TKing - I'm just posting to offer moral support!

I was in a vaguely similar position just a few months ago. I'd bought a year 2000 car for £1000, drove it for 5 or 6 months and then really started looking at it as the next MOT loomed.

I had to rebuild much of the front axle because ALL of the balljoints were completely gone, and one of my calipers was more or less jammed on. This wasn't really news I wanted. I'd go as far as to say that I wouldn't have stuck with it without the advice and support I got here - a wealth of expertise, readily offerred.

I think a lot will depend on your circumstances - time, tools, facilities etc but as they real experts have said above, there's not a lot there that can't be done relatively easily.

One thing I would advise is to get the hang of posting pics on this site - that makes things more effective for you, as it allows others to offer much more focussed advice (no pun intended!)

I think it just "depends".... I can send them the dimensions, and a few days later I'll get a set of hoses made-to-measure, which I can just fit simply into place. It saves me a bit of time, and a bit less stress as an "amateur" mechanic making up lines for something as critical as brake systems on a >2-tonne car. It's not the cheapest - I think I was £300 for the whole Defender system - 7 hoses I think - but ease of fitment and peace of mind have to be worth something.

Like I said though, I'm not wedded to the idea yet, I was just canvassing opinions on the principle on a P38.

GilbertD's suggestion of getting stainless ends to go with the kunifer I already have is a good one - though again, I might find I have to contort my hands up into that space between the chassis and the fuel tank, with 2" long spanners....

Just kicking the can!

I wonder if we're talking about the same thing though? I don't mean lines where the braid is on the outside - I can see that this could abrade other things. This is the company I got my Defender lines from - others are available: pioneer4x4.com As you can see, the braiding is internal to the line, so I can't see that they are likely to damage anything else very much. I think it's a combination of silicon outers, stainless braid inside, and a teflon liner. Maybe not available in your market because of legislation?

How long should it last? I guess maybe our conditions will be different. If I fitted new lines, copper and mild steel fittings, after the first winter, with the amount of salt on our roads (I'm in the north of Scotland) I'd expect the fittings to look rusty. After 2 or 3 winters there's going to be a risk of rounding things off during maintenance. The flexi hoses I took off the front of the car a few months ago might have been original (maybe not) but they were scrap. Not so much for the hose itself, but because the ends just corrode into unrecognisable lumps of rust. They might do the job while they are on, or attached, but as soon as you touch them they fall apart.

I'm not saying I'd fit them to the car and leave them 20 years, but at least when I did want to do any maintenance, I'd have a fighting chance of getting them off in one piece with a minimum of fuss and swearing.

Well, I haven't got round to this yet. The car ( a little surprisingly) passed its MOT without my requiring to rebuild the back suspension. So while it's definitely on the 'to do' list, to stop the car wallowing and bouncing about if driven in the least enthusiastically on a minor road, it's dropped down the list of priorities for a while.

Defender MOT tomorrow, and if that's then out of the way, I can start to build up the parts for the P38 job. Maybe for the quiet days over Christmas.

But, as I said at the outset, I have these pipes for the entire Defender system - and it's a 110 so some reasonably long runs. I find them to be really good, and if there's an impact on the pedal press, I can't feel it. Of course, as has been said above, there will be other considerations with a P38 that my Defender doesn't have, such as ABS or TC, running a pump rather than a servo.

It's by no means certain I'll do this - I do have a roll of kunifer, tools and fittings - but I do really dislike working on brakes, so the maintenance free element of braided hoses is attractive (do it once, forget about it for years.)

Thanks Gd,

I'm also getting the 'sunroof not working' message - and it's not that annoying really. It hadn't occurred to me that I could turn it off in the BECM temporarily - however long that might be. I don't know yet if the motor works, but I'd imagine so.

To be fair, where I am, a sunroof won't be any kind of priority for the next 6 months or so!

Just looked at where Beccles is on the map..... yup, that's a long way down.

On sunroofs though, what's the more common problem, or problems? Mine is there, but doesn't work. I suspect the motor is disconnected behind the light.

At this time of year I really don't want a sunroof stuck half open, but it's on the list of things to try and fix.

