I think all is not well with my R90E - the engine cut out as I turned into the end of the farm track this evening, and wouldn't restart on gas. Eventually it restarted on petrol, after a bit of farting and coughing.
Driving the gas solenoid on "by hand" resulted in a loud hiss that emptied the line almost immediately (only hissed for about a second). I'm pretty sure it shouldn't do that. I opened up the vapouriser but couldn't find any signs of split diaphragms or anything, but I strongly suspect the vapouriser has had it. It was leaking quite a bit of coolant, too.
I had a quick look on Tinley Tech's website but they seem to be out of stock of R90Es. They've got some others ranging from about 50 quid to a couple of hundred quid - is there much difference in performance in a closed-loop system? My local LPG fitter probably has multipoint vapourisers, which I guess are no good for my singlepoint install.
Can the soft/firmwares be updated or is that something that owners of earlier cars are stuck with?
I guess, but you'd have to replace the microcontroller since it's one-time programmable :-/
If you do swap it over don't forget to disconnect the speedo :-D
Are you sure the key won't sync when it's immobilised? Seems like a pretty common failure mode...
GeorgeB wrote:
Taken by the Quirino Grandstand facing Rizal Park and where the Great and the Good all sit when they have a bit of a do.
I bet you don't have wet boot carpets :-)
Aww, poor thing. Not a P38 though :-)
Stick some photos of your P38s (or indeed any other vehicles you drive) in interesting places here. I'll start :-)
If it's stupid and it works, it's not stupid.
You wouldn't need to use a spectrum analyser. Wirewound resistors are about as inductive as a straight piece of wire.
Wirewound won't make the tiniest bit of difference, even at lowish RF and certainly not at audio. The inductance is in the order of picoHenries.
Oh, there are rules, the Prime Directive being Don't Be An Arse :-)
Orangebean wrote:
There's a risk that the boots will outlast the joints though :)
Then I'll pick them off and fit them to Lemforders.
I fitted Britpart ones and the boots seemed to be made of the same nice chunky rubber of days of yore. Just goes to show, eh?
My other half's off baking in the sun at a festival up in the Midlands somewhere
And I was baking in the sun in a festival in Bradford, or more accurately marinading in Old Speckled Hen and curry.
With the one at the front, is it maybe dripping down from the oil filter mounting? I've just done the O-ring on the bypass valve.
Annoyingly I'd done the oil pressure switch a few days before (glovebox spare in a CX!) thiniking that was the problem, and if I'd had the O-rings I'd have replaced them at the time since all the same bits have to come off :-)
Resoldering the big SMD resistor didn't help it then?
After a good ten minutes of running the bottom of the filter is still dry. Not nearly as horrible a job as some people seem to make out!
Judging by how squished and brittle the old one was and how easily the cap came out compared to how much effort went to pushing it back in with a nice new O ring, I think I found my leak :-)
With the ignition on but the engine off, using the Heights page in EAS Unlock you should hear the inlet or exhaust and appropriate solenoid click in and out when you hit "Up" or "Down" on each corner.
If it's not building pressure it may be a split diaphragm valve, in which case the EAS compressor wouldn't stop running.