The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
639 posts

The main pages (or top pages) at RR.net were a treasure trove of information, built up over many years by many contributors.

When the new forum owners took over, the top pages were locked and as a consequence could not be updated. I know that Toad, no matter what you think of him, rewrote a lot of the sections but the owners (or IT guys) in Canada in their arrogance refused to alter them.

Just recently with the new look website, the top pages have disappeared altogether. All the forum users have a stake in this, they are not just the property of VerticalScope.

However a link has just appeared on the site. Apparently a guy has saved all the pages to his Google drive.
I have downloaded as much as I can. I can open documents OK but there are still some links to an external website. It needs someone with better IT skills to see if they can be kept as one standalone document.

We should have them available on here.

Just posted a comment on RR.net and this is the message that came up:-

"Thank you for posting! Your post will not be visible until a moderator has approved it for posting."

What gives?

Out driving the car yesterday and there was a sudden metallic crunch from underneath followed by a grinding sound.
Eventually got the car home and I have just crawled underneath this morning and drained the rear diff oil into a jug.
Silvery colour and metallic fur on the magnetic drain plug !
Had new recon diff fitted in March (but only 2 pin which I didn't ask for) . It has failed after 3 months.
Has 12 months warranty so should be covered.

Slowly working my way through a few electrical problems on the car. Blown fuses .... now fixed and found to be the door mirror wiring.

Next is Hevac LCD panel which is dead and then my DAB aerial showing a fault on my (Kenwood) radio.

The Hevac unit: Checked the bulbs. Centre one had blown so fitted another one. Put 12v on one of the other bulb holders and they all light up except the middle one behind the panel. Had a horrible thought later about polarity so I hope I haven't damaged anything.

Decided to do the mod to the panel connector while I was at it. Marty, who is away at the moment, kindly posted one on the way to the airport. Thanks Marty. I followed instructions and took it all apart on the bench, cleaned everything and put it back together. Back in the car, I used Faultmate to test the unit. Everthing checks out, controls, switches etc. Everthing works, however the display panel still won't light up. I shone a torch through the bulb holder and the panel is working. The display is really clear and much better than it was. No loss of pixels.

Problem is the bulb, which I tested as ok, does not light up when in the holder. Any ideas where to look? I have got a box of new bulbs on the way.
I tested the bulb holder contacts in the car to see if there was power on it and there doesn't appear to be. Could this be a component fault?
If I can't solve it I was thinking of soldering a couple of thin wires to another bulb holder and fitting an LED behind it.

Fuse 9 under the seat is 20A and controls "Front audio system amplifiers, front doors" according to the handbook.

It first blew a couple of weeks back. The door winders and fobs suddenly stopped working. I replaced it and it was OK for about a week. Now it repeatedly blows again and I have been unable to trace what is causing it. I fit a new fuse, turn the ignition on, and the window winders, locks and radio all work again. As soon as I start the engine, it blows. Is there anything else that runs through fuse 9?

My HEVAC central LCD panel is also currently off and I don't know if this is related. The switches light up ok but no display. I swapped the panel for another spare (but an early one) and it doesn't light up either. I swapped them back and tried unplugging relays under the bonnet related to HEVAC .... heater blowers, aircon clutch etc. Still blows.

Disconnected radio leads. Still blows. I have also added a few things to the wiring over the years ... a switch for the aircon fans (wired through a relay anyway) and a USB connection/Hella charging panel in the back. Disconnected all the leads. Still blows. Running low on 20A fuses, I fitted a 30A fuse. Still blows. Plugged in a diagnostic current measuring device that you plug into a fuse socket and it went off scale and blew the fuse in the device.

Turning the ignition on, everything seems fine. No short circuits. No blown fuses. Start the engine (diesel) and it blows with a pop. Any ideas?