Can it be fully opened/closed manually? I'm thinking if I could run it back and fore a few times it might ease up. At very least I might know if any fault was with the mechanism, or something else?

1Steven wrote:

Kent to Orkney two ferry rides, can't wait. Workshop, land and fishing. 58°

Haven't been to Orkney for a few years now - used to go annually at least to dive the wrecks in Scapa Flow. Are you 'mainland' or even further afield?

I was really tempted to go across for a self-catering break this fortnight, probably won't, but it might be nice to know there's someone similarly deranged close by who might help in a crisis!

blobthebuilder wrote:

I puller into layby on way home pulled 3 clicks it held then moved forewards with difficulty but 4 clicks it took over 2500revs and stayed put

blobthebuilder wrote:

I puller into layby on way home pulled 3 clicks it held then moved forewards with difficulty but 4 clicks it took over 2500revs and stayed put

Not MOT related, but this is how I toasted my first ever RR handbrake, on the old 1984 classic. 3.5 V8 with the twin carbs and the three speed Chrysler auto box.

Disembarking the ferry back from Stornoway (where I bought it on a work trip) I thought the front wheels were turned up against a low level metal 'wall' and stopping me going forward, so I tried to move; tried to move; tried to move; and finally gave it some serious welly. Turned out the resistance I was feeling wasn't tyres against metal, but handbrake against propshaft! The 55 miles back home, with the remnants of the handrake still on, didn't do it any favours - but that's what the 'park' setting on an auto box is for, right?

Sounds like you had a real 'mare' with your tester.

Thanks very much Gd. It does sound as if it shouldn't be too difficult then - famous last words.

I know what you mean about the leather vs cloth thing. Our 'sensible' car - maybe until I trust the P38 as much as you do! - is a Skoda Yeti. Black leather seats, but they are heated and the car has A/C - though we don't get the sun so much away up here!!

So this is definitely 'frivolous' as I'm sure the existing seats are functional enough. I suppose I just feel some nice, soft leather seats are just a RR is all about!

If I go for it, I think the seats would come with looms etc, but I'd make sure to ask.

Thanks again.

I don't know about the Bosch reader I'm afraid. The 'Bosch'/Thor cars weren't till later than 1996 - but the code reader might work.

How did you reconnect the airbag? Did you use the original plug, or replace it with something else? It would be a shame to have a working code reader, but find the fault is still there.

Evening all,

As I now have a new MOT I'm indulging in a little more seat speculation!

Having read up some more, and digested what's in the replies above I think I'm more informed.

The label on my BECM has gone completely blank - only the LR logo remains - but as I have a sunroof; a mid-range speaker install; and an electric height adjustable driver's seat, I believe I have a Highline version.

I now know that the loom for the driver's seat (height motor only) has a green plug, and plugs into the BECM on the side next to the transmission tunnel. I have no idea if there is any 'default' wiring for the passenger seat under the carpets.

So I have three (!) questions at this stage:
1) I've read about seat 'outstations' or ECUs, and seen one on ebay. But it was a 1995 part. My car is 2000, maybe even a 2001 build judging by the VIN number. Do I need to get seat ECUs/outstations?

2)Just confirming what Marty said above - if I have a Highline BECM, the driver's seat is just a simple plug and play?

3) passenger's seat - if there's no pre-installed wiring, and I get the loom with the replacement seat - how does that work? Marty's reply suggests it's not a BECM thing, but a relay-based installation. Will there be a plug to connect to somewhere, or does the wiring for this run under the carpet to the BECM?

As always all advice really appreciated.

Ta

How old is the car? As I understand it, newer ones (after 1999?) self clear the fault if it's fixed. Older ones need to be cleared via diagnostics.

If it's a newer one, and the light is staying on, then there's still a fault.

Thanks Clive. My wife has just asked me: "Does this mean you can stop swearing at the car for two weeks?" I think she knows it's a little unlikely.....!

There was nothing wrong with the brakes as such, just a tester not familiar with the car - though I do think there must be some air in the system still, as the ABS pump seems to run a little more often. Maybe some swearing will help......

