Are they the same size as the ones in the heater matrix?

I heatwrapped my driver's side manifold but it has developed a blow when cold. It had a tiny crack in one of the flexi bits which has probably opened up.

It's like particularly evil loft insulation when you handle it.

So will it adapt itself back down or do I need to get a shot of some diagnostics to reset it?

Why's it got UK Police set?

As the title says, I changed out the rocker shafts and rockers for some second-hand but good ones (although all the rockers have die numbers that suggest they should have been replaced, the hardened pushrod seats haven't sunk). Everything's back together, and on startup it revs to about 1800rpm when cold and idles at about 900-1000rpm when warm.

The fact that it does eventually screw down the idle suggests that the idle stepper is working. It does the same on gas and petrol, with a little hunting on gas as it screws the mixture up and down (it's always done this). The throttle is returning to its stop, and there don't appear to be any manifold leaks.

Could it just be that the engine isn't auto-adapting to having its driver's side bank of cylinders having working valves? There's only about a quarter tank of fuel in, and I know that Martyuk has said that they disable auto-adaption below a certain level.

If it's leaking from "around" the valve block, chances are it's the non-return valve from the tank that's bleeding air out. With the silencer off, stick your finger over the hole and see if it builds pressure.

Throttle pot connected, MAF connected?

Both heaters faulty could be a manky supply connection to the ECU.

Can you tell me what version of Firefox you're on, and which OS?

Should be fixed now :-) blueplasticsoulman's online dot is under his username because his username is too long to fit the box :-)

— Often used to schedule power enrichment.

Mine sits at around 25% all the time, sometimes more, when the engine is idling. I wonder if that's why it's so bloody gutless between 2000 and 3000 revs, it's not sitting in the right parts of its fuelling and timing curves?

On closer inspection the right-as-you-look-towards-the-back side isn't all that bad but the left side is absolutely horrible, with one pushrod bucket almost completely worn away and the rocker shaft deeply scored. Bugger.

Mine doesn't appear to have rockers with the die codes mentioned in the TSB, but it does have a distinct clack and a bit of a miss.

The rockers are I think quite badly worn - when you try to turn them on the shaft there's a distinct "notch" as they go over the part they'd normally sit on. I reckon it's time for new rockers and shafts - any recommendations?

I'm going to be down in Bradford at the end of August, we should try and meet up. I'm sure you locals know of a few good green lanes to poke about in ;-)

Think the last time I bought a water pump was off GEMM, it was in a dreaded blue box but stamped Quinton Hazell on the casting.

Oh, and park it up in offroad height.

But remember to chock the suspension so it can't fall on you...

There's some on my facebook photos :-)

Yes yes yes, I need some way of uploading pics to the forum, heeeeard it.

Get the plugs out and have a look. Gap them down to 0.7mm. If there's any doubt at all about them, just stick in a new set. Likewise, if there's any doubt about the plug leads, stick in a new set. Especially on LPG these engines need a really decent spark.

Open up the head unit, lift the tape deck out, remove the little heatsink just to the left of it (three screws through the transistors on it) and resolder the big squarish surface-mount resistor, which will have cracked away at one end.

Jeez, considering how hard a time I had keeping up with you when you bought it, what sort of nick is my engine in... :-/