While trying to find the source of a bad rumble, I recently replaced my front wheel bearings. I could swear the rumble was coming from the front and only later discovered it was the rear diff ! Not wishing to lie on my back in the drive to do the job, I got an indy to fit a new diff.
The car is running OK now but I thought I would check out the rear hubs and brakes which was not part of the indy's job.
I am not entirely happy with what they have done. They fitted a refurbished 2 pin diff without asking me and managed to round some of the bolts holding the hub carrier on.
However, one thing I noticed is that they have used sealant on the joint between the hub carrier and the rear axle. They are machined faces with 6 bolts.
I can't see the point of using sealant as the oil seal keeps the oil in the axle. There is no mention of using sealant in Rave.

Why are the rear mud shields FTC3546, so expensive? Britpart from £72 each and OEM £100 each or even more!
They are just made out of pressed steel with a stiffener bar across.
Anyone made their own?

I am in the process of replacing a CV joint and I am struggling to get the thing apart (again). I need alternative suggestions on methods you have used.
I have done near side no problem and I am now on with the off side (after replacing the wheel bearings and top and bottom bushes).
I removed the half shaft and held it up in my hand and whacked CV joint with a heavy hammer. It fell apart no problem.
Fitted a new circlip to the shaft and, using the cable tie method to keep the circlip in place, tapped the new CV joint on. No problem, so far so good.
Replaced axle oil seal and fitted half shaft back. Went back to workshop and realised I had left the spacer off the shaft, bugger.
Now I can't get the new CV joint apart again. I tried whacking it with a brass hammer. I also have a home made puller which consists of a length of 5" diam pipe with an end plate. I clamped the shaft in a vice, put the pipe over the joint with the stub axle through the plate then tighten the nut. I am tightening it with a breaker bar and the shaft is pulling through the vice jaws. It is a considerable force. Any tips or suggestions? I have a spare half shaft and a new CV joint is on order just in case.

I need a bit of advice on replacing wheel bearings.

I have just completed fabricating a 20 tonne hydraulic press and I have used it to press out the inner part of my front hub, the bit with the wheel studs on. It started to shift at around 10 or 12 tonnes I would guess.

The bearing inner ring is made in two halves and one half is still wedged on the shaft. I am planning on putting some heat into it to get it off the shaft, unless someone says otherwise. I tried a puller but I can't get the jaws under it (my puller is half knackered anyway).

The inner ring is hard up against the back of the hub and I can see a thin disk. Is this a separate dust seal that I need to retain or is it just part of the original bearing that can be ditched? I can't tell until I get it off. It had the original Timken bearing fitted, which was a double roller bearing with a nylon cage.

I have also removed the circlip and pressed out the rest of the bearing from the outer hub. It was tight, right at the limit of 20 tonnes I would guess before it made a bang and started to move.

Reassembly? After cleaning up the hub I was going to press the bearing into the outer hub first, by just pressing the outer ring. Then fit a new circlip and press the whole thing onto the hub shaft, pressing on the inner ring only. Any comments appreciated.

I also notice my replacement is a ball bearing marked SAHA.

Driving back from North Wales yesterday with the grandkids, when what started out as a whine soon developed into a loud rumble after about 50 miles.
I have just taken off the LHF hub and knocked out the half shaft and CV joint to have a look. The CV joint seems OK but the hub bearing is the obvious culprit. It feels rough in one place as you rotate it.
I had a home made 20t hydraulic press half completed, so I guess I am going to be busy this week finishing it off so I can fit a new wheel bearing.
While I am at it, I want to replace the top and bottom ball joints in the hub and I see a few of you guys have done it before so would appreciate any tips.
I have not replaced them before. Do the ball joints simply hammer out? or is a special tool needed?