On the brake pipes, now that I don't have to start work on the rear axle immediately, I think I'll do just what you say and enjoy the car for a bit ( we're off work for the next fortnight ) and then start planning that job in a more leisurely fashion. I have a roll of Kunifer, tools and fittings, but I still lean to the braided option just because it seems as near a 'fit and forget' option as I'm likely to get.

You've mentioned an 'anti-vibration curve' - I think I've seen that taken to an extreme on the Defender, a whole circle in the pipe. All I could see there was a perfect 'bubble trap'. It's since been cut out and replaced.

Ha ha! Yep, we went there too. "How did you do the brake test?" - "On a deccelerometer." - "Did the lights go out?" - "Yes, but they didn't when I drove slowly into the workshop, and I have to test by the sequence on the wall chart" ... Nonsense!

My usual place up here is booked out a whole month in advance right now. I think it's the wave of folk who had 6 month 'Covid MOt extensions' testing their cars again, so I had to go somewhere different. Maybe there's a reason one place is booked a month in advance, and another has a space at 2 days notice.

Well! That was ..... interesting!

Phoned the MOT station and was told the car had failed. Oh dear, says I, not entirely surprised. What was the fail, and can I still drive it home? I was told it was a 'major fail: ABS light indicates a fault'...

Hmmmm, says I. Had a wee google and printed off a couple of things that show the car needs to be driven above 5mph for the light to go off, and presented them to the tester. He girned a bit, and took me over to their wall chart which showed..... the vehicle needs to be driven above 5mph.

I left them to change the paperwork, and drove off with a clean MOT pass, and no advisories (which is another big surprise!)

It occurs to me that it's a kind of 'milestone' on my P38 journey. First MOT in my ownership, and from an MOT perspective, the car will never be so bad again as long as I have it, so I feel that this free's me up to start thinking in the longer term.... I do quite fancy some leather seats, but maybe dry carpets should come first.

I know I'll hate it again, and swear at it (lots) when I tackle the back axle, but the only way is up!

Took it for a celebratory spin after the test, and just enjoyed the 'dark' dash - without the SRS/airbag fault lights shining at me.

Hi Marty,

Yup - my opinions exactly - very weedy looking pins. On my first expedition under the seat I gave it a blast of cleaner, replugged it and used a tie wrap around its length! Afraid it didn't work for me though. OK that evening, but next morning it was back again.

I was happy that I got into the car about an hour ago, turned on, and.... no airbag warning! The "24'hour gremlins" must be having a night off. Knowing my luck they'll turn up again just as I turn into the Test station!

Thanks for the reminder Harv - I'd also seen that done, but had forgotten about it. I imagine you could leave those loops in place, but tuck them away under the bonnet when not needed. I'll have a look for suitable bolts along the wing tops.

Don't know why I said I use a stern line - a brain fart! - I don't actually use one of those at all. I do exactly what you've described - two cambelts on each bar, and a bow line to the A bar on the Def.

Meanwhile I'll not be going anywhere if it doesn't pass its MOT tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

Absolutely Dave, it's an 'Aurora' - 16ft - and I've driven it all over the place over the last few years. On the Defender, because the roof bars are so far apart I think it would be possible to do without fore and aft ropes, but I still use them anyway.

On the RR the towball is obviously a great tie off point at the back. Not sure yet what I'll do at the front. If it's at bumper level, then the rope running over the front of the bonnet would chafe and damage the paintwork, so I might use the towing eye and 'sleeve' the rope somehow. Even a basic 'tube' sewn up from an old 'fleece' jacket would do I think.

Well, just in case anyone else finds themselves in this little corner of the internet, I just took the plunge and cut the yellow plugs off (carefully!) and crimped on an econoseal connector. Tied it all up, replaced the seat and.... all is good. I'll confess I put a pair of ear defenders on before turning the ignition key, but nothing exploded, and more importantly the SRS and airbag fault lights stayed off.

Not so sure about a respray - but I might give it a polish - see if it will go faster!

I actually gave the car a wash not long after I took the pic. It had been covered in 'garage dust'... aka the fine rust particles that came off the axle!