It depends Mace/Miah on what you mean by 'way higher' there - as the base noise on that diagram is about 10V and the CKP pulses (only) about 12V - plus this is an analogue (magnetic/AC) system of course. Thus any fault - eg, larger sensor/tooth gaps, bent teeth, cracks in flex plate, detritus etc affecting that magnetic field can easily result in false triggers - eg. the (expected regular) pulse missing (in particular) or causing (less frequently) multiple pulses, thus confusing the ECU/timing.
Hope that helps, if I can find any illustrations (or photos) of a faulty CKP I will post that up !
The Crank Sensor is just a basic coil, and there is precious little attempt to clean up the output, and as we know it can fail without producing a Fault Code so -IMHO- it is 'not exactly integrated into the Digital Electronics within the engine ECUs'. Again (with a pristine coil) the distance from the sensor to the teeth is probably the key factor. and similarly any detritus on the teeth will also affect the waveform produced, which (should) look like:
http://www.lanzo.se/auto/graphics/jag.gif (I would personally invest in a 'scope and/or borrow one before replacing the flex plate...)
EDIT: Had a quick (failed) look for the LR illustration for this signal for the GEMs, in the ETM IIRC (?), but the main point (as the the Jag/Pico diagram above illustrates) is that the peaks are not much higher that the base noise and so the possibility for false trggers is also high.......
Beowolf said: "On a related note why couldn’t someone clone the functionality of a nanocom, which itself is a clone of sorts of testbook, by watching the signaling on the wire between the nanocom and the various ECUs? I realize that being able to see the digital signal doesn’t mean you can know the data payload. Exploring this has been on my someday list for a long time."
Simple answer to that Beowulf is that the Proprietary Protocols (particularly the handshaking) used are very difficult to 'reverse engineer'; Just observing the pulses is not enough... The EAS is (was) the 'simplest' of them all to 'emulate' of course, and even that took much inspiration/perspiration...the Engine ECUs are another matter entirely.
OUCH !.... as you know it is a fiddly job replacing the screen, and in this weather it needs to be done inside (due to the bonding agent in particular)
Speaking of 'fiddly' I would personally use some super-glue in/on the crack and/or wait for warmer weather.....
eg. This kind: low-viscosity for 'wicking' (ie. capillary) purposes:
https://www.charnwood.net/products/product/ca-uk-ultra-thin-cyanoacrylate-superglue-50g-wicking-bond-ca028/category_pathway-279
It's been a while since I looked at CLV stuff but I would say that RAVE is wrong, although different defintions of CLV do exist.
However if you take the normal/coventional definition- " % of Max. torque at sea level etc" - then clearly 10% at 2500 RPM is far too low,
whereas 35-45% seems more likely ?
Not exactly "Snake Oil", usually more like mere Sodium Silicate with £30 "worth" of green dye added......?
Yes Lpgc, it certainly took some time but BT now have WiFi "HotSpot" maps with "less specific detail" on them...
ie. the type of detail that could 'certainly help reveal/identify individual/personal locations etc...QED
eg. http://home.bt.com/images/bt-wifi-map-136420484300502601
Now: https://www.btwifi.com/find/
Note they also moved from 'StreetView' to 'Geome' to facilitate this too
(and with limited 'zoom' now. which was my main point of course....)
PS: Why does this thread have 22K readings ??
I suspect BT et al have used it for GDPR training purposes.....
for "How NOT to breach the rules" courses maybe !
Not sure why Bolt but I can certainly imagine Homer having a P38.....
something to do with his "it seemed like a good idea at the time" approach maybe ?
So it was just the 4-pin relay causing the (main) Nano problem ??....
yes well... we have all done similar 'bits of self-sabotage' whilst diagnosing stuff - of course !
As for the Nano issue you may be aware Bolt the EAS deploys a pair of 'dedicated' pins on the OBD connector; Start there (they can corrode/break).....
As for the fault itself - if not the connectors in the EAS box under the bonnet (check/clean) then also check that the EAS ECU connector under the seat too.
Sounds like you know what you are doing Geryhound5 so you probably also know there is an (gearbox) output shaft and (more traditional) road speed indicator in the mix (somewhere) too..... but what are your Cruise Conttrol symptoms ?
As you have surmised with these kinds of signal problems actually driving around with a portable 'scope is much better than 'turning wheels by hand' anyway. I have used (fairly cheap) laptop-based USB 'scopes with (reasonable) success in that regard.
Yes good luck with your casting indeed: Tricky !
That makes sense Richard - the ABS ECU effectively modulates the ABS sensor pulses....
Engine ECUs usually need vehicle speed info as part of their 'MAP' computations, along with RPM, Airflow etc data..
and in some cases (not sure for the P38...) provide inputs to the Gearbox (ECU) to to regulate gear changes too
Not sure but I would assume (!) that the 'pulsed waveform' reference relates to the standard ABS 'sensors/'reluctance' teeth on the hubs combo (?)
I have turned wheels by hand like that myself and the (AC) output from the sensors depends on the speed of the wheel - after all the ABS sensor is just a coil... with chunks of metal going by (the teeth) and this is effectively a waveform generator (?).....
Again , RAVE is not exactly The Bible !
Moisture/condensation on electrics (eg. HT leads) ? If you let it warm up whilst stationary first -for say 10 mins- does this still happen ?
Tempted to add the 'old favourite' of the CPS too...... and those 'coils' we _all _have too !
Like Sloth said: +1 for the CPS: Faulty one does not throw up a Fault Code either of course
Intriguing indeed....
http://www.mossmotoring.com/conventional-vs-silicone-brake-fluid/
Looks like the main advantage of Silicone is that it does not dissolve (cellulose) paint..
but the disadvantage is it allows water to 'pool' (and corrode Master Cylinders etc) ?
-Based on that I'm sticking with stock !
" If anybody is considering ordering parts from AutoDoc, I'd strongly advise against it as when you have problems, their customer service is non existent and they will never refund the entire cost of your order! "
As you may be aware under the relevant UK Consumer Laws if a supplier sends out faulty/defective goods then they are fully liable for the postage costs to and (back) from the buyer' . It can often be different internationally however....
Ultimately it further depends on what Autodoc's (published) Ts&Cs may say, although, as others have indicated, PayPay would probably rule in your favour David.
BT Hub/Weatherstation/etc should not be a problem if the RF Receiver is still disconnected...
Not sure what that 'low level noise behind the dash' is though.... odd !
Not so much 'Vouge SE' as 'Vulgar SE'. where SE = 'Strange Extensions' ? "Each to his own" perhaps... Interesting DVLA history too: Not sure that is strictly street legal (for the UK) either; Is he driving it around with the EAS permanently on its highest setting for those wheels or have some extensions been fiited beteen the hubs and chassis ? Must be dodgy on corners either way... Sad.
But what does 'Dunlop' really mean on these things ? Made In China in a factory that happens to have the letters D U N L O P handy perhaps ?
Using respected names like this solely to boost their margins etc etc Yes, maybe I am a little jaded from buying so-called OEM stuff at a premium and then realising their "Quality Control" is dubious too ? Not just for RR items either - a seemingly-universal problem with car parts now of course /rant off