I had Ashcrofts fit a HP24 gearbox to my diesel way back in 2012. At their recommendation I had a boss welded on to the gearbox sump to accept a temperature probe.
At the time I bought a cheap digital temperature gauge on Ebay and cannibalised the guts. I fitted the digital panel bit into a spare space in the instrument binicle. The temperature sensor that came with the kit was a two wire thermistor type.
It has worked well for 6 years but has just failed. The temp shows 01 deg C.
I have measured the old sensor resistance and it has gone open circuit. I have now plugged a new two wire sensor in (not yet screwed into the gearbox) and the digital panel now does its startup cycle which it didn't before but then shows 130 deg C. at just ambient temp.
The new sensor resistance is about 50 ohms which does alter with temp. I tried it in boiling water. It is an NTC thermistor. Resistance drops as the temp rises. It looks physically exactly the same as the old one.
I thought that all cheap car temperature probes would be standardised, use the same thermistor and have the same range. However I am now suspecting that there are different resistances despite the ranges all saying 0-150 deg C.. Anybody shed some light on this?
I know there are single wire and twin wire types. There is no technical data included with the sensor other than it is 0-150 deg C.
I could buy another complete gauge kit that comes with a sensor so they are a matched pair but the dash will have to come out again to fit it.
One other thing: I measured the voltage to the sensor plug and it is only 5 or 6 volts. Not sure what voltage it should be from the digital head unit. It has a 12v supply to it behind the dash.

Just got the car through the MOT with no advisories for about the 3rd or 4th year running. I was feeling pretty smug and happy with the car at this point. A nice warm feeling inside.
This feeling lasted less than 24 hours when I came out last Friday morning and it would not start. I investigated and found the in tank pump had gone. It was the original though and had lasted 17 years.
I have since cut a hatch in the boot and now replaced the pump, however the fittings were badly corroded on the old pump and the new pump did not come with any, so I have now ordered new female nuts and olives. However the male part of the joint is part of the fuel pipe and they are relatively expensive from L/R.
I can shorten the old pipes and fit new hose tails but I am having difficulty sourcing them. They seem to be male M12 x 1.0mm pitch and 6mm i.d. Seems to be a bastard size. It is not BSP, NPT or AN. Can anyone confirm the size? It also appears to be the same as used on Defenders and Discos.

I am recently down to one working keyfob so tempting fate. I have had a look at it as best I can, but the fault seems to be the microswitches on the circuit board.
I read a few comments about a guy on Ebay that does repairs. I have had a look and there are several advertising. Can anyone recommend one they have used?

I need some advice on paint spraying, not the whole car just a few touch ups here and there. I have an air compressor and a couple of new unused paint spraying guns to use.
The last time I sprayed a car was 40 years ago and I remember just using cellulose paint. Things have moved on with different types of paint and I need to know what type is easiest and most forgiving for home use? My car is Blenheim silver, a metallic finish.
I have a few small dents to knock out and I will also try my hand at panel beating. Hopefully once the weather turns for the better.
I will start with the slam panel under the bonnet which is not too visible.

I have been running Microcat for a long time on my ancient Panasonic Toughbook which I now use just for diagnostics. It runs XP.
However I just dug the disc out to install it on my new Windows 10 (64 bit) machine and it will not install even after trying compatibility mode.
Anyone running it under Windows 10? If so is there a different version?

I was caught out again this week by the BECM waking up when parked and flattening the battery. I guess I could solve the problem once and for all and go out and buy the mk3 receiver but it is very expensive. I have since removed the blue aerial lead again which I had foolishly replaced when refitting a trim panel in the back.
It would be a big help if there was an easier way to see if the BECM is asleep or awake. The led on the auto gear change panel is difficult to see from outside. I am thinking about fitting a more prominent indicator. Maybe a brighter led on the dash.
Where would be a good point to pick up the signal? I thought about the park led on the gear change panel. The circuits would have to be isolated, but how to do it? Need comments from Gilbertd and/or Marty I think.

Hi, first post so here goes.

I need some opinions please. I have got a 2000 DSE with about 140K miles on the clock.
I have a high pitched noise from the top of the engine at the front. Louder when it is cold, it gets quieter after a run.
It goes OK and starts OK even with engine hot so I don't think the timing chains are too stretched yet.
It does not sound like followers or tappets.
I suspect the EGR vacuum pump. I don't actually need the pump any more as I have blanked off the EGR.
Has anybody removed the vac pump completely? If so does it leave an opening to the end of the camshaft that needs blanking off?
I haven't looked in detail what is involved as yet.

Hello guys,
It is a real pleasure to support this forum. I hope to be a regular contributor.
I have had a p38 for 14 years now. Getting old now like me.