Hi Chris, I'm Dave and I'm a bloke.
Welcome to the forum. Some very knowledgeable people on here and the good thing is nobody takes the piss, unlike some other forums.
I have got a 2000 DSE, which I have had for nearly 20 years now. Had a Mk 1 Disco and a Classic previously.
I usually tackle a few jobs each year as well as normal maintenance. I have done the headlining and all the front bushes /wheel bearings over the past year or two. I live in Cheshire near Chester.
I have used silicone grease on the o-rings. Just a slight amount on your fingers.
Silicone grease is better on rubber and nitrile and not affected by moisture.
One way of getting bushes out is to thread a junior hacksaw blade through the hole, fit the blade back to the handle and cut slots in the bush.
I have done it a few times, but only on smaller bushes.
I ordered a strip from Marty and downloaded his instructions. It worked like a charm.
Apologies nigel. It probably expired on Dec 10.
The only reason I can see for changing/upgrading the compressor is if you have fitted Arnott Gen III's.
The extra 2" of lift that Gen III's give takes a lot of air. It quickly robs the tank when you put it on high. Not a problem if you are up to pressure and you go off road. One lift is fine. The problem arises when you go back on tarmac then go off road again. If the tank pressure has not built back up in time, it can't get back up.
FYI when I have bench tested rebuilt compressors with new seals, it took 6 mins or there abouts to get the accumulator from zero up to pressure. This was on the bench, not the car.
I personally like Marty's idea to fit two original type compressors. Like an installed spare with the ability to switch either one or both together.
As well as that, all travel to France is now stopped due to Macron's Omicron restrictions.
I notice it doesn't apply to HGV drivers though and it is not clear if you can drive straight through France to another country, like Spain for example.
There is a further 10% off with the following code:
dec10-hankook
I passed my car test well before 1997, so the rules didn't apply to me anyway. I had a HGV licence and I lost it when I turned 70.
To get it back I needed to pay for a medical by the doctor. I didn't bother, as I can't see myself driving HGV's again. I passed my HGV test in the TA, many, many, years ago. Largest vehicle I've driven is an Antar tank transporter. Also Leyland gun tractor and loads of AEC's and Bedfords.
Great fun and you get paid for it.
Caravans are easy to back up but I do have difficulty backing up a small 750Kg unbraked trailer though, particularly when in the p38.
It goes out of sight sometimes when backing up and turning at the same time. Easy to jackknife and break a back light.
JLimmelman wrote:
Has anyone come across a 3D CAD model of the valveblock? Or even a dimensioned 2D drawing?
I have never seen a 3D CAD model or even an engineering drawing of the valve block.
The outside is a fairly simple shape, just rectangular blocks, so it should be possible to draw an approximation, to aid fitting it into a case for example.
However, the inside of the valve block is quite complex, with all the ports and internal passageways. To come up with a model showing all that detail it would have to come from official sources I think.
3D scanners are getting better all the time, so that maybe the route to get a scan of the outside of the block.
The 10% off voucher is "dec10-hankook" at the checkout.
I am on the Battery Megastore's mailing list having bought a battery from them earlier on this year.
For guys in the UK, they are now back in stock and there is a 10% off voucher, making the MF31-1000 now down to about £91.
Cracking battery if you haven't tried one before.
I have only just done the cover so the job is not 100% finished. So far I have just filed the edges to remove any roughness. It is still bright metal.
I was going to use Tiger Seal to bond the bottom frame bit to the metal. Maybe I should paint round with Hammerite or Rustoleum first.
Let me know when you want the files. You need a largish print bed of 230x230. My old one was only 200x200.
I printed it in ABS as I said, but ABS warps terribly. You may be better printing it in PETG or even PLA, it's easier.
I used 6mm nuts and bolts and 8mm screw inserts to screw the lid on.
Anybody who has other suggestions what to make, speak now. I was looking at fitting two air compressors, one outside the EAS box on a special bracket. I know Marty has fitted two compressors. Maybe a pressure gauge bracket for under the bonnet.
I am doing a windscreen ice scraper at the minute. Not needed in SA.
Yes, the tank was still in place when I cut it.
I used a dremel and their speedclic metal cutting discs. They are 38mm diam so don't protrude down much.
Just take your time, Amazing what you can do with a dremel.
If you print the bottom bit first you can locate it in the right place in the floor corugations and use it as a template.
Then use a marker pen on the inside edge.
I can confirm one of the points that Chasman made, because I have Arnott Gen III's fitted.
The spring rates are different compared to Dunlops. High is markedly softer, std is slightly harder and motorway height is quite a bit harder.
How is this? It is because the spring rate is dependant on the cross section of the piston, or the machined part (aluminium in the case of Arnott Gen III's) at the bottom that slides in and out of the air bag. The piston profile dictates the spring rates at various heights. Machine it different and you get a different rate. As mentioned dampers will be the same throughout the entire range, so they are a compromise.
Hi Harv, the cover is in two pieces and they were long prints using ABS filament, like 12 hours+ each, so I don't fancy doing a run of them, even to sell. It is just an interest of mine.
3d printers have never been so cheap, if you fancy having a go. They are under $200 now for a decent one. Made in China of course.
I can let you have the files. An alternative is for you to get it printed commercially but just a one off for you yourself personnally.
I don't want my designs to get released out there for everyone. Anyone to could then start selling them. With Thingiverse you have to agree it is non commercial before you can sign up.
I changed all my screws and bolts for stainless steel and I cut out new brackets from a sheet of stainless. Keeping it standard is not important to me.
Mud flaps and wheel arch liners come off easy now.
The only other things that come to mind are the leak off pipes between the injectors. Shouldn't cause it to cut out though. Maybe a rough tickover.
What about no.4 injector? Have you got a spare to try out?
Stuttering and dying is fuel. Maybe the FIP. Its a big job to change it.
Hi Sloth, I have gone back and changed the pics as you asked.
The hatch fits the corrugations in the floor and the cover / lid finishes flush, so the carpet lays flat. It is 205mm x 220mm. I couldn't print it before but I have got a new slightly larger printer. The hatch must be up to version 8 or 9 now. I have lost count. Two 6mm bolts on each side and another four to bolt the lid on. I used screw inserts to hold the lid.
I was going to use sealant between the floor and bottom bit but haven't bothered yet. It might be needed if you go wading.
It might be just me but I think there might be transmission noise being transmitted through the plastic cover, so I may stick some soundproofing underneath.
I have not yet posted the design on Thingiverse, but if you want to have a go at printing it, pm me and I will send the .stl files.
I have a hatch under the carpet in the rear to get at the intank fuel pump.
It is or was just a metal flap that you bend up to get at the pump and then taped down with duct tape the rest of the time.
Not very satisfactory really, so I have printed a cover in ABS.
It sits flush with the carpet.