30 miles on the bumpstops ?? Ouch ! I drove about 3 on them once and nearly needed a chiropractor.....
Yes, lots of possibilities there as far as causes are concerned; "Sits fine without dropping" though, you mean the problem only happens when you are moving ? (Which could mean the leak is on a corner somewhere ?) Soapy water spray time !
Yes, if the compressor gets too hot the thermal fuse within will trip....
no10chris wrote:
Bubbling, can’t remember the last time I saw a battery that wasn’t sealed,, 🤣😂
Surely all L/A batteries are also vented or would go "bang !!" if/when (over)charged Chris ?!
The factory fitted item - actually more of a (steel) captive nut than a rivnut - tend to corrode and seize up solid; Would be similar (or worse) with an alloy rivnut of course, even the "heavyweight" variety.. Best to just use the holes - drill out where necessary - and use SS bolts throughout instead !?
From the sounds of it Dave I may have been on that same DC3 ! Air Zambia/Kamikaze...?... I remember 'walking uphill' to my seat, and how many passengers were smoking pipes... nervously... I think you actually have to go there to realise how 'Wild' Africa really is....
In fact I did not see any RRs there though, just lots of Toyotas, mainly Land Cruisers of course (some with bullet holes right through them too; Road Bandits !). It's probably just the same now....
What ??? Amazing ! Send the pic. tho JLR and ask if is a record ?
Maybe you will get a better chance to video it again at 500K....
Didn't get there but went to Ndola; All crazy places, everything very cheap.... including life itself: (ie. 'heat' of a different kind)
DC3 back to Lusaka ... then wearing the obligatory Big Hat all the way back to LHR ! .
Crank Position Sensor on its way out ?
Yes, I have been in Death Valley in summer and it was hotter than hell, not in a P38 though but I did have a Jeep with A/C; It is not called Furnace Creek for nothing.... Whilst I was tempted to go 'off piste' I was told later the baked earth is ' much less stable than it looks '....
Visited Kitwe once.and enjoyed that 'dry heat' there too; A/C in the Hotel was broken, as was I !!
PS: On reflection I would not actually trust my 'go anywhere' P38 to travel through Death Valley in Summer, working A/C or not....
He must have (also) used the aformentioned "pancake mix" type then Brian !?
Definitely lots of 'snake oil' variants available, with fanciful names like 'Liquid Copper'..... and it is expensive too..
whereas 'pure' Sodium Silicate (33%) solution is about a tenner a litre...
Yes, K Seal can be quite an emotive topic Bolt.... but it can also work, at least for a time on small/er leaks.(depending on just where they are in the cooling system)
The 'Active Ingredient' is Sodium Silicate (qv), in solution of course, which hardens to a ceramic-type substance if/when in contact with air and hot enough.
However I am skeptical of the additional materials some variants deploy, eg copper filaments & etc though - and certainly any water-course-blocking 'gloops' some of them use....
Hope it holds out for you; !
Marty: I looked at the Vlairs once but recall they were noisy (?). In the end I went for an L322 unit instead (Wabco) which fits in the spare wheel/well (in a felt-lined cradle with a foam lid... ).... but you can still hear it inside the car !
Whilst I appreciate all that Clive but the pressure differential happens as soon as the piston is going down of course (?), It is probably more important that ithe valve closes as the piston comes back up and seals it ? And it may just be as mentioned above that with the long strip on top the valve simply opens further (than it does if the short strip is on top) and that improves the overall air throughput (?)
Either way it may be one of those situations where they carefully calculated all the parameters.... but then just used LR-style 'trial and error' instead ?!
Unfortunately I am a Physics type Bolt (!), my 'resonant' comment being based on the fact the air 'flow' is actually a series of high-frequency pulses...
The 'spring steel' the reed is made of must be particularly flexible though ! ...
Yes, it is quite easy to fall into the trap that P38s are 'the result of logical thoughts'.... (albeit tinged only by all the random cr@p within !) ?
Interesting results Bolt !
Maybe with the short srtip on top this then actually interferes (ie. reduces) with the flow through the inlet hole instead (?)
Also I think the long strip is flexible enough to block the hole (?)
It is possible that the resonant frequency of the reed plays a part in all this too
Just goes to show that 'counter-intuative sometimes really works (better)' too !?
That's what I find a little strange Richard, if they bothered to put a stop plate on the outlet then why not the inlet too ? (if there is space enough)
Guessing we won't know until someone reverses these strips and runs it for a while either; With the short strip on top we might get twice the output but the compressor fails in half the time ?? (and/but having half a long strip drop off into the cylinder could also rapidly do some damage within too...)
I am intrigued Bolt..... do let us know !
As you indicate yourself in #6 Bolt the short strip should be added to act as a 'damper' to restict the oscillations of the longer strip (?)
Putting the short piece on top may increase the airflow but also reduce the working life of the long strip (?)
In short placed on top it should reduce the chances of metal fatigue in the longer strip... so why isn't it indeed ?.......
EDIT: Did some research Google Reed Valve Stop Plate for details..... as that seems essentially the basic function of the shorter piece here,
or it could/should be (?)
Or perhaps the short piece being on top could cause the longer strip to fail sooner at their junction (?)....
(Although now I am wondering why it is there at all if it is/was just a spacer..!)
Hi Symes, just read your interchange with 'sully' on rr.net; What an idiot ... Not sure what his problem is but it always surprises me on Forums when folks ask such questions, ie "how can I make my car illegal/dangerous ?".... and then they don't like/take the sensible advice they are given !
Yes, at $40 I assumed it was a (cheap) clone of something, but I have now ordered one anyway and if I can get it to do something useful will let you all know ! l also suspect it will be a PITA to set it up, and at best will give the same results as a (cheap) Code Reader too (?) We will see.
Their ISO9141 reference implies it will deal with earlier P38 systems (eg. SRS) albeit on a diiferent pinout to standard OBD arrangement.
This is the Legit stuff:
http://www.drewtech.com/products/mongoose.html
..but which does not actually list JLR in their "Sell Sheet" mentioned !
However, and also for the more serious dabblers only...
https://trialsofarrsowner.wordpress.com/part-5-what-can-i-use-to-get-the-suspension-fault-information/
ie. JLR changed their protocols..... !
Whilst I know all on here are NANO officionados has anyone dabbled/tried this on our beasts ?
Handles the crucial ISO9141 protocol. hence my question.....
Interesting tale Clive; There are all kinds of odd (and persistent) adhesives that are used with cars of course, and it irritated me in particular when something was stuck on plastic/painted/etc surfaces, meaning it was not possible to use a 'standard solvent' (eg. thinners/acetone/etc) to remove it - or it will affect that surface detrimentally... and turps/meths/white spirit seemed ineffective too. Yes, cars get hot and stuff bakes on and/or melts.....
On my travels I found something I can recommend though: "Goo Gone" (and I promise you I am not making that name up). Bit pricey though £10/8oz -and it whiffs a bit for a while too- but it has proved invaluable to me over the years.. it even gets chewing gum out off carpets/kid;s hair !! Not quite sure what it is based on (although I was intrigued enough to read the Patent) and it takes some time to work, but it does work ! Worth a try....
No doubt others have their own 'solutions' too !?