toughbook which I now use just for diagnostics. It runs XP.
However I just dug the disc out to install it on my new Windows 10 (64 bit) machine and it will not install even after trying compatibility mode.
Anyone running it under Windows 10? If so is there a different version?

The early HP24 box is longer but the later box is actually the same length as the HP22.
It is a direct swap. A cheap upgrade for the 4.0 and the diesel.