Someone on the rr.net forum (possibly leftlanetruckin?) said they drilled a wee hole in it and rattled a self-tapper down to get something to grip on.
I'll have a rummage at work and see what I can turn up. They're only pennies online anyway, which I suspect is why you have a big bag of them too - "oh, no point buying just a couple when 50 is only a pound more..."
It looks like it ought to be doable once the radiator hoses are out of the way.
I've come to the conclusion that (one of) my massive oil leaks is because of the O-ring on the end of the pressure relief valve. I've seen a kit with a circlip and O-ring for 20 quid on eBay which sounds like a bit of a pisstake. Does anyone know what size the O-ring should be, offhand?
How Hard Can It Be to make up an alternative amp, anyway?
The DSP part is easy, the amp part is easy, you'd just need to work out what the control head is saying to the DSP.
I'm in Kernow at the moment, not seen much to hint at the call for independence yet but I expect to see the black Kernow flag and something about independence still painted on a bridge over the Northbound A30 on my way home, been there since about 1989.
That was the problem with the Scottish indyref, we were thinking too small. We should have redrawn the border around the outside of the M25 first... ;-) And maybe put the Houses of Parliament somewhere nice and central, like Hexham.
Lpgc wrote:
Some of them are conspiracy theorists and reckon it's been possible to run cars on 100% hydrogen generated by a big enough alternator on the engine for many years, except oil companies suppressed the technology! There's no telling most of them - Point out that the little bubbles of hydrogen their systems make wouldn't be 1/10000th of enough hydrogen to run the engine on and they talk about up-scaling their systems.
I did some numbers on it based on half-remembered O-grade Chemistry from nearly 30 years ago and some creative misunderstanding of car engines. You can read it here and please feel free to point out everything that's wrong with it.
I'll do some database poking and see if I can plot some pretty graphs of how posts and signups have grown over time.
The ten thousandth post was this one by Orangebean. I should have thought of some sort of prize :-) The very first one was my post here after I'd deleted the "dummy" first post from setting the forum up, right back at the end of 2015.
Thanks to everyone for all the support!
Well it seems like one off an M-reg one fits okay into an R-reg one, since it got me home :-) Thanks to dhallworth for turning one up at short notice :-)
Does anyone know what the differences between pre-'97 and post-'97 GEMS fuseboxes are?
I could be wrong, but there may be way too much information there?
And here was me about to mention that the best stuff I've found for putting tiny rubber O-rings into the valve block and similar jobs was very fine pure silicone oil, which is expensive in a big bottle - but can be had relatively cheaply in 100ml quantities as latex clothing polish!
Ferryman wrote:
no10chris wrote:
I mentioned blocks on the other site,, guess who cut me down,, lmao
Saw his reply, made me laugh.
I may be wrong but the official dealer calibration tool is a box with metal pieces of different length to be placed upon bumpstops...
It's two sets of plastic blocks which don't match any of the "normal" height settings. Proper Testbook will read the sensors on one set of blocks, read the sensors on the other set of blocks, and calculate all sixteen values to suit from there.
We can do it with four sets of blocks although the shortest are too small to stick out of the bumpstops anyway. I only ever made up a set of motorway and normal height blocks which are from memory 85mm/90mm front/rear and 100mm/105mm respectively. I guess I could make up a set of four 40mm spacers to do extended height using the "normal" blocks.
My local garage doesn't charge for retests, or at least they haven't charged me for a retest. They are pretty reasonable about terrible old farm machinery though, and I tend to try and bring it back in as soon as possible for a retest. I guess if it failed on something "big" they'd want a bit more but it's never really failed on anything drastic.
No, I understand why there's a pair of relays, what I don't get is why they've wired the coil of one relay across the other half of the screen.
If the second relay took a second or two to pull in I could see it being wired that way to prevent suddenly thumping a 50A load onto the electrics but it's just a normal relay and pulls in quickly.
It's kind of not a "driver's car" but at the same time rather like the CX it's good fun to come howling out of a roundabout pulling away from something expensive, fast and German at a speed they can't even get close to with the tyres folded underneath and one tail light eighteen inches higher than the other ;-)
I find mine switches between 4th and 3rd pretty readily but takes a while to get its shit together to change down to 2nd when I select them manually.
Wonder why they do it that way? I could see it being worthwhile if RL4 was slugged so it took a second or two to pull in...
The tape measure method pretty much doesn't work and guarantees you're going to get softfaults all the time. Far better to make up a set of height blocks!
GeorgeB wrote:
Interesting discussion.
When I put mine back to EAS, anything over 50mph would drop it to the bump stops rather than highway. Jack up the front, clear the fault and back to normal, until the next time. After that it would randomly decide to lift to high but drop on the press of the button.
Does sound like a calibration issue...
The only fault showing on Nano is all four sensors out of range.
Played about for a bit with heights and it stopped randomly rising and all works fine but the sensor fault remains.
How did you set the heights?