Hi Kapila,

It is not the turbo, it is a bit tired and leaks oil into the inlet tract but otherwise it is OK.
I still haven't done the job. I just turn the radio up a bit.
It quietens down when the engine is hot but sounds like a lawnmower when cold.
I suspect it is the upper chain guide. The chain does not appear stretched and the car starts and runs OK hot or cold, so I think chains and tensioners are OK.
The M51 is a very good engine but maybe a few design faults: the head has to come off to do the timing chain and the chain should have been duplex.

Hello Kapila.

Another familiar name !
Car going well? You must have rebuilt it by now.

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of experienced guys on here to help with problems.
Other members would be interested in your link for Arnott Gen III's which were being sold at a discounted price.

Dave

They do converter cables for 7 to 13 pin, so you can leave the 7 pin sockets as is.

A safety point, use the special yellow goggles when using a UV light.

I once tried to cut through the nut to get a pipe off my diesel gearbox cooler. The idea was to cut a slot along the length of the nut then open it up with a screwdriver. It took ages and didn't work. Maybe I am too clumsy. In the end I bought a new cooler and new pipes.

To prevent the new one seizing up again, I used lots of copaslip on the threads and wrapped denso tape round the joints. Because it is two dissimilar metals, aluminium and steel, it results in electrolytic corrosion in the presence of water. Keep the water out and it shouldn't corrode is the theory.

Load of perverts on here. Ha Ha

I misread this post, I thought it said Eric Idle.

I have installed a pull cord to operate the tailgate solenoid just in case I have a flat battery and can't open the tailgate. I can reach the cord from inside the car if I put the back seat down. It comes out via a brass eyelet through the carpet. Normally the knot in the end of the cord is pushed back in the hole so lies flush.

They did indeed reduce the UK warranty to just 2 years. On the other forum Arnotts have a vendor section and I asked the question why the reduction. They said it was based on claims history, so I think we must come to the conclusion that we drive our cars harder in the UK. Anyway, they have recently put it back up to a "limited lifetime" warranty, whatever that means.
Another solution that came up on RR.net was to fabricate and weld new spring mounts for the axles and stay with Dunlops, a far cheaper solution. Insurance companies in the UK wouldn't like it though.

I also have a set of Gen III's fitted. If you want comfort and ride quality I would say stick with Dunlop.
The real (or only) advantage with Gen III's is the extra 2" of lift for off road use. You can tweek the heights even more so that it will raise up a full 4" over std height.
It really makes a difference if you do a bit of off roading. Nothing catches underneath anymore.
The piston design makes it softer off road, a bit firmer at std height, and quite a bit firmer a motorway height.
It drains the tank lifting the car up 4", so you will need a good air compressor.
The extra height can't be obtained without the right shocks and the rear height sensor arms need to be lengthened and a flexible joint inserted.
I ran the car with front Boges all round but it was a bit bouncy off road. I have now gone with Terrafirma +2" shocks.
If you want my opinion, the Gen IIIs are well made but have a design weakness. The rubber bladder is secured with a clamp ring that can leak.
If you buy new they come with a lifetime warranty so it is very important to keep the receipt in a safe place.

I have also used one of those big syringes. It works OK. Before that just a length of garden hose and a funnel stuck in the end. My other half kept it topped up.
Some people have also used a small garden sprayer without the nozzle.

Sloth: are you talking about replacing all the diesel injectors for £1k? There is nothing much to them apart from no.4, just a simple pintle valve. You are being ripped off I think.

My 2000 diesel pulled about 12 or 13 milliamps when asleep, which I understand is typical for later cars.

Spiggy: are you a factor of 10 out on your meter readings after 2 mins? 0.12 amps is 120 milliamps. Also pulling 2 to 3 amps for the first 20 secs would presumably be the interior lights? I have never measured it. Maybe I should think about converting to LED interior lights.

It would be great if we could get "Flo" to join this site. I remember him from RR.net. He is very knowledgeable and his English is good.
Very helpful guy. Only thing is he has his own forum (in French).
Maybe send an invite ?

I have a copy of Microcat and a crack. Any suggestions on how to share it?

I used to live in South Africa and before that Zambia.

I fitted a stainless allen screw in mine as well.

Lots of promise so far.

I agree, a for sale section would be a welcome addition. With a nominal charge that would help pay for the website hosting.

Pictures have to be to links off site, right? Better to have them on hosted on site as the site grows, or maybe just important stickies to start with.

Minor point: When quoting someone it just comes up as larger type. The quote in a bubble would be better.

Sloth Wrote:

Sounds like an interesting idea - though don't the couplings need to be vertically orientated to work properly?

Don't know much about them. I think it is fluid inside that gels at a certain temp.

Any suggestions on what I might use to clean off the radiator?

Probably Gunk spray. Don't use a pressure washer, you can damage the fins.